First time using my new RO125

[rdesigns]

Probably nothing new here--just amazement at how well it did on sanding/grinding down the top of my old workbench.
The top is about 30" x  72", vertical grain douglas fir with a linseed oil finish along with grime, grit, etc.--a perfect combination for clogging multiple disks.
I started with the coarsest grit Rubin disk that came with the tool--looked like maybe 30 or 36 grit, and used the rotary mode.
I found that I needed to really dominate the tool, that is, grip it firmly and use enough muscle power to direct the tool, but just a couple minutes' use and I had the feel for it.
It worked quickly without any dust at all escaping. (Connected to my CT26.)

The most amazing part to me was that when I was finished with that first disk, having sanded down to new, bare wood, and ready to change to finer grits, the disk appeared new--NO clogging, and the grit particles appeared just as sharp and distinct as new. This, I attribute to Festool's hole pattern and airflow that runs the disk cool and clean. The savings on disks will be substantial over time, and makes it plain to me that Festool disks are a genuine bargain.

The pain of the initial cost of an RO125 is almost gone.  [wink]

 

[Tinker]

I have the RO 150.  I bought it with a soft pad and used it for a year or two for many projects.
i made a small lazy susan with a center section of very hard locust with a knot in the center.  radiating out from the center piece were four quarter pieces of red oak and white pine.  When I started sanding, it did not take long to find i was really gouging into the pine way before i was even bothering the oak and locust.  I sent an SOS here to the FOG and somebody suggested I might change pads and go to a harder pad.

What a difference.  I had not realized i could get pads of varying hardness.  The soft pad was allowing the paper to follow path of least resistance.  The hard pad was allowing the paper to stay flat.

I also was using Rubin paper for roughing sanding from 60 up to about 100 grit and then switching to, I think, Crystal and Brilliant for finer sanding.  I recently brought home a pack of Granat 60 grit and what a difference.  That seemed much faster than the Rubin 60 i had been using.  I only have the one grit in Granat, but will try some of the finer grits up to 100.  Above 100, I have already smoothed the wood defects and work defects.  From there on up, I don't think i need either Rubin or Granat. I am sure others here can give you a better rundown on what grits to use for what operation.  the most important finding for me was to switch to the hard pad for heavy sanding, especially if there are varying hardness to the woods being sanded.

If the RO 125 is your first Festool sander, be very careful.  you have just stepped onto a very slippery slope.
Tinker

 

[live4ever]

I would agree whole-heartedly with Tinker on the hard pad thing.  I made sure to get a hard pad on both my RO90 and ETS150 and it makes a big difference.  I never would have thought that it would, and it does sting to buy additional pads when you've purchased such an expensive sander, but I purchased them after reading comments here and glad I did.

 

[score0matic]

The fine folks at Festool may want to consider making the Hard pad a default ....then again they would not get the extra$$$ that folks spend on "upgrades" [wink]

 

[rdesigns]

I would agree whole-heartedly with Tinker on the hard pad thing.  I made sure to get a hard pad on both my RO90 and ETS150 and it makes a big difference.  I never would have thought that it would, and it does sting to buy additional pads when you've purchased such an expensive sander, but I purchased them after reading comments here and glad I did.

I will be at a Woodcraft store next week where I will compare the hardness of the standard pad with the hard one. It seems to me that the standard pad is quite hard, but the posts here have got me wondering...
I have been thinking about getting a soft pad for sculpted chair bottoms, but my limited experience with the RO125 has not prompted me to consider a hard pad.

 

[greenMonster]

I could imagine hypothetically someone using the hard pad out of the box getting mad because it's not sanding "everything" due to there being undulations in the wood...

Medium I could imagine makes the most amount of people happy...or should I say least unhappy lol

 

[TomGadwa1]

It is one heck of a sander. Just be careful to not put too much pressure onto the pad. I did this and actually melted some paper to the hooks and loops. Needless to say I had some difficulty removing the worn and torn and melted through paper. Now I tend to let the weight of the sander and the paper do the work as recommended in the instructions. A great machine if used properly.

 

[Stone Message]

For wood I use either Rubin 2 or Granat. The Granat is really tough and lasts a long time. I saw a demo of the correct use of a Rotex and now do rotary followed by random sanding with each grade as I work to my final smooth finish. I also saw the Surfix system demonstarted and think that it is a great way to finish wood for both interior and exterior items.

Peter

 

[rdesigns]

For wood I use either Rubin 2 or Granat. The Granat is really tough and lasts a long time. I saw a demo of the correct use of a Rotex and now do rotary followed by random sanding with each grade as I work to my final smooth finish. Peter

That's an interesting 2-step process--I'll try it next time. Thanks.

 

[evanism]

It's true that you need to keep a very firm hand on it.  It's a beast that wants to escape.

I've also turned my ct33 right down to low, otherwise it sucks the RO right onto the work like a suction cup.  I've also found, unlike other RO sanders that it likes to be listed a few degrees.

I replaced a ryobi after it wore out and another AEG with this one.  What a HUGE difference. HUGE.  It's an absolute pleasure to use and as reported here, the pads last many multiples longer than ANY of the other pads I've used with other tools.

As far as the Rubin, chrystal and other sandpapers go, I'm still trying to understand them all. They are VERY expensive here in Australia ($100 for 50 pack compared to $22 in the US) so mistakes are costly.....

 

[semenza]

Rotex and now do rotary followed by random sanding with each grade as I work to my final smooth finish.

Peter

I switch to random orbit after I use  rotary  with the same grit also. I generally only use the rotary for one grit and then follow with random orbit for all the rest simply because  the material  removal is usually taken care of by the first grit. But I definetly found that switching modes with that same first grit helps get rid of the rotary marks very well.

Seth

 

[mouppe]

Rotex and now do rotary followed by random sanding with each grade as I work to my final smooth finish.

Peter

I switch to random orbit after I use  rotary  with the same grit also. I generally only use the rotary for one grit and then follow with random orbit for all the rest simply because  the material  removal is usually taken care of by the first grit. But I definetly found that switching modes with that same first grit helps get rid of the rotary marks very well.

Seth

Strange, I have never found that to be the case (and I have tried it out). I go up to 180 in rotex mode, then switch to random orbit mode. When I start polishing I switch back to rotex mode.

 

[Stone Message]

Hi Richard

Somewhere you should find a short video that I did after I saw a Festool demo at a show. I tried their technique and it works for me.

Peter