Forstner depth stops?

[JonathanJung]

Anyone have experience with depth stops for forstner bits? I often find myself counterboring for bolt heads, fastcaps, cabinet screws, lags, etc. What should I use in these situations? I grab my forstner bits, occasional a spade bit.

Fastcap has their Flushmount for recessing powerhead screws and covering with a fastcap, but Fastcap's quality is a real problem and I want a depth stop not limited to the 3 size cutters they offer -https://www.fastcap.com/product/flushmount-drill-bit-system

I'd like it to be non-marring, so probably with a bearing. Initially I'm after a 9/16" for flush sticking Fastcaps.

Anyone have a source for the Fisch 973F?

Some out there are these:
https://www.eagleamerica.com/product/301-0109/woodboring_-_forstner_bitshttps://woodworker.com/1-6-forstner...zdckCN1WeSRXT0_Wuiv3MORRACbdJNLkaAglTEALw_wcBhttps://www.fisch-tools.com/en/produkte/973f-drill-stopper-for-forstner-bithttps://www.sautershop.com/depth-stop-for-forstner-bits-fa-162110800?c=14759

 

[CeeJay]

For Forstner bits I use a thin black permanent marker and mark the depth I want to stop at on the outside. The black line is pretty easy to see and use as a depth stop.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Bob D.]

Are you drilling free-hand with a hand held drill?

If using a drill press most have some sort of mechanical depth
stop built in or one can be made without much trouble.

 

[cperren]

Infinity Tools has the FAMAG depth stops for Forstner Bits.
https://www.infinitytools.com/famag-forstner-bit-accessories

 

[cpw]

I have a fastcap system with the three bits, they work, I haven't had any quality problems with this product.  I know that they have a hit and miss reputation for quality (but will always make it right from a customer service perspective).  Sometimes they'll come out perfect, but other times you can leave a bit of a mark, especially if you are not quite straight and one side of the stop collar contacts before the other.  I actually used it yesterday, 3/4 were perfect but one left a slight mark where the collar rotated against the paint.  Prefinished plywood is tougher and your less likely to leave a mark.

 

[Oldwood]

I use a drill stand if I have enough holes to justify setting it up. This is not the one I own but the same idea. They help keeping the drill perpendicular and have a built in stop.
https://www.amazon.com/Milescraft-1...B014A1Z92I/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=drill+stand&qid=1612280580&sr=8-4

I have also in a pinch drilled a hole through a piece of wood that is thick enough that the bit protrudes  through the amount I need the depth of cut to be then the drill chuck bottoms out on the scrap and acts as a stop.

 

[kevin clifford]

If you have a corded hammer drill, they come with a handle and a rod that can be used for a depth stop. I've used it on a cordless drill as well. I know the Dewalt works from one drill to another, makita as well.

 

[JonathanJung]

For Forstner bits I use a thin black permanent marker and mark the depth I want to stop at on the outside. The black line is pretty easy to see and use as a depth stop.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Good idea, if that works I may have one less reason to use spade bits.

 

[JonathanJung]

Are you drilling free-hand with a hand held drill?

If using a drill press most have some sort of mechanical depth
stop built in or one can be made without much trouble.

Hand-held drill

 

[JonathanJung]

Infinity Tools has the FAMAG depth stops for Forstner Bits.
https://www.infinitytools.com/famag-forstner-bit-accessories

Sweet, thanks! I emailed them, but do you know if they fit Fisch / Freud bits?

 

[JonathanJung]

I have a fastcap system with the three bits, they work, I haven't had any quality problems with this product.  I know that they have a hit and miss reputation for quality (but will always make it right from a customer service perspective).  Sometimes they'll come out perfect, but other times you can leave a bit of a mark, especially if you are not quite straight and one side of the stop collar contacts before the other.  I actually used it yesterday, 3/4 were perfect but one left a slight mark where the collar rotated against the paint.  Prefinished plywood is tougher and your less likely to leave a mark.

That's good feedback. I've been dissatisfied with so many of their product, the majority of what I've purchased, that I didn't want to waste $65 on another. I might give one a try though.

 

[JonathanJung]

I use a drill stand if I have enough holes to justify setting it up. This is not the one I own but the same idea. They help keeping the drill perpendicular and have a built in stop.
https://www.amazon.com/Milescraft-1...B014A1Z92I/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=drill+stand&qid=1612280580&sr=8-4

I have also in a pinch drilled a hole through a piece of wood that is thick enough that the bit protrudes  through the amount I need the depth of cut to be then the drill chuck bottoms out on the scrap and acts as a stop.

I've done the same too, using a wood block with a hole drilled first with the drill press, then I take it with me for on site work. It's ok, but is very clumsy to use.

 

[JonathanJung]

If you have a corded hammer drill, they come with a handle and a rod that can be used for a depth stop. I've used it on a cordless drill as well. I know the Dewalt works from one drill to another, makita as well.

What would be cool is an attachment with 3 rods, so that the drilling finishes square to the surface. I've got a drill with that, but it's easy to drill wonky.

 

[Packard]

Rockler has a "jig-it" for that purpose.
https://www.amazon.com/Rockler-JIG-IT®-Drill-Guide/dp/B001GT8EY8

And, of course, a drill press works fine for that application.

 

[dpow]

That's good feedback. I've been dissatisfied with so many of their product, the majority of what I've purchased, that I didn't want to waste $65 on another. I might give one a try though.

This is late but for anyone else who sees this, that Fastcap bit is $25 less on Amazon