Garden Bench Project

JayStPeter

Member
Joined
Jan 24, 2007
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399
OutsideInGrass.jpg


Last year, my mother asked me to make her an "asian style" garden bench.  She wanted to put it in her garden and sit facing either the garden or the water.  I decided to make it my Christmas project for the year.

For the most part, this project was a design exercise.  I needed something that I could build relatively quickly since I got a late start and needed to finish by Christmas.  This was the first project I designed using the computer.  As usual, I started by flipping through some books and magazines.  I found a number of cabinets that inspired the leg and top design.  It took a while to find something to make the "floating top", but I found inspiration for the trellis top supports in the "Custom Furniture Sourcebook".  After my standard sketches, I transferred the design into Sketchup and used that to try some different concepts.  Here's one of the last concept drawings.  Notice the side has some extra parts that didn't make the final design.  I liked the concept and would likely build those in if I built another, but they were left out to keep the project "on time".

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Once the design was finalized, I sourced some Saepele from a local supplier.  Most of the bench is 5/4 with 12/4 for the legs.

I used the following Festools in building the project: ETS150/5, ATF55, MFT, OF1400, TDK.  I also used my tablesaw, mortiser, jointer, planer, and bandsaw.  The ETS was the hero of the project.

I started with the base.  To prep the lumber I start with the ATF55 to size down the rough lumber.  It then goes through the jointer, planer, and tablesaw to produce the blanks.  Since I was rushed, I used my mortiser and tablesaw for the base joinery.  My bandsaw was employed to taper the legs.  Then the ETS150 sanded all the parts before assembly.  The extra design effort paid off and the base went together without a hitch.

The top was the more difficult part on this piece.  The curved ends pushed me a little bit.

UpperEdgeDetail.jpg


I started off building the top 8" too long.  Then, on the MFT, I cut a 4" strip off each and and glued it on to the top.  That built the ends up so they would "stick up" in the final piece.  I taped a template for the curve to the edge of the piece.  For the outside curve, I was able to use the tablesaw to nibble away the waste and give me a stair stepped version of the curve that was easily smoothed out with a block plane and the ETS150.  However, the inside curve was not so easy.  I couldn't safely use the tablesaw to make this cut since the center of the board was unsupported.  Even with a piece temporarily tacked on, the fact that the edge was in the air made it much more difficult to control the piece that it had with the edge on the table.
After some thought, I realized that a jig I had been designing in my head for another reason would work.  I built a dadoing jig for the MFT.  I ran the router over the part and adjusted the piece and the bit depth to eventually come up with a stair stepped version on the inside curve.  I was then able to use a scraper, rasp, microplanes, and sanding sleeves from my BOSS to smooth out the inside curve.  I have detail the jig in another post in the Jigs forum, but here is a shot to give the basic idea.

JigMounted.JPG


Since this was to be an outdoor piece, I decided to give it a very durable finish.  I saw Norm build a boat and coat the entire thing with epoxy.  Over that, I would put some Sikkens spar varnish.

So, I got some of the System3 epoxy made to be used as a UV resistant finish.  I put it on using a 2" brush.  OK, we're talking less than a week to Christmas here.  I hadn't even had time to clean my shop.  Usually I clean the place spotless before applying finish.  Instead, I had to tread carefully to keep dust down.

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I wasn't quite in panic mode until I came down and saw the epoxy finish.  On the base, it turned out OK.  Since the surfaces were small, the minor waves and bubbles were easy to sand out and get a really nice flat finish.  But, the large surface of the top was severely wavy and had tons of bubbles dried into it.  An epoxy finish, well, lets just say that's the first time I've sanded a finish flat with 100 grit.  I spent almost as long sanding out the epoxy on the top as I had building it in the first place.  My guess is that the epoxy thickened while I did the base and was just way too thick as I put it on the top.  Wow, that was not fun.

I managed to put on 3 coats of Sikkens over the next few days and finished by Christmas.  The bench was still tacky and smelly when I delivered it to my mother Christmas day.  The Sikkens finish never really dries super hard since it's an outdoor finish.  But, I hoped that this durable finish would allow the bench to live at the beach for at least a few years before needing refinishing.

