First Frame

[DavidCBaker]

I made my first frame today and had a lot of fun doing it! I'm still a newbie, so be gentle if you see me doing something stupid--but do please point it out.  ;D

I documented the process for my own sake and for any other newbie who wants to experiment.

I started with a piece of poplar from Lowes:

Then pulled both cars out of the garage and wheeled things into place:

I ended up using four different bits, just inventing the sort of look I wanted. First was a cove bit:

Setting the speed to 2 of 6 worked well with such a large bit and the resulting tip speed:

Then it was time to use the second bit, a plunge ovolo:

?yielding this look:

Then I flipped the board around and used the router on the other side so that I'd have enough to make the frame:

Then it was time for the plunge saw:

Here's what it looked like after cutting it to width:

You have to angle the miter clamp like this to allow the saw to slide all the way back:

Then I decided to clamp two pieces together and miter cut them in that stacked configuration just to make sure that the opposite sides were exactly the same length:

Then glue and clamping:

After about 30 minutes, I took the clamp off and cleaned the excess glue up with a scraper:

Next I used the third bit, a beading bit on the outside edge:

Then it was a rabbet bit on the inside edges as an offset for the glass and print:

Finally, it was time to sand with the ETS 125, first using 150 and then 220 grit:

Overall I was pleased! I'd do a few things differently, but I'm learning:

Thanks to each of you for the sound suggestions.

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

Looks nice.

Side note:

You park cars in there?  I couldn't park anything I own in a space that nice.

How long did you have to hide all those toys, er...tools from the wife?

I am not much of a wood worker.

 

[harry_]

Overall I was pleased! I'd do a few things differently, but I'm learning:

David,

Nice job!

I know what I would have done differently, but what would you do differently?

 

[DavidCBaker]

Yep, two cars are in there right now. All the sysports roll over into a corner. It's just RaceDeck:

http://www.racedeck.com

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

Yep, two cars are in there right now. All the sysports roll over into a corner. It's just RaceDeck:

http://www.racedeck.com

Yeah but, everything I own leaks some sort of fluid.

Nice job on the pictures and the write up as well!!

 

[Corwin]

I made my first frame today and had a lot of fun doing it! I'm still a newbie, so be gentle if you see me doing something stupid--but do please point it out.  ;D
...
Then pulled both cars out of the garage and wheeled things into place:

Thanks to each of you for the sound suggestions.

Well, this looks like your first mistake -- wheeling out a dozen Systainer Ports before you can begin work.  Sheesh, you really need to find another spot for those cars.  Think of the time savings.  [big grin]

 

[DavidCBaker]

I know what I would have done differently, but what would you do differently?

1. Used a router table (I don't have one yet).

2. Used a thickness planer before everything. The pieces were not of equal thickness, and I didn't discover that until I was gluing them.

3. Just bought one at Target--saving time and money.  [big grin]

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

I made my first frame today and had a lot of fun doing it! I'm still a newbie, so be gentle if you see me doing something stupid--but do please point it out.  ;D
...
Then pulled both cars out of the garage and wheeled things into place:

Thanks to each of you for the sound suggestions.

Well, this looks like your first mistake -- wheeling out a dozen Systainer Ports before you can begin work.  Sheesh, you really need to find another spot for those cars.  Think of the time savings.   [big grin]

That was too funny!!

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

I know what I would have done differently, but what would you do differently?

1. Used a router table (I don't have one yet).

2. Used a thickness planer before everything. The pieces were not of equal thickness, and I didn't discover that until I was gluing them.

3. Just bought one at Target--saving time and money.  [big grin]

1.  I think you did fine with a hand held router.

2.  Welcome to buying S4S lumber from a box store.  ( surfaced and sanded 4 sides)
I don't own a planer but, I have a good sized mill shop down the street.
I can get really nice S4S lumber from them at great prices, almost makes it not worth buying a planer for home.
I can get a bunch of different species and what ever thickness I need.

 

[DavidCBaker]

I have the DeWalt planer--just didn't think I'd need to use it. Next time, I'll mic the thickness to see if it varies. I'm giving myself a dope slap for not doing that.

Oh well--a sander hides a multitude of evil.

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

All that lumber like that from a box store has chatter marks and all sorts of ugly all over them.

 

[Rob-GB]

David, I would have done all the routing before cutting the mitres.

Reasons:  1/ the rebate would end up as a square corner, not requireing any chisel work. Glass is usually cut square.
                2/ the finished section allows for it to be marked for size on the back face and cut face down on the Kapex, also less chance of break out in the face mouldings.
                3/ A larger project may prove to be unwieldy to move about to route later.

