Getting by without a Router Table

[Dan Clermont]

Sold my PC router to buy my Festool OF 1400 awhile back and have had no regrets. Love the OF 1400 however as I was told and totally agree with the Festool does not work well in a router table so now I have a choice. Either get a MFT or buy another router for the router table.

The MFT would come in handy with my TS-55 and angled cuts, cuts on smaller boards, etc. It would also help with drawer bottom grooves which is my crux right now.

Is their anything that I am missing which requires a router table and can't be done on the MFT?

If you had to buy a router for a dedicated router table which one would you buy?

TIA
Dan Clermont

 

[martingchapman]

Dan, not sure if it is available where you are but my choice for a table mounted router would be the big (2000 watt) Triton.
It has rack and pinion height adjustment plus a fine adjuster. Router bits are changed from above the table, you just crank the router up to maximum plunge (remember it is upside down), the collet nut extends above the table and in this position the shaft locks, you only need one hand on a spanner and the other holds the router bit. Also you can easily remove one of the plunge springs to make plunging in a table lighter.
It has soft start, variable speed, a large opening, good dust collection and the motor is fully enclosed at the bit end so no dust will get into it when in the table.
I have used one of these in a Triton router table and now I have it in a Festool CMS router table (in preference to a Festool 1400 or 2000) and for table use I can thoroughly recommend it.
The only downside I have found is that the supplied fence for hand held use is not very good.

Hope this helps - Martin.

 

[bill-e]

Ditto on the Triton.  For $214 bucks you can beat it.  You'll find a review on my page.

While you can always find ways to get around not having a specific setup, I personally would never be without a table router.

 

[clintholeman]

I can only speak for myself, but I don't have a router table - everything is done with my OF 1400 and MFT.  I suppose there are times when a router table would be handy, but I'm short of space and don't miss it at all.  Kind of like the TS I don't have.

Thus far, I haven't found anything I couldn't make with it. And make pretty efficiently, IMO.

I think I would use the money to get an MFS and/or the Dovetail system.

 

[Les]

How are those without router tables cutting raised panel doors?

I agree with Bill, I'd never give up my router table.

How does the Triton mount to a table? Does it require a special plate?

 

[clintholeman]

I use a bit something like this one... Horizontal Raised Panel Bit B3 1/2"SH 1-7/8"OD 3/8"CL
CMT Part: 890.512.11  #823692  from WoodCraft.  Mine is Green...  I'm not sure is WC is still selling them, but Lee Valley has some pretty good ones. 

I also use the LV Shaker bit a lot.

It has worked well so far.  I also have a cove bit that I've used using multiple passes.

My rule is to take it slow and easy -I would with a table as well.

 

[clintholeman]

Try some of the bits on this page from LV. http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=46178&cat=1,46168

I've have nothing but good luck with their stuff. 

 

[Les]

Clint,

Are you using your 1400 and a guide rail? Is the work fixed or the router?

 

[martingchapman]

How does the Triton mount to a table? Does it require a special plate?

Les,
A special plate is included with the Triton router table and it allows mounting of the router by using two (supplied bolts). The bolts go through the router base plate with the head below the base plate and a star knob on each one above the base plate. You loosen the knobs, insert the head of each bolt in a keyhole in the plate, swivel the router so the bolts go into the slot of the key hole then tighten the star knobs on the bolts.
If you are not using the Triton router table with the plate you can drill a couple of countersunk holes in whatever table you are using, fit two countersunk bolts down through the holes, through the router base plate and secure the router with knobs of your choice. Alternatively you could use any router fixing clamps supplied with the router plate. This is what I have done to secure the router to the Festool CMS router table, Festool supply four clamps (intended for use with their 1400 or 2000 router) but they work fine with the Triton. Using this method, because of a strengthening web on the underside of the table the Triton router ends up off centre of the hole in the table by about 6mm but this is not a problem.

Martin.

 

[clintholeman]

Clint,

Are you using your 1400 and a guide rail? Is the work fixed or the router?

The short answer is yes, I use my OF 1400 and guide rail system - it works very well for my projects. 

