GF Enduro white poly

[mike9]

I recently purchased the Gf enduro white poly and would like to know what spray setup to use. My current sprayers are Graco Ultra and Fuji Mini Mite 4. I haven't has a chance to play around with it yet so hoping someone can get me started. I plan on spraying my stairs as I am hoping it will not damage as easily. I am only spraying risers and stringers. I usually use SW pro classic and Renner water based primer.

 

[sancho57]

I used a 1.5 N/N to spray it I have a appolo spray set up so i dont know what cap you'd use for yours

 

[tiralie]

I recently purchased the Gf enduro white poly and would like to know what spray setup to use. My current sprayers are Graco Ultra and Fuji Mini Mite 4. I haven't has a chance to play around with it yet so hoping someone can get me started. I plan on spraying my stairs as I am hoping it will not damage as easily. I am only spraying risers and stringers. I usually use SW pro classic and Renner water based primer.

I used the 1.5mm cap set on my Fuji Q4 with a pressure pot at 10PSI. Sprays really well.
This is a photo of a credenza I made in the clients home with a polishing pad on the Rotex polishing the high gloss white poly.

 

[alexalexalex]

I recently purchased the Gf enduro white poly and would like to know what spray setup to use. My current sprayers are Graco Ultra and Fuji Mini Mite 4. I haven't has a chance to play around with it yet so hoping someone can get me started. I plan on spraying my stairs as I am hoping it will not damage as easily. I am only spraying risers and stringers. I usually use SW pro classic and Renner water based primer.

I used the 1.5mm cap set on my Fuji Q4 with a pressure pot at 10PSI. Sprays really well.
This is a photo of a credenza I made in the clients home with a polishing pad on the Rotex polishing the high gloss white poly.

Can I ask what pads/compounds/paper you used to polish the white poly? I have to polish some enduro black poly and it's been somewhat of a struggle to get a perfect result

 

[tiralie]

Can I ask what pads/compounds/paper you used to polish the white poly? I have to polish some enduro black poly and it's been somewhat of a struggle to get a perfect result

I used Menzerna Polishing Paste polishing. I followed the directions sanding with wet sanding on my rotex and finish polishing with a sheep skin polishing pad which is what you see in the photo. The key is to wait for at least a week before you start the process to make sure the coating is completely cured. As you are polishing black, I would wait longer as black takes longer to cure.
Alternatively there are other waterbourne coatings such as Renner (2K) that cure harder and are less prone to burn through.

 

[alexalexalex]

Can I ask what pads/compounds/paper you used to polish the white poly? I have to polish some enduro black poly and it's been somewhat of a struggle to get a perfect result

I used Menzerna Polishing Paste polishing. I followed the directions sanding with wet sanding on my rotex and finish polishing with a sheep skin polishing pad which is what you see in the photo. The key is to wait for at least a week before you start the process to make sure the coating is completely cured. As you are polishing black, I would wait longer as black takes longer to cure.
Alternatively there are other waterbourne coatings such as Renner (2K) that cure harder and are less prone to burn through.

Thanks a lot for the tip!! Did you use multiple pads to progress through the compounds or just cleaned your pad between them?

Edit to add another question : what lubricant did you use for wet sanding? General Finishes says not to use water and recommends mineral spirits, but I haven't much chance with them to be honest

 

[tiralie]

Thanks a lot for the tip!! Did you use multiple pads to progress through the compounds or just cleaned your pad between them?

Yes, 3 different pads for the Menzerna polishing with the FES-496151 Stickfix 150mm. I used the soft stixfix 150 pad with the plantin abrasives. I think I set my Rotex at 2-3.
Tim

 

[alexalexalex]

Thanks a lot for the tip!! Did you use multiple pads to progress through the compounds or just cleaned your pad between them?

Yes, 3 different pads for the Menzerna polishing with the FES-496151 Stickfix 150mm. I used the soft stixfix 150 pad with the plantin abrasives. I think I set my Rotex at 2-3.
Tim

Thanks a lot, last question and then I'm out of your hair, what lubricant did you use for wet sanding? General Finishes says not to use water and recommends mineral spirits, but I haven't had much chance with it to be honest

 

[Packard]

I spray Benjamin-Moore Advance.  The white gloss dries very hard (dark colors, not so much even after a month of cure time).

Do you think the Advance in high gloss would respond well to polishing?  I might give that a try if it seems reasonable. 

