Framers pride

valerko

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Joined
May 9, 2008
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11
I'm framer by trade.I do a lot of siding and interior trim as well,but no real high end stuff.
Anyway , my friends is expecting another baby and this is what I made for them  -- rocking cradle

First project of this kind for me.Tried to make one when my wife was pregnant , but haven't got past buying the wood. ;D

Well this cradle is made out of ash.Used plans out of magazine for templates and measurements and modified it a bit ,to make it bit more robust and heavier.Used Domino for slots in rails and made "spindles" to match dominoes.Finished with Tung  oil
Very proud of myself ;D ;D
 
Nice job!

I don't want to be a sh...disturber  ;D but what is the distance between the slats? Small enough so that a baby's head wont fit through? Looks a bit to big for me ::)
 
Great job on first Festool project. Bet it won't be the last from the looks of it.
 
slats are 3" OC  , so I think it'll be OK.
Definitely not the last project.Have to make something for my son now. ;D
 
You were right about this not being last project.When my wife brought the cradle to my friends baby shower, she came back with 2 more "orders" LOL
Well here's cradle # 2

Made out of African Mahogany .Little expensive wood, but sure beautiful.Only thing "bought" are dowels for sides,those are Red Oak.
I think it came out pretty good :)

 
Not to be a downer, but any crib  requires those slats to have no more than 2" between for safety reasons. The head can not get through but many babies have broken there legs and arms in those slats and choked. Whether your is defined as a baby crib may be debatable. You do not sell them so these codes probably do not apply to you, but they may.

I do not want to cause problems, but if your friends baby got hurt I imagine more than a law suit would be a problem. I am sure you would not feel to good about it.

I am just posting the rules enforced  on all crib makers not  commenting on the spacing myself. I believe these are updated 1999 rules.

Adjustable rails:
If a crib has a top rail that drops down to help place an infant in or take him or her out of the crib, to prevent the
child from falling out
(a) the top of the adjustable rail at its highest position must be at least 26 inches above the top of the mattress
support at its lowest position, and

(b)
the top of the adjustable rail at its lowest position must be at least 9 inches above the top of the mattress
support at its highest position.
Slats, spindles, and other parts:
To prevent children from strangling because their bodies can slip through openings but their heads cannot,
parts such as slats, spindles, corner posts and rods cannot be more than 2 inches apart at any point, and
cannot be greater than 2? inches apart when a loading wedge test is performed.


Hardware:

Hardware accessible to a child must be designed and constructed so that it does not pinch, bruise, crush, cut,
break, or amputate any part of a child?s body during normal use, or with reasonably foreseeable damage or
abuse to the crib. Locking devices for dropside rails must require two distinct actions or a minimum of 10
pounds of force for release. Wood screws may not be used to connect stationary sides, dropside rails, folding
rails or stabilizing bars to crib ends or other parts that a consumer must remove during normal disassembly.

Construction and Finishing:

All wood surfaces must be smooth and free from splinters; all wood parts shall be free from splits, cracks, or
other defects that might cause a crib or any of its parts to fall off or come apart. End panels and sides,
including any attachments, cannot have any horizontal bar, ledge or projection with a depth greater than1/16
inch, or any other surface that a child inside the crib might use as a toehold.

Assembly Instructions and Labeling:

Every crib must be sold with detailed assembly instructions as well as identifying marks, cautionary
statements, and compliance declarations. Please refer to the regulation for the contents and placement of the
required information, as well as for the requirements for keeping records of the sale and distribution of cribs.

Cutouts:

To prevent a risk of strangulation, the crib regulation contains a test to evaluate whether cutouts such as
decorative openings sometimes found on the tops of the ends of a crib create a risk of head or neck
entrapment.

3. What type of mattress should I use in a full-size crib?

To prevent head entrapment and suffocation between the mattress and crib sides, a mattress used in full-size
cribs must be at least 27? inches by 51 inches with a thickness not exceeding 6 inches. The assembly
instructions, the retail carton for the crib, and the crib itself must contain a specific warning statement which
contains these dimensions. The mattress must fit snugly so that two adult fingers cannot fit between the
mattress and the crib side.

