I'm building an Arts and Crafts, white oak rocker. I like a classic finish, but I'm neither experienced nor inclined to go to much trouble finishing. I usually just wipe on some poly and call it done, but I know this white oak would look really nice with some kind of stain on it to bring out the figure in the wood. What can I do that's quick and easy, but does white oak, some justice?
Finish For White Oak Rocker?
- Thread starter darita
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thebicyclecafe
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darita said:
I prefer using a dye or dye stain, with a coat of amber shellac, and topcoat of choice.
Check this out if you are interested in the classic white oak arts and crafts/mission style look.
http://www.homesteadfinishingproducts.com/pdf/mission_oak_rev1-2011.pdf
deepcreek
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darita said:
That's exactly how I used to think but the truth is finishing is the other half of woodworking. The woodworking skills and effort required to build the rocking chair are substantial and likewise there is not a fast & easy way to a great finish.
I would recommend that you study Jeff Jewitt's mission oak protocol at Homestead Finishing. It's a lot of work but produces amazing results that will do the wood and your workmanship justice.
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It depends on the tone you want to go for. If you want some color, I like gel stain on oak. Very user friendly, easy to apply and nice finish. If you want to stay more on the blonde side of the spectrum, ZAR makes nice waterborne clears.
There are lots of options. It will depend on the level you want to go to. I have "overstained" oak with great results as well, by putting a base of Bullseye shellac and a wiping stain over that, and then clear over the top for protection and depth.
The possibilities are endless. Embrace finishing! So many wood craftsmen do phenomenal work and then don't do it justice on the finish end. That is the sensory experience of how your piece will be appreciated (how it looks and feels), how it will age and gain tone depth over time, and of course durability and protection.
Finishing is not really as complicated as it was ten years ago.
There are lots of options. It will depend on the level you want to go to. I have "overstained" oak with great results as well, by putting a base of Bullseye shellac and a wiping stain over that, and then clear over the top for protection and depth.
The possibilities are endless. Embrace finishing! So many wood craftsmen do phenomenal work and then don't do it justice on the finish end. That is the sensory experience of how your piece will be appreciated (how it looks and feels), how it will age and gain tone depth over time, and of course durability and protection.
Finishing is not really as complicated as it was ten years ago.
Thanks for the replies. The Homestead article was just what I needed. I will likely do the sealer, then New Pine stain, with a a satin Arm R Seal over that. I think its very natural looking, yet brings out lots of the figure in the wood.
I guess right now I'm so consumed with the building, that the finishing is just an afterthought. I've even got a good 4 stage HVLP that's been sitting unused for years. It's a shame I know and I keep saying, "Someday....someday..."
I guess right now I'm so consumed with the building, that the finishing is just an afterthought. I've even got a good 4 stage HVLP that's been sitting unused for years. It's a shame I know and I keep saying, "Someday....someday..."
phmade
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A few years ago I built a table out of white oak and fumed it with Ammonia. I then top coated it with some wipe on poly. It has continued to patina and its my favorite piece of furniture. The look of a fumed table is something special and it's really easy to do. I've heard a lot of people shy away from it because Ammonia is dangerous but if you use the some basic safety practices it's fine. Good luck! Feel free to PM me if you want details on fuming with Ammonia.
phmade
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I figured I'd post my fuming process on here so it's available for everyone.
A couple of really important notes:
#1) Always make sure your work is completely sanded before you fume - sanding after fuming is very obvious and required re-sanding the entire piece.
#2) Always wear safety GOGGLES, long sleeves, and chemical resistant gloves when handling 100% ammonia. It's best to just be careful and not get any on your hands and always work outside or in a well-ventilated space.
Ok - now for the process:
I purchase 100% ammonia from an architectural supply store. This type of ammonia is used in old blueprint machines and they'll know what you need. I don't believe it's anhydrous ammonia as many people often believe. It should be less than $30 for a gallon.
I put a plastic tent (any relatively thick plastic will work) around the work without any plastic touching the workpiece. I just used old barstools to build my "tent" and then set heavy timbers around the end to enclose it. It does not need to be air-tight but try to minimize leakage. Again - make sure you're outside.
Then I just pour about 1/4" of ammonia into a pan or two - one will be fine for your rocking chair and then slide the pan into your plastic tent next to your rocker. Your rocking chair should be set up on nails or something so it's not sitting on the runners.
That's it! Now you just wait until your chair is the color you want. The longer you leave it in the tent, the darker it will get. I usually leave a few scraps inside the tent and I pull one out every 45 minutes to check the color. When you're done just carefully pour the ammonia back in it's container and store it safely. You can just put any finish over the wood now like normal. I would definitely avoid water based finished because you'll have to sand the grain back down and you don't want to sand over the fumed oak.
Good luck!
A couple of really important notes:
#1) Always make sure your work is completely sanded before you fume - sanding after fuming is very obvious and required re-sanding the entire piece.
#2) Always wear safety GOGGLES, long sleeves, and chemical resistant gloves when handling 100% ammonia. It's best to just be careful and not get any on your hands and always work outside or in a well-ventilated space.
Ok - now for the process:
I purchase 100% ammonia from an architectural supply store. This type of ammonia is used in old blueprint machines and they'll know what you need. I don't believe it's anhydrous ammonia as many people often believe. It should be less than $30 for a gallon.
I put a plastic tent (any relatively thick plastic will work) around the work without any plastic touching the workpiece. I just used old barstools to build my "tent" and then set heavy timbers around the end to enclose it. It does not need to be air-tight but try to minimize leakage. Again - make sure you're outside.
Then I just pour about 1/4" of ammonia into a pan or two - one will be fine for your rocking chair and then slide the pan into your plastic tent next to your rocker. Your rocking chair should be set up on nails or something so it's not sitting on the runners.
That's it! Now you just wait until your chair is the color you want. The longer you leave it in the tent, the darker it will get. I usually leave a few scraps inside the tent and I pull one out every 45 minutes to check the color. When you're done just carefully pour the ammonia back in it's container and store it safely. You can just put any finish over the wood now like normal. I would definitely avoid water based finished because you'll have to sand the grain back down and you don't want to sand over the fumed oak.
Good luck!
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