Finishing Drawer Box

[grbmds]

When finishing a drawer box on a piece of furniture, what is the most common practice when the rest of the piece is stained? . . .

Finish the drawer box with both the same stain and poly to match the rest of the piece?

Leave the drawer box natural and skip the stain; just finish it with the poly?

In this case the drawer box will be white oak; the same as the rest of the piece.

 

[Billedis]

I leave mine natural, and use briwax instead of poly.  I have had things stick to the poly even when I thought it was cured.  With the briwax, nothing sticks to it.  I usually do two coats and use 0000 steel wool as the applicator.

Bill

 

[grbmds]

I leave mine natural, and use briwax instead of poly.  I have had things stick to the poly even when I thought it was cured.  With the briwax, nothing sticks to it.  I usually do two coats and use 0000 steel wool as the applicator.

Bill

[member=27901]Billedis[/member] How "permanent" is the Briwax? Is it something that needs to be reapplied periodically or is it more of a long-term finish like poly?

 

[Billedis]

[member=19734]grbmds[/member]

I did it in my wife's sewing room cabinets about 4 years ago, and it is still in good shape.  About 3 years ago I put it in a friends bedroom closet, and it is still holding up.  I sand to 150 then apply the two coats.

I just finished a kitchen cabinet group for a friend and used it in all the drawers as well.

Bill

 

[grbmds]

I leave mine natural, and use briwax instead of poly.  I have had things stick to the poly even when I thought it was cured.  With the briwax, nothing sticks to it.  I usually do two coats and use 0000 steel wool as the applicator.

Bill

[member=27901]Billedis[/member] Because I've never had any problems with poly (water or oil based), I was wondering what the poly was and did it soften after being "cured" or cause the sticking in hot, humid weather? Sometimes it take awhile to cure, depending on temperature and humidity, but once it's dry it's dry.