Fix a crack in door frame?

[threesixright]

Hi!

While they guys where removing some concrete around the door frame, they accidentally hit the horizontal lower beam (not sure what to call that: rail ? foot?) of my sliding doorframe, which caused a crack in the wood  [crying] See photo.

What would be the best way to repair this?
1. blow the debirs out
2. add some titebond 3
3. clamp it up
4. shoot few pins in it

The crack is about 300 mm (~ 1 ft) long.

Probably there is a better approach?

Much obliged!

--
Rog

 

[AlexThePalex]

Woodglue + putty + paint.

 

[threesixright]

Woodglue + putty + paint.

Thanks Alex!

 

[Sparktrician]

Woodglue + putty + paint.

Thanks Alex!

Given the location, I'd choose Titebond III for its water resistance, pins for sure, and as Alex suggested, putty and paint.

 

[Cheese]

You could also use some epoxy. I did that with some veneer that was peeling off of the front of an outside door.

 

[RKA]

Another option is to remove that piece if it's trim and nail in a new piece.  So I would ask you since I don't have enough detail.  Is there a reason you wouldn't replace before you go down the path of fixing what you have?

 

[Svar]

Another option is Polyurethane glue (for example "Gorilla" brand). It is water resistant and expands before curing. It fills small voids and goes into tiny cracks that you won't be able to fill otherwise.

 

[sancho57]

2 part epoxy putty, very very strong can get it to match the color of the stain.
https://woodrepairproducts.com/product/epoxy-putty-stick/

use it to fill over sized hinge screw holes in door jamb, can be drilled and stronger than the base material, sanded smooth to

 

[mcooley]

I like using West System G/Flex Epoxy probably the thicker one they make for your application. Pretty sure the 655 is the thicker one more honey like consistency than the other they make which is runnier. It allows for some expansion and contraction etc. Very strong and simple 1:1 ratio to mix.

 

[threesixright]

A big thank you to all the responses!

I went down the "titebond 3" road.

Whats not clear on the picture, is that this part of the door frame will be below the (new to be installed) deck. Against this wood there will be placed some asphalt foil (part of making it waterproof).  Since it will be not visible. I will just fill it with some putty, sand and a bit of paint.

Once again, thank you  [thumbs up]

 

[Jiggy Joiner]

As much as I’m not keen on filler, a more durable, possibly belt and braces fix would be: To glue and clamp the cill/threshold together using waterproof glue or two part resin, pilot drill and counter bore the top section along the top, then screw together and leave until the glue sets.
Then either fill the counter bores ready to sand, or use tapered wooden plugs, cut flush with a chisel, then finish read for paint etc.

 

[sancho57]

what I like about threads like this it shows there are many different ways to correct the same problem illl would work