Fix? Replace? Replace with what?

SoonerFan

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Jan 27, 2014
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My nearly 12 year old TS55 has started to noticeably blog down cutting sheet goods.  It did this once before.  Last time, I sent it in and paid for a repair.  Now I am wondering what to do.  Send it in again?  Last time Festool said the issue was caused by a faulty plug-it cord.  I replaced the plug-it cord with a new one I had from another tool.  No other tool had an issue last time or this time.  I use the same cord for every tool I use with the CT36.

Should I just get a new track saw since mine is nearly 12 years old and is having this issue for the second time?  If so I could the TSC55 to get rid of the cord/hose and just use the dust bag.  Or I could get the TS60.  I am mostly shop base so the cord  and hose are not huge issues. But I definitely see advantages of going cordless since I have several 18V Festool batteries and chargers from other tools.

 
Personally, I'm not a fan of the TS 55 track saw, I purchased a TSC 55 and it was far more powerful than a TS 55. I then purchased a TSC 55 K and it was more powerful yet. Heck, I even thought that the HKC with one battery was more powerful than the TS 55.

My choice...for cordless is the TSC 55 K and for corded the MT 55 because of all the really nice user-friendly features. It is the MB of small track saws.  [smile]
 
I will check the brushes but at last check these were fine.

Cheese, thanks for the input.  Seems in this case cordless equals power and convenience.

I use the heavier gauge plug-it cord all the time.  I leave it attached to my CT.
 
usernumber1 said:
check the gauge of your cord, i think not all plug-it cords are the same

That is true but just to note ...........................  the lighter gauge cords have a different shape key  and won't plug into a tool that needs the heavier.

The heavier gauge will plug into all the tools.

Seth
 
I think Festool uses self destructing brushes on all the bigger machines so they continue to function normally until they suddenly stop. At that point a spring loaded nylon pin buried in the brush erupts and pushes the graphite well away from the commutator.

If you think it is a power path problem and changing cords doesn’t help you can change the plug-it socket in the tool. They should still be available.

Or you can replace the socket with a long cord. Maybe you can find an ATF 55 cord or a cord from the RAS 115 or the big plane (can6recall the number). I was going to suggest getting a cord from the TS 60 but I can find a phot of how/where the cord enters the tool  [embarassed] LOOKS LIKE festool is sensitive to the fact that the TS 60 isn’t cordless.

If the above doesn’t work I second Cheese’s advice.
 
Personally, I don't like the sound of the TSC55. It has a pitchy noise that is just the wrong frequency for me. It's not that it's loud, just annoying. I have run my TS55 daily for nearly 5 years, with no issues.
I added the TS60 and it has become the daily. Now the 55 is relegated to cutting solid surface or metal laminate. That is not daily, but still more often than I prefer  [unsure]

In a shop environment, I would stay with corded and a CT. The TS60 is great, you won't regret it.
If you do lean toward the cordless, do yourself a favor and test it at the dealer. The sound is very different from your regular TS55.
If it's all about price, I think the TSC is available without batteries, so....
 
Michael Kellough said:
Maybe you can find an ATF 55 cord or LOOKS LIKE festool is sensitive to the fact that the TS 60 isn’t cordless.

Michael, Thanks for the reminder the TS60 has an attached cord.  That is a bummer for me.

[member=58857]Crazyraceguy[/member] thanks for the heads up on the sound.  I will listen before I buy.  But now remembering the TS60 is corded I lean toward the TSC.
 
Cheese said:
Personally, I'm not a fan of the TS 55 track saw, I purchased a TSC 55 and it was far more powerful than a TS 55. I then purchased a TSC 55 K and it was more powerful yet. Heck, I even thought that the HKC with one battery was more powerful than the TS 55.

My choice...for cordless is the TSC 55 K and for corded the MT 55 because of all the really nice user-friendly features. It is the MB of small track saws.  [smile]

I bought the MT 55 cordless after having owned the MT 55 corded for 5+ years. After sitting on the fence thinking about I can easily attest the cordless saw was my best purchase ever. Either way you go you cannot go wrong.
 
[member=652]JimH2[/member] aren't you fairly limited as far as track lengths with Mafell?
That may not matter to some people, but I couldn't be without those long ones.

[member=28223]SoonerFan[/member] There is a work-around for the cord. They can be converted to Plug-it, but it may compromise your warranty. Theoretically, you could have a problem that wasn't related to the electronics and they shouldn't be able to deny the claim but I wouldn't bet on it.
 
The rail connector is significantly better and requires zero futzing to get to connect rails perfectly straight so have a single long rail is not necessary other than convenience. That said I have several rails including the F210 which just under 7’.

One thing to consider on the Mafell rails is the entire rail is usable due to its design.

As for the plug it conversion, I thought it was something I wanted to do when I got to saw, but decided to hold off and in the end it makes no difference. I have a three-way splitter connected to my vacuum and leave the MT 55 plugged in or whatever other tool I am using. The plug it is what I call a nice to have feature, but the trade-off is a crappy cord. The Mafell cord is super flexible. I don’t know why Festool does not use the same cord material.

I am in deep on both brands with a preference for Mafell if they offer an equivalent tool. The exception to this is the DuoDoweller. I bought one after having used the Domino for several years and within a few weeks I sold my Domino. The trigger for me to buy it was being sick of fussing with the LR 32 kit shelf pin holes which is a second use of the tool. To do it, you will need to purchase a template or two but the good news is they can be used for joinery as well without requiring measurements. 
 
