Finally got to the KV up and over hardware

Crazyraceguy

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Oct 16, 2015
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I mentioned this earlier, testing the method, but could not complete it at the time. The hardware they got me was too deep for the cabinet. Fast forward through a few days of other interruptions and waiting for the right ones. This morning was the right time. I meant to take a few more pics, but the main point shows.
I added some blocking to the sides to keep from blowing the edgebanging off. I cut them at 1 1/2" to make it simple to grid/reference.
I takes two different bits to make this profile. I cut the bottom flat with a 1/4" O-flute bit, then made a second pass with a 90 degree V-bit, right on the line. Two bits, two set-ups, and two doors, this took some time. I'm happy to have enough experience with the Shaper to feel comfortable with doing this type of thing.
I honestly don't know how I would have done this without it. I suppose a couple of templates, routers and bushings could get it done, but it would take a lot more work.
If I had more of these to do at once, I would probably reverse the set-up. Instead of putting the tape directly on the door and cutting with the pocket close to me, I would put the tape out onto a wider fixture board and then just slide each door into it, cutting on the far side of the door. This would mean gridding only once, rather than each time.

I really don't know how the manufacturer intends this to be done? They give you a diagram, with all of the details/dimensions you need, but that's it. Maybe they assume CNC? but that's not particularly apparent in the documentation and takes it right out of the hands of many. It's not exactly homeowner type hardware, but still.....
 

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In lieu of using a CNC, I'd just make an "L" shaped MDF template offset to suit the template ring cutter and do a 45deg pass then a straight.
 
luvmytoolz said:
In lieu of using a CNC, I'd just make an "L" shaped MDF template offset to suit the template ring cutter and do a 45deg pass then a straight.

Yes, my thought too, but the diameter difference and resulting off-set requirement would be a challenge.
The V bit I used was fairly large, 1" I think? So, you would need a collar/bushing bigger than that, then work out the off-set to make the centerline of it hit the OD line of the bottom cleaning bit.
Also, cutting the V first is a lot more load on the machine than cutting the flat first and the just beveling back the sides.
You would also need to make it flip-over or make two in opposite directions.
 
It's funny as i have this exact issue right now with some massive door stop blocks I'm making, that I need to use a 32mm diameter vee cutter to remove a curved piece of material at the top and bottom edges of a large 3D machined surface. I'll be working out the offsets and machining a curved slot in some MDF for the template guide to follow.

I'd normally do this on the CNC but the blocks are "freeform" and I don't want to stuff up the alignment, so a template will be perfect to get manually placed repeatable results for me. And it'll allow me to sneak up on the cut until I'm happy with how it looks.
 
That's the beauty of the Origin method. I must have been off a little on either my gridding or placement with the second cut-out? It was about 1mm (.040"ish) too low and out. Just adding some off-set cured it in seconds.
 
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