 

[tiralie]

Thanks a lot, last question and then I'm out of your hair, what lubricant did you use for wet sanding? General Finishes says not to use water and recommends mineral spirits, but I haven't had much chance with it to be honest

Don’t worry about questions, that’s how we learn and that really is the best part of the forum.
I used water, sprayed on with a Birchmeier sprayer which I really like. Water worked well, just don’t over do it. I cleaned the surface with a cloth after every grit, checked for an even scuff and moved to the next level abrasive.
Like I said previously if I was to do this today I would use a 2K WB poly, as they are harder and would polish well.
Tim

 

[Packard]

Are there not health concerns with the 2K polys? 

The polyisocyanate is supposed to be the culprit.

 

[alexalexalex]

Thanks a lot, last question and then I'm out of your hair, what lubricant did you use for wet sanding? General Finishes says not to use water and recommends mineral spirits, but I haven't had much chance with it to be honest

Don’t worry about questions, that’s how we learn and that really is the best part of the forum.
I used water, sprayed on with a Birchmeier sprayer which I really like. Water worked well, just don’t over do it. I cleaned the surface with a cloth after every grit, checked for an even scuff and moved to the next level abrasive.
Like I said previously if I was to do this today I would use a 2K WB poly, as they are harder and would polish well.
Tim

Thanks, that's very good to know! Will look into 2k coatings, I have been a bit unhappy with Enduro so I'm looking forward to trying something new.

 

[tiralie]

Thanks, that's very good to know! Will look into 2k coatings, I have been a bit unhappy with Enduro so I'm looking forward to trying something new.

If you can't get a 2K because they are rated "industrial" Fine paints of Europe Hollandac Brilliant is a very good high gloss solution.
Attached is my front door painted with Fine Paints of Europe Hollandac Brilliant. FoPE is a solvent based paint, and this door was painted with a brush.

 

[tiralie]

Are there not health concerns with the 2K polys? 

The polyisocyanate is supposed to be the culprit.

Isocyanates are a problem which is why they must be sprayed wearing a carbon filter (organic vapor) respirator or a supplied air system in a (negative air) spray booth for best results and safety.

 

[tiralie]

Thanks, that's very good to know! Will look into 2k coatings, I have been a bit unhappy with Enduro so I'm looking forward to trying something new.

Also, Renner sells a https://tlfinish.com/product/renner-italia-1k-water-base-white-acrylic-urethane-topcoat-c005-sbn/ 1K waterbase highgloss which you could also use. You would need an airless to spray these pigmented coatings.
https://www.instagram.com/p/Cbun5HHFmtO/

 

[alexalexalex]

Thanks, that's very good to know! Will look into 2k coatings, I have been a bit unhappy with Enduro so I'm looking forward to trying something new.

If you can't get a 2K because they are rated "industrial" Fine paints of Europe Hollandac Brilliant is a very good high gloss solution.
Attached is my front door painted with Fine Paints of Europe Hollandac Brilliant. FoPE is a solvent based paint, and this door was painted with a brush.

Looks great!!

 

[Packard]

I painted a exterior door in high gloss black by using Rustoleum rattle cans.  I think I used three cans (maybe 4).  Very shiny. 

I took the door off the hinges and laid it flat so no runs and I was able to lay down a good heavy coat that self-leveled.  It is important that you do this in moderate weather and in the shade.  If the sun hits it, it will dry too fast and not level. 

After it is dry to the touch, you can put it out in the sun for a faster cure.  Don't put it back up too quickly or the paint will stick to the jambs and peel off. 

It was a steel door, so Rustoleum made perfect sense.  It worked so well, I will use it to repaint my front door this year (also black, also high gloss). 

Three cans is less than $20.00 + primer $6.00. = $26.00.  Application was easy while the door was flat on its back. 

Fine Paints of Europe will cost well over $100.00 to paint one front door using their primer and their thinner (everything I read says to stay with FPE throughout the process).  The odor is supposed to be horrific, so not something you would want to do indoors.  Dry times are really long and cure time is supposed to be 7 days according to what I've read. 

 

[tiralie]

It was a steel door, so Rustoleum made perfect sense.  It worked so well, I will use it to repaint my front door this year (also black, also high gloss). 

Three cans is less than $20.00 + primer $6.00. = $26.00.  Application was easy while the door was flat on its back. https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/support/intel-driver-support-assistant.html

Sounds like a very creative solution.

Fine Paints of Europe will cost well over $100.00 to paint one front door using their primer and their thinner (everything I read says to stay with FPE throughout the process).  The odor is supposed to be horrific, so not something you would want to do indoors.  Dry times are really long and cure time is supposed to be 7 days according to what I've read.

I don't agree that the odor is "horrific" but that is a a subjective term. I have some sensitivity to harsh solvents, and this did not bother me. It is always important to use solvent based finishes in a well ventilated area which I did and hence less odor than others have experienced. As noted your mileage may vary. Yes, the basic cure time is 7 days, but it does take longer to "fully cure".
Tim