I fix the work.  I use some pretty simple jigs and the clamps and longitudinal stop.  The jigs are most often to allow the piece to be clamped and still have an edge open - sort of cantilevered just a tad off of the MFT.

 

[bill-e]

How does the Triton mount to a table? Does it require a special plate?

Les,
A special plate is included with the Triton router table and it allows mounting of the router by using two (supplied bolts). The bolts go through the router base plate with the head below the base plate and a star knob on each one above the base plate. You loosen the knobs, insert the head of each bolt in a keyhole in the plate, swivel the router so the bolts go into the slot of the key hole then tighten the star knobs on the bolts.
If you are not using the Triton router table with the plate you can drill a couple of countersunk holes in whatever table you are using, fit two countersunk bolts down through the holes, through the router base plate and secure the router with knobs of your choice. Alternatively you could use any router fixing clamps supplied with the router plate. This is what I have done to secure the router to the Festool CMS router table, Festool supply four clamps (intended for use with their 1400 or 2000 router) but they work fine with the Triton. Using this method, because of a strengthening web on the underside of the table the Triton router ends up off centre of the hole in the table by about 6mm but this is not a problem.

Martin.

For use with a standard router insert like a Incra or Roussau you can drill it with a PC7518 hole pattern and use 4 screws to attach it to the plate.  Incra will pre-drill it for you.  The pattern is the same for both the 3.25 and 2.25hp Triton routers.

 

[bill-e]

btw, the Triton dust collection is so good that it would make an ideal router for use in a non-enclosed fashion like in the MFT or a table saw wing.

 

[Doug Anders]

bill-e,

If I'm going to be strictly using the router in a table, should I consider the 2.25 hp version of the Triton because of the winding handle feature? Or do you think the added horsepower of the bigger unit (3.xx hp) outweighs the utility of the winding handle?

Thanks!

 

[bill-e]

Doug, IMO there is very little utility in the above table winder.  Since one has to reach under the table to unlock the mechanism and since the actual height is set by getting your eye level at the router bit you're already bent over when making the height adjustment anyway so why not twist the knob on the router.  The winder makes some hight adjustments a little easier but I think the final adjustment is always made by aligning the bit to some reference, a block or whatever.  Then you have to reach under and lock the router (if your smart anyway) so not much utility IMO.

Having said that the smaller router is a generation newer and in many ways just a little better than the 3hp one.

But if you're going to be swinging the big bits the 3hp is the way to go.

Speaking of big bits, the hole in the Triton is a bit smaller than some of the other big routers.  The Triton allows for 2-1/4 inch bit to fit through the base plate opening with vacuum shroud in place and a 3 inch bit with vacuum shroud removed.  I never saw this as a limitation because I prefer to move my fence to regulate the cut of a raised panel bit and not raise/lower the bit.

I recently convinced an ornery, opinionated woodworker friend of mine to buy the 2.25hp version.  Within a month he purchased a second small one (for his Leigh) and the 3hp for is table too.  They really are nice routers for the price.  He actually went from a Bosch 1619 and lift to the Triton and loves them. (I might be able to get someone a deal on the Bosch )

 

[woodshopdemos]

Doug, IMO there is very little utility in the above table winder.  Since one has to reach under the table to unlock the mechanism and since the actual height is set by getting your eye level at the router bit you're already bent over when making the height adjustment anyway so why not twist the knob on the router.  The winder makes some hight adjustments a little easier but I think the final adjustment is always made by aligning the bit to some reference, a block or whatever.  Then you have to reach under and lock the router (if your smart anyway) so not much utility IMO.

Having said that the smaller router is a generation newer and in many ways just a little better than the 3hp one.

But if you're going to be swinging the big bits the 3hp is the way to go.

Speaking of big bits, the hole in the Triton is a bit smaller than some of the other big routers.  The Triton allows for 2-1/4 inch bit to fit through the base plate opening with vacuum shroud in place and a 3 inch bit with vacuum shroud removed.  I never saw this as a limitation because I prefer to move my fence to regulate the cut of a raised panel bit and not raise/lower the bit.