Here are slightly older standards not as stringent(1991 I think)but I guess are still good in some states: A 2 3/8" space is allowed.

Crib regulation

New rules are going to be voted on next month as decided on 11/10/2008. SO the standards are going to get even tougher.

Here are the federal regs: CFR title 16, volume 2
 
Guys, ....come on.  It's a cradle not a crib.  The baby won't be in that more than 6 months.  Additionally,  there will be padding all around it.  All a baby will do is roll over at that age....if anything.  Great job Valerko! 
 
The cradle regs are the same. Actually the regs are called the crib and cradle regulations. This is America, you know. The place where you can sue for anything.

Its great work! But there is a huge liability issue and I think had he known before hand he would have followed the regs.

My 2nd daughter could walk at 7 months, so the 6 month logic makes no sense at all. These regs are in place because things have already happened, they are not preventive measures, they were enacted after 100's of deaths, so I would not take it so lightly.

I would rather be called an ass for mentioning it rather than something happen and he wonder why no one here noticed it. Now that he knows he must tell whoever he gives it to that's all.
 
I appreciate all safety comments.I did think of most of the "crib rules" you posted.Both cradles have rails with less then 2" in between.
First one has them 3" OC and they are a1" wide that laves 2" in between.Second one uses 1/2 dowels at 2 3/8 OC so that leaves less then 2" in between.
Everything is smoothly sanded and used Tung oil to finish it.Nothing on the bottle said it toxic ,I've checked carefully,so I should be OK.
I really doubt any of the babies will be in there for more then 3-4 months tops,plus it'll have padding around,so I pretty sure I'll sleep OK :)

Thanks for all the comments,keep them coming.
BTW:Do any of you guys make living doing stuff like this?Just curious,because if  I 'd be asked to put a price on them ,it would have to be at leas 800$ - 900$  .Mahogany alone was almost 300$

On the other note,another friend wants me to make lifeguard chair for his pool.Thing is he wants it to be double chair ,or more of lifeguard "love seat"  .What would be good wood to use and what finish.
I was thinking teak or something similar ??
 
Yes about a 1000.00 is right.

In this climate you need to shop it to the well off, people are not thinking about heir loom quality right now, just getting by. I am losing a lot of business to guys giving inlays away at a loss. Actually, in good times 5 times the cost of materiel is right to make good money. In bad times 3.5 to 4 times the material might be nec. less than that you break even on time.

I have always made money on 5 times the material costand usually make money at 4 times the material cost. Of course my numbers are a little different because I include shipping etc, so you may get away with a little less in the ratio.

I think in good times you could sell them though, they are nice!

And it sounds like you meet the standards just fine.
 
Valerko,

Very nice work. 

I'm an amateur hobbyist woodworker, but whenever I have compared the cost of typically used materials for a project with the overall cost of the same project if done by a professional woodworker/carpenter/cabinet maker, that ratio has always been  1 (materials) to 4 to 5 times (finished project price).  I define a professional as one whose primary livelihood is derived from his craft.  They obviously have to get paid for their time and their investments in tools, a shop and operating expenses.  And most quotes I have received elevate the overall cost of the project in proportion to the cost differential of the materials rather than simply adjusting upward the price due to switching materials, e.g. from ash (relatively cheap today) to cherry (relatively high today).  Thus, to me $1000 is not at all unreasonable.  Even more if the dowels/slats were made of the same mahogany.  Also, don't forget to factor in the finish.  In my own experience, finishing often takes much longer than building a piece.  Most people who have not done it themselves have little understanding of the time required to achieve a good finish or the number of steps and the cost of finishing materials.  I'm near completion of an entertainment center approximately 9 1/2 ft wide by 7 ft high, made of red oak solids and red oak veneered plywood; to my surprise I have spent ~$300 on finishing materials (mostly Target Coatings WB shellac, sanding sealer, and lacquers, but also oil based stains and Seal Coat shellac).  Before this project, I would not have estimated the cost of finishing materials to be anywhere near so high.

Dave R.
 
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