[member=652]JimH2[/member] I get what you are saying, but I may swap between several tools at any one time. For me, the ability to do it right at the tool is hugely valuable. Then comes storage. I put my tools away, back into the Systainer, when I think I'm done (or at least the end of the day). Not having to deal with the cable is fantastic. The RAS115 is a hiccup in this. I wish you could still buy the tool end fitting for attachment to a cord. I would shorten that cord, down to a few inches. I hoped they were going to update this, when it got discontinued, giving it a new item number and Sys3. Nope, it's just gone :(

I really don't like joining rails, but I'm in a shop only situation. If I had to be mobile, things would be different. I did join rails a few times before getting the longer ones. It just never feels good. I have never bent a rail because of the joiners, but it always seems like a possibility.
I've never had an issue with the flexibility of the cord, to the point that the only cords I use are the higher amp ones, since they work with everything.

I have no experience with the DuoDoweller, but I can't imagine giving up my DF500.
 
[member=58857]Crazyraceguy[/member] agree on the connecting rails, but Timberwolf does not import the F310. They do not import the F210 either but I was able to have it sent to me from Germany. It was lucky it was not damaged as the box was ravaged. I had the 120” Fedtool rail but sold it even though it works with Mafell saws. The connector works more than adequately and my belief it is two connected rails are straighter than the 120” rail. My and another I have seen both had some deflection.
 
JimH2 said:
[member=58857]Crazyraceguy[/member] agree on the connecting rails, but Timberwolf does not import the F310. They do not import the F210 either but I was able to have it sent to me from Germany. It was lucky it was not damaged as the box was ravaged. I had the 120” Fedtool rail but sold it even though it works with Mafell saws. The connector works more than adequately and my belief it is two connected rails are straighter than the 120” rail. My and another I have seen both had some deflection.

I was going to ask you where you purchased the F210 because I know Timberwolf doesn't offer it.

I agree with your statement that 2 F160 rails joined together are very likely straighter than a single F310. That F-VS connector also provides some additional support where it's needed most...in the middle of the rail.  [smile]  It probably reduces rail flex substantially.

You've made me rethink my quest for a single F310 rail, I'll keep my F160's connected and order another F160.
 
I have never had a straightness issue with my FS3000. As long as it is placed carefully, on a fully supported surface, I don't see how it could deflect? The complaint that most have is that the grip strip is so strong that you can bow it by setting it down and tugging at the ends to align it. If that is the case, it couldn't possibly deflect, if it was laid right, in the first place.
Now, I wouldn't trust it on a beveled cut, since the force is not directly onto the strip. However, it's no different with joined rails, other than the steel connectors. Could they contribute that much? and again, it's only on beveled cuts. (or some poorly supported cut, on sawhorses, as an example)
I do usually clamp a supporting strip perpendicular to the rail, from the opposite side, just in case.

I have seen a brand-new Makita 55" rail cut a nearly 2mm bow in the middle. I don't know for sure if the rail was actually bent, or too much toe on the saw forced a bad cut. I just know that two pieces approximately 30", cut by that combination, had a gap between them of over 3mm.
It was never investigated further, just returned to the supplier. Later it was replaced by a TSC55. That's how I have had access to one. It's not mine, but I have used it.

I would love to get a test with some Mafell stuff, but their presence here is so minimal as to not exist at all.
 
My experience with the two I have used is some center deflection.

There is only one dealer in the US and they are outstanding. They carry the full line and I have purchased tools from them for 5 years or so, but yes you cannot try them out before and I don’t believe you can return unlike Festool.

Their selection of tools is limited with a lot of it focused on timber framing, but the tools I have purchased I am more than happy. I’ve been in the Festool game since they were first imported here and sold the ones off where there was an equivalent Mafell tool. My 1010 is the next to go now that I just received the LO 55. Festool missed the mark on their 1010 update. The Mafell groove cutter is another tool I have and use to cut dadoes. No US equivalent exists.

That said it takes some nerve to go with them but I have not had any problems with the ones I own.
 
JimH2 said:
The Mafell groove cutter is another tool I have and use to cut dadoes. No US equivalent exists.

Ya, that MF 26 Multi Cutter is pretty slick I started to look at it when the asking price was $2500 it's now up to $3000.  [eek]  I'd just never get that much use out of it but I can certainly still appreciate it.  [smile]
 
Cheese said:
JimH2 said:
The Mafell groove cutter is another tool I have and use to cut dadoes. No US equivalent exists.
Ya, that MF 26 Multi Cutter is pretty slick I started to look at it when the asking price was $2500 it's now up to $3000.  [eek]  I'd just never get that much use out of it but I can certainly still appreciate it.  [smile]
Not a US equivalent, but Makita, Hitachi, possibly other Japanese makers offer groove cutters for Asian market. You can get them on eBay. Those tools are 100V but from my experience built like tanks and work fine on US 120V.
Domestic (Japanese) selection of Makita, Hitachi, Ryobi carpentry tools is just another world.
 
Cheese said:
JimH2 said:
The Mafell groove cutter is another tool I have and use to cut dadoes. No US equivalent exists.

Ya, that MF 26 Multi Cutter is pretty slick I started to look at it when the asking price was $2500 it's now up to $3000.  [eek]  I'd just never get that much use out of it but I can certainly still appreciate it.  [smile]

I picked mine up in the UK on a trip. The tool is 110V which IIRC is required on job sites for some tools (my knowledge of this is sketchy) and the connector it has is a large yellow locking one. I ordered the female equivalent and made a 1' extension cord. I could have cut the cord and installed a US plug or if I was picky I could have ordered the US cord from Timberwolf. When I bought it a few years ago it was significantly cheaper in the UK.

It also is a tracksaw, albeit smaller cutting depth, and has triple blade for bending applications. I have no use for it, but interesting that such a thing exists. There also is drywall 45 degree cutter. Apparently drywallers are taken more seriously there versus the way it is in the US. Good drywallers are craftsmen no matter where you live, but they seem to get a lot less respect by many.
 
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