I recently convinced an ornery, opinionated woodworker friend of mine to buy the 2.25hp version.  Within a month he purchased a second small one (for his Leigh) and the 3hp for is table too.  They really are nice routers for the price.  He actually went from a Bosch 1619 and lift to the Triton and loves them. (I might be able to get someone a deal on the Bosch )

Bill,
   I have three routers in lifts and they do not need locking. The newest one is the one I mounted in an MFT. All controls are above.

Here is the link to that story: http://festoolownersgroup.com/index.php?topic=1312.0

 

[bill-e]

John,

I saw the writeup, great job as usual.

I was referring to the winder/lock implementation of the Triton, hence the comment.  When eyeballing the bit height, I actually feel more comfortable twisting a knob under the router table then above on a crank...just my preference I guess and my lack of experience with any good lifts.

My friend who bought the Triton's was using a Woodpecker lift and could never get it to stay where he set it (Woodpecker admitted the design flaw IIRC) and that's why he went looking for a new router.

 

[Matthew Schenker]

Dan,
As others have said, there is no way would I ever give up my router table.  After my Festool system, my router table is the most important element of my woodworking (in a dead-heat with the bandsaw).  The MFT is crucial now for every project I do, but it does not eliminate the need for my router table.

Of course, I went all out with my router setup: I have an LS Positioner (25" version) on a table from Woodpeckers.  It offers unbelievable versatility!

In fact, this discussion is quite timely, because I just got through using my router table to edge-joint a bunch of 5/4 maple for a microwave cart.  I use the Incra setup all the time for edge jointing and far prefer it to the jointer.

Raised panel doors, dadoes, patterns, box joints, and dovetails are all done on this router table in my shop.

If you're interested in the Incra setup, which I strongly recommend, check this: LS POSITIONER

Matthew

 

[Dan Clermont]

Thanks for all of the input guys and if their is more please keep it coming!!!

I sold of the router table router to buy the OF 1400 and have been very happy with the purchase so far. I was using a PC 690 in a table and think the way I used to adjust  it could be duplicated with the OF 1400 (simply pushing up on the router and using the fence to hold the router plate in place). It wasn't the most convenient but it did work.

If I bought a dedicated table router it would definitely be the Triton. Matter of fact, I considered buying the Triton instead of the OF 1400 cause of the price.

Mathew- The first tool I ever fell in love with was the Incra!! I still don't own one as I cut most of my dovetails by hand however I am rethinking the Incra and if I build a dedicated table might look at the 16" version

Cheers
Dan Clermont

 

[Overtime]

In the past I have had a crude home made table, then had a Bosh RA1181 bench top with a PC 7529 under it. It was a real job to make adjustments including bit changing. But it got the job done.
  I now have a Jessem Mast-R-Lift XL with a PC 7518 and I gotta say it is light years ahead of any router table that I have ever used. I love the thing, set up and adjustments are almost fun. I know that Jointech, Woodpecker and Incra have some great stuff also.
  I read John's Woodshopdemo's write up on hand held use (Festool) for the stile and rail process and see that it is doable. But I much prefer the table for this kind of process. And I could not see going without it. I would think a Festool router table and table specific router would be a good item for them to manufacture so long as the quality would exceed all of the current products on the market today.   

 

[woodshopdemos]

In the past I have had a crude home made table, then had a Bosh RA1181 bench top with a PC 7529 under it. It was a real job to make adjustments including bit changing. But it got the job done.
  I now have a Jessem Mast-R-Lift XL with a PC 7518 and I gotta say it is light years ahead of any router table that I have ever used. I love the thing, set up and adjustments are almost fun. I know that Jointech, Woodpecker and Incra have some great stuff also.
  I read John's Woodshopdemo's write up on hand held use (Festool) for the stile and rail process and see that it is doable. But I much prefer the table for this kind of process. And I could not see going without it. I would think a Festool router table and table specific router would be a good item for them to manufacture so long as the quality would exceed all of the current products on the market today.     

OT,
  The pages you quoted of mine were really to see if it could be done. I much prefer a router table vis a vis the new mast-r-lift and Jessem/Milwaukee router unit. 

Sal and Elena preparing the new router unit to install in an MFT.

Here is the story:http://www.woodshopdemos.com/jes-mtr-1.htm