This is not a critisism, that is a fine frame, and you used the great technique of running the moulds on a wide board then cutting off to width, not often seen done by a newbie!  [big grin]

Rob.

 

[harry_]

all the things you have mentioned looked fine to me from the pictures. However I would have done the rabbets with the rest of the general milling to eliminate the rounded inside corner.

I would think that if you had good alignment on the face of all your mitres, MINOR differences in thickness would not matter terribly as you could `push it` to the backside and sand the difference off and no one would be the wiser. For me, anything 1/16 or under is not worth the trouble of busting out my lunch box....... that's why I have a Rotex [laughing]

Again, nice job!

 

[image132]

Wow your workshop looks amazing, almost enough to make me cry. I just think you need to put some labels on your systainers, how do you tell what is in what?

Your frame looks great, from the pictures you can't tell that the wood is of different thicknesses, how far off were they?

What kind of clamp was that one you used to hold the frame together? I make box mounts in my spare time and I would love to buy something like that as I struggle with holding all four ends together.

 

[DavidCBaker]

1/ the rebate would end up as a square corner, not requireing any chisel work. Glass is usually cut square.
                 2/ the finished section allows for it to be marked for size on the back face and cut face down on the Kapex, also less chance of break out in the face mouldings.
                 3/ A larger project may prove to be unwieldy to move about to route later.

Excellent, Rob! Just the sort of instruction I'm looking for. Much obliged.

 

[DavidCBaker]

Wow your workshop looks amazing, almost enough to make me cry. I just think you need to put some labels on your systainers, how do you tell what is in what?

Your frame looks great, from the pictures you can't tell that the wood is of different thicknesses, how far off were they?

What kind of clamp was that one you used to hold the frame together? I make box mounts in my spare time and I would love to buy something like that as I struggle with holding all four ends together.

Chris, all the containers are labeled so it's quick to find things. Can you tell from looking at the workshop that OCD is my constant companion?  [tongue]

The wood was about 1/32 off in thickness.

That clamp is made by Bessey, and it works very well. You can see it here. It's only $35.

 

[ajones]

Wow your workshop looks amazing, almost enough to make me cry. I just think you need to put some labels on your systainers, how do you tell what is in what?

Your frame looks great, from the pictures you can't tell that the wood is of different thicknesses, how far off were they?

What kind of clamp was that one you used to hold the frame together? I make box mounts in my spare time and I would love to buy something like that as I struggle with holding all four ends together.

Chris, all the containers are labeled so it's quick to find things. Can you tell from looking at the workshop that OCD is my constant companion?  [tongue]

The wood was about 1/32 off in thickness.

That clamp is made by Bessey, and it works very well. You can see it here. It's only $35.

I think that is  common amongst festool users.so you are in good company [big grin]

 

[marrt]

Holy Crap! look at all those Sysports.  [eek]  You should make something will all that stuff.

EDIT:  Sorry, I see you are making something in this thread.  Didn't notice that the first time due to the Festool envy. 

 

[image132]

Wow your workshop looks amazing, almost enough to make me cry. I just think you need to put some labels on your systainers, how do you tell what is in what?

Your frame looks great, from the pictures you can't tell that the wood is of different thicknesses, how far off were they?

What kind of clamp was that one you used to hold the frame together? I make box mounts in my spare time and I would love to buy something like that as I struggle with holding all four ends together.

Chris, all the containers are labeled so it's quick to find things. Can you tell from looking at the workshop that OCD is my constant companion?  [tongue]

The wood was about 1/32 off in thickness.

That clamp is made by Bessey, and it works very well. You can see it here. It's only $35.

I think that is  common amongst festool users.so you are in good company [big grin]

Agreed. Your workshop is pretty close to my dream one. One day I'll get there.

Thanks for the advice on the clamp.

 

[Wood_Junkie]

WOWOWOW What a workshop!!    [drooling]

How do you expect to become a creative, resourceful woodworker starting with the best tools on the market?  How the heck are you going to learn the true value of guide rail system, if you haven't used a Black and Decker saw against a (not-so) straight-edge???  A router with a smooth and precise plunge... mannnn...  Ssheesh, the nerve of some newbies!    [wink]  [tongue]

A very nice walk through David.

The only thing I'd suggest different is to consider a Domino in the miter joint to add some strength.  I rout the rabbet the same as you: after assembly.  A corner chisel cleans that up with two whacks.  I just like know the rabbet is the same depth all the way around.  Good setup prior to assembly would have the same result, but....

If you plan on making bunches of frames, you might put together a simple clamping jig for your MFTs... Use clamping elements to provide pressure against a MFT fence or what-not.  Or even using the MFS profiles (if you have 'em).