Free Standing Deck or Attached

[skids]

Hello, quick question on Decks..I am building a house, well I'm not a builder is building for me, although I am very involved..I have asked them to bump out where the patio door is, and the way thats going to be executed is by cantilvering out from the house 2ft, which essentially creates a concern for the deck attachment.

My question is, in this situation, is a free standing deck the best solution? Or should I just put additional piers closer to the house and attach? And lastly, is a freestanding deck attached to the house at all (yes dumb question)? Or do you just slide the final deckboard into the house to cover the gap?

My main concern is having a deck hanging off a cantilever.

Thanks for any help!

 

[Yukonal]

I built a free standing 10 foot by 20 foot deck at our cabin. My main reason for building a free standing deck rather than an attached deck was that I had read so many articles about the rot that occurs where a deck attaches to a building.

It would be important to check the building codes in your area. My building inspector said that the maximum distance the deck could be from our cabin would be 4 inches. Also I am talking about a cabin at the lake and not a house in town.

I constructed my deck with pressure treated 2 x material on 2 foot by 2 foot pressure treated pads. I did not require any cross bracing. The deck is very sturdy. The deck is built on unlevel land and sits about 2 feet high by the cabin and about 3 feet high 10 feet out at its outer edge. A friend who has done a lot of building mentioned that "one could hold a weight watchers convention on it."

Cheers,
Alex

 

[skids]

I built a free standing 10 foot by 20 foot deck at our cabin. My main reason for building a free standing deck rather than an attached deck was that I had read so many articles about the rot that occurs where a deck attaches to a building.

It would be important to check the building codes in your area. My building inspector said that the maximum distance the deck could be from our cabin would be 4 inches. Also I am talking about a cabin at the lake and not a house in town.

I constructed my deck with pressure treated 2 x material on 2 foot by 2 foot pressure treated pads. I did not require any cross bracing. The deck is very sturdy. The deck is built on unlevel land and sits about 2 feet high by the cabin and about 3 feet high 10 feet out at its outer edge. A friend who has done a lot of building mentioned that "one could hold a weight watchers convention on it."

Cheers,
Alex

Yes, I certainly like the idea of a FS deck..I do have to check local requirements, as I am sure they are allowed but I bet there is an increase in post size and attachments.

 

[CarolinaNomad]

Yes, I certainly like the idea of a FS deck..I do have to check local requirements, as I am sure they are allowed but I bet there is an increase in post size and attachments.
[/quote]

The post sizes won't increase.  The braces may be needed depending on the height of the posts.  I would have added braces to Alex's deck, but as stated it wasn't necessary.  I over design certain things especially if the cost difference isn't much.  And added 2x4 as braces isn't much as compared to needing them after the deck is built which can be a pain to get access to the posts.

I like FS Decks for the same reasons stated above plus there's no penetration into the foundation or rim board which could allow water to enter the building.

 

[peter halle]

Freestanding deck.  With at least a slight gap in the decking surface at the house.  Eliminates flashing issues and getting into strange code issues.  Also will eliminate code issues with specialty fastening systems to prevent ledger pull putt.  A free standing deck with joists cantilevered over the beam line within design allowances at the home side will eliminate needing to put the posts directly at the house.  Of course this approach (joists over beam) will have height above grade requirements, but usually this will not be an issue unless your house is slab on grade.

Peter

 

[skids]

Freestanding deck. With at least a slight gap in the decking surface at the house. Eliminates flashing issues and getting into strange code issues. Also will eliminate code issues with specialty fastening systems to prevent ledger pull putt. A free standing deck with joists cantilevered over the beam line within design allowances at the home side will eliminate needing to put the posts directly at the house. Of course this approach (joists over beam) will have height above grade requirements, but usually this will not be an issue unless your house is slab on grade.

Peter

Thanks peter! Hope you are well...I talked to the framer today about it and he looked at me like I had three heads and mumbled something about it blowing over if it isn't connected to the house. Deck will a probably be 2 to 3 feet off the ground at most.

He wants to connect to the house with a traditional ledger attachment and post up near the house I compensate for the cantilever. Not sure this is allowed but can't think of a reason it wouldn't be.

 

[peter halle]

I make a good part of my living repairing rotten wood on exteriors.  If I had your choice I would build the free standing and add the cross bracing to the posts.  Bottom line, a few more post holes, some more footings for the posts, and then whatever the cross bracing is.  Take away the need for the flashing, make sure that your connections (staggered) to the house meet code, and in my mind there aren't many reasons for connecting in your case.

Perhaps I am just strange and have seen far too many installations that earn me money and I would prefer to eliminate that profit avenue.

Good luck!

Peter

 

[Stephen B]

[size=11pt]

Whilst our deck, hopefully, has sufficient flashing along house walls, I wish the deck was isolated because footsteps on the deck reverberate inside, particularly those sections of deck 2metres above ground level.

If I had my time again, but engineer and building inspector recommended what we have; however inspector was very specific regrading flashing, that deck run lengthways and that there be at least 3mm gap between cladding and first deck timber (Merbu).

Edit. House and deck on stumps.

 

[Deadskins]

Freestanding is ok, as long as your builder goes with code.  However, an attached deck will also be with code, and, thus rot should not be an issue as it will be properly attached.  Just make sure to verify that the building permit is issued and recieves final approval.

 

[Jesse Hughes]

I have built a couple decks using "deck2wall spacers". These make attaching ledgers to house nice and easy without having to flash the heck of it. It gives a channel for drainage, and attaches to house after siding is on and painted. Freestanding would be ideal for rot reasons but I think this is a great second and then no need for posts/footings by house. Just my thoughts.

 

[tjbnwi]

By the national IRC/IBC a deck cannot be hung off or attached to the cantilevered area. You will need to check any local amendments to the code that may change this. The reason is no support under the ledger.

Properly mounted and flashed there is no reason a deck ledger cannot be mounted directly to a solid sawn house ledger that is not at a cantilever.

An FYI a deck ledger board by code cannot be attached to brick veneer walls either.

Tom

 

[skids]

By the national IRC/IBC a deck cannot be hung off or attached to the cantilevered area. You will need to check any local amendments to the code that may change this. The reason is no support under the ledger.

Properly mounted and flashed there is no reason a deck ledger cannot be mounted directly to a solid sawn house ledger that is not at a cantilever.

An FYI a deck ledger board by code cannot be attached to brick veneer walls either.

Tom

This is gospel right there, thanks Tom!

You think additional piers close to the house would resolve the issue? That would keep the continuous load path to the earth no? Wouldn't they have to be in contact with both the cantilever and the deck? Deck will be 16x16.

I never liked the idea of the cantilever but we took the house after foundation pour and it's gonna be an important upgrade for the interior space.

Sadly people in New England don't do freestanding decks, almost never . So it's like talking a foreign language. I love the concept in this application

 

[tjbnwi]

You may have to go with helical piers closer to the house. Any digging and backfilling has disturbed the soil. You have to get down to undisturbed soil (look up the IBC/IRC definition of undisturbed soil).

Google Techno Metal Posts, they may have a dealer in your area. While they're there have them do all your footings. None better. Even if there is not a dealer in your area contact the closest to you.

Tom

 

[tjbnwi]

A little light reading on perspective deck design;

http://www.awc.org/publications/DCA/DCA6/DCA6-09.pdf

Tom