Per Swenson
Member
- Joined
- Jan 16, 2007
- Messages
- 875
In the interest of full disclosure these tools were not provided to me for review purposes.
The saw is mine, and the power plane is a loaner to see if I would consider switching from my Makita.
Besides this isn't a review but a how to.
From Rough Sawn to workable, with the 850 planer and TS75
Or more aptly titled , Our method of converting rough sawn lumber
to usable stock.
The rough sawn we are dealing with today measures a nominal 5/4.
What this actually means is the stock could be anywhere from a inch and eighth
to a inch and 3/8ths in thickness. Often in the same board.
You can't just go and chuck this stock in a planer.
[attachimg=#]
You also can't throw it on a table saw, as there is never a straight or square edge.
The ideal solution of course is a industrial 4 headed planer, but if you thought
Festool was expensive. Besides due to space, power and cost, for us it would be impractical.
Often on various forums and e-mails I have recommended building and using a sled for this task.
This works wonders for one or two select pieces of wood, if you need to do a large quantity, the sled
becomes cumbersome.
As for one straight and square edge, in our opinion nothing beats the the guide rail system.
Well, a industrial gang rip maybe, but who are we kidding. More on this in a moment.
Lets get started.
We are going to work outside, because that's where the wood is.
This is in the true spirit of bringing the tool to the work, and its a nice day.
Yes, we are using dust collection outside. I highly recommend using it always
as these tools will clog up quickly if you don't. After all working neat
encourages a better attitude.
The object for us is to achieve a reasonably flat surface that will ride along the planer bed.
So I place the board cup side down, as I want the cup side up for the first pass through the planer.
So there is no confusion the Woodmaster is the planer, the Festool HL850, we will call the Power Plane.
You can pretty much sight down the board and see where things went bad back at the mill.
[attachimg=#]
Chalk the high spots accordingly.
Though, a pair of squares or winding sticks are quite helpful if you are not comfortable with the
sight method.
[attachimg=#] [attachimg=#]
By lining up two squares and sighting down the length of the board as
if it were a gun sight,
you can confirm your suspicions and mark the high spots.
For this, we use nothing more then a school room box of chalk.
(Rest assured though, after you tenth board or so, you will become confident in your ability
to just sight and mark, speeding up the whole process)
[attachimg=#]
The saw is mine, and the power plane is a loaner to see if I would consider switching from my Makita.
Besides this isn't a review but a how to.
From Rough Sawn to workable, with the 850 planer and TS75
Or more aptly titled , Our method of converting rough sawn lumber
to usable stock.
The rough sawn we are dealing with today measures a nominal 5/4.
What this actually means is the stock could be anywhere from a inch and eighth
to a inch and 3/8ths in thickness. Often in the same board.
You can't just go and chuck this stock in a planer.
[attachimg=#]
You also can't throw it on a table saw, as there is never a straight or square edge.
The ideal solution of course is a industrial 4 headed planer, but if you thought
Festool was expensive. Besides due to space, power and cost, for us it would be impractical.
Often on various forums and e-mails I have recommended building and using a sled for this task.
This works wonders for one or two select pieces of wood, if you need to do a large quantity, the sled
becomes cumbersome.
As for one straight and square edge, in our opinion nothing beats the the guide rail system.
Well, a industrial gang rip maybe, but who are we kidding. More on this in a moment.
Lets get started.
We are going to work outside, because that's where the wood is.
This is in the true spirit of bringing the tool to the work, and its a nice day.
Yes, we are using dust collection outside. I highly recommend using it always
as these tools will clog up quickly if you don't. After all working neat
encourages a better attitude.
The object for us is to achieve a reasonably flat surface that will ride along the planer bed.
So I place the board cup side down, as I want the cup side up for the first pass through the planer.
So there is no confusion the Woodmaster is the planer, the Festool HL850, we will call the Power Plane.
You can pretty much sight down the board and see where things went bad back at the mill.
[attachimg=#]
Chalk the high spots accordingly.
Though, a pair of squares or winding sticks are quite helpful if you are not comfortable with the
sight method.
[attachimg=#] [attachimg=#]
By lining up two squares and sighting down the length of the board as
if it were a gun sight,
you can confirm your suspicions and mark the high spots.
For this, we use nothing more then a school room box of chalk.
(Rest assured though, after you tenth board or so, you will become confident in your ability
to just sight and mark, speeding up the whole process)
[attachimg=#]