Gluing Leather To MDF

[Rutabagared]

Hello,
I plan to glue leather to 1/4" MDF for door panels of a sideboard.  The leather is upholstery leather that I used on a set of chairs that will go with this set.  Is titebond 3 a good option?  Also, for the "backer", I was just going to use a standard Ash veneer (not paper backed) to match the piece.  Any issues with balancing?  Any advice would be greatly appreciated.  Thanks.

 

[Formally Kevin Fester]

Contact cement would be a good choice . The sprayable kind would be best . Buy a gallon and use a cup gun. Not the spray can kind .

 

[Michael Kellough]

I would use 3M #77 spray adhesive. Comes in a rattle can and can be found at most hardware stores.

 

[Packard]

I agree with Michael K. 3M 77.  I’ve used it often when I had my picture framing shop. Easy to use.  Lumps and bumps on the adhesive will telegraph through the leather.  For that reason alone, I would not use a brush on adhesive. 

Regular rubber cement makes a good adhesive for thick (belt thickness) leather.  Contact cement is going to be stronger than the leather.  Overkill. 

 

[Rutabagared]

Thanks for the suggestions.  I'll  try the 3m77 (I use it often) and some tightbond and report back.  I have no contact cement right now but will run a sample next time I have some available.  I'm not overly concerned about lumps because I'm going to use a vacuum press.  Thanks again.

Joe

 

[GregorHochschild]

For contact cement, I would use water-based to avoid the vapors. Like this one:https://www.homedepot.com/p/Wilsonart-32-fl-oz-Construction-Adhesive-WA-20OWH1QUART/202272677
3M has a similar product but it's more expensive.

Do keep in mind that the application of contact cement is more challenging and time consuming than titebond because you have to place it perfectly the first time. Once the leather touches the substrates, you can't move it anymore. Not that hard if the leather is stiff. Might be more difficult if it is not but I don't have experience with that. It certainly is more time consuming because you have to apply the adhesive to both sides and because you have to take more care in the whole process.

 

[Michael Kellough]

For contact cement, I would use water-based to avoid the vapors. Like this one:https://www.homedepot.com/p/Wilsonart-32-fl-oz-Construction-Adhesive-WA-20OWH1QUART/202272677
3M has a similar product but it's more expensive.

Do keep in mind that the application of contact cement is more challenging and time consuming than titebond because you have to place it perfectly the first time. Once the leather touches the substrates, you can't move it anymore. Not that hard if the leather is stiff. Might be more difficult if it is not but I don't have experience with that. It certainly is more time consuming because you have to apply the adhesive to both sides and because you have to take more care in the whole process.

Since he is working with mdf I wouldn’t use a water based glue except on joints. For a broad surface I would worry that the wet glue might blister the mdf and it could show in the way the leather lays.

 

[Packard]

I’m late to the conversation, but a quick coat of SealCoat on all surfaces will resolve any moisture issues.  It dries in about 20 minutes and glue sticks to it just fine.  Or any dewaxed shellac. 

I have a dry mounting press and I would probably just dry mount it.  It’s what I’m used to.