Finishing wood to a higher gloss with the RO 150 FEQ

[James1]

I have finished a walnut veneer with 3 coats of Varathane Professional Clear Gloss. I am wondering if can use the RO 150 to increase gloss and rid the final coat of a few dust nibs in the process? What would an RO expert suggest, as I am new to the range of this machine's capabilities.
Thanks to the members.
 

 

[mwhafner]

I haven't tried it on poly, but sheepskin and felt pad to a great job of buffing out lacquers. 

 

[Neill]

James -

You might also try the Platin sanding pads.  You can get them in 400-500-100-2000-4000 grits.  I have used them on poly and water based latex.  They provide a very fine finish.  Just go easy with your sander.

Neill

 

[jaegerhund]

Are you a total newbie at rubbing out a finish or do you just want suggestions for the RO 150?

Justin

 

[James1]

Hi Justin F. I am the former; a total newbie at rubbing out a finish. Thanks for your interest. Hope to hear your opinion.
Thanks to the other members who responded. I appreciate your suggestions.

 

[jaegerhund]

Well you started out with a "high" gloss finish which is a good starting step as semi-gloss, satin, etc tend to not be as hard when fully cured (that's what people tell me).  A hard curing finish is easier to rub out than a not so hard finish, mostly because rubbing out a finish entails a process of scratching the surface with an abrasive --- you can imagine that a hard surface can be scratched more uniformly than a soft (gooey or plastic-like) one ---- so a process of replacing scratches with finer and finer scratches is what you will be doing as you move up the abrasives ladder (fine to finer grits). 

I can send you some PDF's on the matter if you would like.

I haven't used a the Rotex to finish a finish but the Platin or Brilliant starting at around 320 grit might work ---  the idea in the beginning is to get as uniform, level, and flat of a surface as possible --- makes it a lot easier as you move up the grits.  Watch out for edges and varnish does not form a uniform, mono-layer when its cured (each coat that you apply remains discrete) so if you rub through the top coat(s) you will see "witness lines" in your finish.

Check out Per Swenson's article (PDF) Sanding Bar Top here:http://www.swensonz.com/  (under Reviews and Instructions) --- I think he uses a Rotex to finish out the finish.

Justin

 

[Neill]

James -

You might like to refer to any of Jeff Jewitt's books on finishing.  He tells you all about rubbing out finishes using sanding, steel wool, pumice and rottenstone.  He also tells you how to achieve the finish you want and what products to use.

He also has a website under Homestead Finishes (I believe, I know it is Homestead something...).  Great free advise in plain English from an expert.

Neill

 

[James1]

Justin F.
Thanks for the information and the link. I'll accept any pdf's from which you think I would benefit. You are very helpful and I appreciate your efforts.
James

 

[James1]

Neill,
Thanks for the leads. I'll do some tracking, now, after your help. You are appreciated.
James

 

[woodshopdemos]

another late answer but:http://www.woodshopdemos.com/trays-13.htm

 

[James1]

Dear Woodshopdemos,
Thank-you so much for the illustrated technique and informative product information. 
You have put a shine on my face with your glossy great gift  to me and the forum.
John, I have been to your site many times and have learned alot from you and your demonstrations.
I never thought I would be helped by you; the woodworking celebrity that I consider you to be.
THANKS.
James1

 

[Woodenfish]

James1, What exactly is Varathane Professional Clear Gloss? Is that a polyurethane finish?

If so, from my understanding polyurethane finishes are difficult to rub out and get a consistent sheen.

 

[James1]

Dear Woodenfish,
You were right to assume that the finish is an oil based polyurethane. Like you, I have heard that a poly is not friendly to rubbing. I'm not sure why; hardness and layers maybe? Any ideas or alternatives are welcome, if your time permits.
Thanks for the interest, Woodenfish.
James1

 

[Woodenfish]

Just how large is the area that needs polishing? Remember I said it was difficult, but I didn't say it was impossible. How old is the finish coat?

 

[jaegerhund]

Behlens Rockhard Varnish is a good varnish if you want to rub it out.

Justin

 

[James1]

Dear Woodenfish,
The finish has cured about 3 weeks. The area is about three and a half square feet.
Thanks,
James1

 

[James1]

Dear Justin,
Thanks for the tip on Behlens Varnish.
James1

 

[Woodenfish]

James1, Depending on the ambient temperature over those last three weeks you might need to wait another 1 to 3 weeks before attempting to polish the finish. Woodshopdemos link looks real good.

 

[KM]

Hi James,

The poly can be rubbed and polished using the rotex. The key like woodenfish said is to make sure it's completely cured. I'd make sure I put it somewhere warm for a couple more weeks.

As a newbie woodworker I read all 3 articles on rubbing out a finish. With a little practice it really works well. I would start by reading J Jewitt's article (the links is: http://www.homesteadfinishing.com/htdocs/rubbingout.htm ) then read John's (woodshopdemos) and Per's. After that, get some platin and start rubbing!!!

Hope this helps.

Ken

ps. I found out the hard way not to start out with the piece you want to finish. Practice the process on some test pieces first, it really is more art than technical form. This is the point when you can appreciate what John and Per create.

 

[James1]

Hi Woodenfish.
Thanks for your expertise of this last stage of my project and your evaluation of the Woodshopdemo. Much APPRECIATED.
James1