Frameless cabinets edge banding

[Mario Turcot]

I have two cabinets (bb ply) and I was wondering what is the usual/preferred method to apply edge banding on corners. Last time I did some edge banding is 40 years ago when melamine was HOT  [big grin]

Those are shop cabinets but I want to learn the proper way to do it.

Straight or 45 degree?

 

[tomp]

If you're talking iron-on wood tape on the edge of plywood, 45° is definitely the way to go. I stop ironing about 2" from the corners and let the tape overlap. Then take a single edge razor blade. align it across the junctures and tap down to cut through both layers. Pull the cutoff pieces out of the way and finish ironing and rubbing out the tape. Same for all four corners - this makes a nice neat joint.

 

[Mario Turcot]

Aaaaaaaaah great tip, thank you so much  [big grin]

Mario

 

[fshanno]

I like the edge banding to look like thin rails and stiles.  The rails butt into the styles.

It really doesn't make much difference though because the reveal is so small on frameless construction.

 

[sancho57]

If you dont want to use tape you could always use thin strips of solid wood instead of the iron on edge banding.

 

[Mario Turcot]

[member=10147]jobsworth[/member]

If you dont want to use tape you could always use thin strips of solid wood instead of the iron on edge banding.

I like that option too, I have some poplar I can use for that. What would you consider a durable option in thickness? Carcass is BB 18mm, would you use glue only?

Keep in mind that this is fix base shop cabinets where other rolling cart cabinets travel around.

Mario

 

[tomp]

I make my edge banding that I use for shop cabinets somewhere between 1/8" and 5/32" thick - when I'm cutting wood parts, I'll rip edge banding off the boards until I get close to the finished size, that way I usually have some lying around and don't need to stop and cut some while I'm working. I use the Rockler jig which works very well, and use a piece from the pile to set the jig so that I keep the thickness pretty constant. I'll either use Tightbond and a pin nailer or just tape the strips to the edge - the green tape that Lee Valley sells is good for this. It's actually a standard 3M product so can be found - I think Amazon carries it and a little cheaper than Lee Valley, which is good because I go through quite a bit of it. With the strips cut from 3/4" stock, there's very minimal overhang on plywood, and I find that it's usually quicker (and a whole lot quieter) to just trim the banding with a sharp block plane.

 

[Sparktrician]

If you're talking iron-on wood tape on the edge of plywood, 45° is definitely the way to go. I stop ironing about 2" from the corners and let the tape overlap. Then take a single edge razor blade. align it across the junctures and tap down to cut through both layers. Pull the cutoff pieces out of the way and finish ironing and rubbing out the tape. Same for all four corners - this makes a nice neat joint.

I like this method, provided that the top and side of the cabinet is not visible.  I either is visible, I'll use the straight cut so that the banding matches the joint in a credible manner.

 

[sancho57]

[member=10147]jobsworth[/member]

If you dont want to use tape you could always use thin strips of solid wood instead of the iron on edge banding.

I like that option too, I have some poplar I can use for that. What would you consider a durable option in thickness? Carcass is BB 18mm, would you use glue only?

Keep in mind that this is fix base shop cabinets where other rolling cart cabinets travel around.

Mario

It all depends. If your going for say 24" deep then I would make my cabinet 23 3/4 add a 1/4" thick edging. Id glue it and attach with a 23 ga pin nailer.

 

[TinyShop]

Alternatively, you could consider making and installing your own solid-stock edging using one of the methods discussed elsewhere on this forum. After reading the various ideas presented in the aforementioned thread, I'm personally leaning towards picking up an edge banding router bit set that will allow me to achieve the following (using only glue and clamps):

[Source]
 

 

[lwoirhaye]

Alternatively, you could consider making and installing your own solid-stock edging using one of the methods discussed elsewhere on this forum. After reading the various ideas presented in the aforementioned thread, I'm personally leaning towards picking up an edge banding router bit set that will allow me to achieve the following (using only glue and clamps):

I had a Burgess Edge router bit set and used it on a few jobs.  Results were not bad.  It required tremendous focus to route the recesses freehand.  I never screwed any up though.  The geometry of the bits you show may be more forgiving or produce better results but understand that it's time consuming to do.  Milling up 1/4" stock and applying it with clamps or pins is faster and the appearance is equally acceptable imo.  Also, consider that after you cut your tongue, you'll have to rip it off and it will leave a rough surface off the saw.  You can glue it to the panel and joint to clean it, hand plane, or surface it entirely by sanding.  However you do it, it's another step.  With 1/4" solid wood it can simply be ripped a little thick and run through a planer and drum sander if you have one.

I have a Hess pneumatic edgebanding press which simplifies the edge gluing but it would still be faster just to use plain wood strips with clamps than fooling around with the profile cuts.

 

[sancho57]

[member=63192]lwoirhaye[/member]

I haven't used the bits before.I always just glued and pin, sanded smooth and rout flush. It was pretty quick process for me.

 

[Master Carpenter]

I have two cabinets (bb ply) and I was wondering what is the usual/preferred method to apply edge banding on corners. Last time I did some edge banding is 40 years ago when melamine was HOT  [big grin]

Those are shop cabinets but I want to learn the proper way to do it.

Straight or 45 degree?

Seems the forum norm to give complicated answers to simple questions.

Over here on the left coast I've only seen and done square corners on edge banding. What's normal probably depends on where you live. What's preferred is up to you.

 

[Sparktrician]

Seems the forum norm to give complicated answers to simple questions.

Kind of like, "Bring me a rock.  NO, not THAT rock!", eh?  [poke]

 

[Ulmus]

Thanks to all for the variety of answers.  It is very helpful to have diverse ideas!

 

[Mario Turcot]

Thanks to all for the variety of answers.  It is very helpful to have diverse ideas!

Indeed, I like how a simple question can bring an extensive variety of solution.

I took good note of the 2" technique and I will go for a 1/4" hardwood edge for the current cabinets. Since those are shop base cabinets I want something more substantial with a longer life expectation.

Thank you all, Mario

 

[greg mann]

Jack Nicholson ordering breakfast in Five Easy Pieces.

 

[Sparktrician]

Jack Nicholson ordering breakfast in Five Easy Pieces.

BA-HAHAHAHAHA!!!  [big grin]  [thumbs up]

 

[sancho57]

FYI

Ive been building some shop cabinets and had some iron on edge banding lying around so I thught I would try it using Seths (I Think it was Seth) method he mentioned in another post. Which was really for the self sticking edge band , applying pressure after each operation, apply and apply pressure ,trim apply pressure, etc etc.

So with the iron on I found the same theory works. Heat and apply edge banding, apply pressure, trim ends apply heat and pressure, trim, apply heat and pressure. It seemed to work well. Just got to give it a few minutes for the EB to cool in between processes or it will move on ya a bit.

This took a bit more time to do but I am happy with the results.