It turns out, she liked it too much to put it outside and it has resided at the base of her bed since it stopped stinking (about mid January).  The wood I used had some really nice figure that was partially obscured by the cloudy outdoor finish too.  Oh well.  I'm still happy with the design and how it turned out.

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Jay, that's a very elegant bench.

Congratulations on your good design, good construction, and good description.
 
If someone gave it to me, I'd be hesitant to put it outside, too.  It's a much too beautiful piece of art.

Dave R
 
Fantastic design and excellent execution!

Did I miss it what is the wood species used?
 
Thanks for the kind words guys.

The wood used is Sapele.  Chosen for its resistance to rot and insects as well as color.  The price is nice, it is good stuff to work, and my local guy stocks it.  I'll use it again in the future.

Jay
 
I have voted for it, also.  Your design and excution are very elegant and beautiful.

What is the cost of Sapelle at your location?  It seems to be about the same as mahogany near me.  Any differences in working properties compared to African or H. mahogany?

Dave R.
 
Sapele is much harder than African Mahogany, maybe twice as hard. Cuts nice, machines nice I never had an issue with it. Of course it will dull blades a little faster than a lot of woods.
 
Yes I would say more dense than African Mahogany for sure.

Have you used Sipo or Royal Mahogany, I think it is lies between those.

If I remember Eiji uses a lot of it.

I have a bunch sitting here ready for use but my orders are not coming in very much right now, I can send you a piece if you want a sample. I have found that it does vary and I can get some highly figured or a more consistent color throughout too.

Nickao
 
Looks like I missed a couple comments and questions.  Thanks a lot for the positive comments.

Sapele was fairly inexpensive for me, about the same as Walnut.  I'm pretty sure I paid around $4/bf or so.  But, I haven't looked at the price of it lately.  The other Mahagony variants were more expensive (@ $6-7 IIRC). 

I can best compare it to Walnut for most woodworking operations.  Same propensity for splinters and occasionally wants to "peel" when hand planing around grain changes.  I didn't notice that it quickly dulls tools, but I do believe it.  Since I don't work on things every day I don't ever remember which tools are sharp and dull, so I just sharpen as needed.  The carbide and Festool sandpaper didn't notice.  Planer blades were new and still reasonably sharp by the end.

I'm working on a coat rack right now that may (or may not) use some of the leftovers from this.  I'm building the coat rack entirely from lumber I already have, which currently includes some Sapele, Ash, Cherry, and Hickory.  I'm thinking bent laminations with Ash, Cherry, and Sapele, but I'll have to glue up a sample for approval before comitting to it.  I think there will be a lot of hand tool work on this one, so I might notice the dulling action more.
 
Thanks, Jay.  Are you to become the next Sam Maloof?  All those woods and bent lamintions and thoughts of much hand work allow my imagination to run wild.

Dave R.
 
Haha, that remains to be seen.  I'm making this one up as I go.  Might be pretty cool, might be a disaster.  I've made the form based on a picture in my head.  I held my hands apart and laid them on the piece of plywood that was to become the full scale template and said "about that big".  Then drew in the curves.  I'm excited to see how it works out, but also aware that it might just become high effort firewood.  I'm making it 3-sided, so had a heck of a time trying to sketch it out and figure out scale and proportions.  I have to guesstimate what my cartoonish drawing really represented.
 
Ah, yes, master (as in Kung Fu), there is much wisdom in contemplating the hands.  My bet is that your next project will come out very well.

Dave R.
 
Jay,

Since this will definitely be getting wet, why did you go with a solid bench as opposed to to some type slat bench that would release the water?

(I don't intend to be critical in any way, I'm just interested in design considerations)
 
That's a good question.  I actually considered it.  I did some sketchup variants with slats for the top.  One with just flat slats, one where I had sort of breadboard ends with the upturned shape of the top with slats between, and one with slats that was slices of the current top (best of the 3).  Probably would've been better if the thing was actually outdoors.  It can't really be seen, but the top does have a very slight crown made with handplanes to keep water from settling on it.  I'm not sure if it works or not as it has never been wet.  It is really slight, less than 1/32".  My hope was that some shape would at least keep water from pooling anywhere.  I doubt my parents will try to play marbles on it, but if they do they'll be surprised. ;D
 
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