Good tools can't prevent bad technique

[Crazyraceguy]

I just watched a YouTube video on a channel called Bevelish Creations. He was building a small file cabinet.
It's a pretty simple little project. He waited until the case was assembled to route a rabbet into the back.
Not my favorite, but ok. First he shows a rabbeting bit with a bearing, in his hand.  Then he shows actually the cutting. He is using an OF1400, with the edge guide.....on the outside of the case! Somehow he has the cabinet side trapped between the bearing and the edge guide. I was stunned. What does he think is going to happen when he gets to the corner? I just can't imagine doing a cut like that? and showing people?
I'm guessing that he somehow feels like that it's more stable? (Having the edge guide)
I've seen some "so called" experts do some dumb stuff, but this one is really out there.

I have no idea how to link it here, sorry

 

[PaulMarcel]

Yeah, not going to work at the corners. Plus I'm thinking about the common warning of never putting a board between the bit and the fence on a router table.

The few times I put the rabbet in an assembled carcass like that, I did it with a bearing bit in the router table. Seems so much easier if the carcass moves well on the table.

 

[ChuckM]

Snip.

He waited until the case was assembled to route a rabbet into the back.
Not my favorite, but ok. First he shows a rabbeting bit with a bearing, in his hand.  Then he shows actually the cutting. He is using an OF1400, with the edge guide.....on the outside of the case! Snip.

I find routing rabbets in an assembled case risky. Although one can clamp a spacer to the case to provide support for the router base, it's extra work. So I always rabbet the case (through and blindly) on the table saw. I've seen Norm Abram route a finished cabinet freehand, and I admire how steadily he could do that.

 

[guybo]

it seems to have worked, copy scanner and 1010 my choice, use it to repair door panels

 

[Svar]

If I'm doing rabbet on assembled cabinet my preference is a bearing bit with: 1) router table, 2) extended router base that spans all the way to the opposite wall of the cabinet, 3) support block clamped to the outside of the cabinet. The first option is very safe and controlled, because of the mass of the assembly.
I don't even square the corners afterwards. If the cabinet is anything close to midcentury modern, rounded corners in the back panel look great.
Obviously, trapping workpiece between the bit and the fence is absolute NO.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

That's it, Thank you [member=58842]guybo[/member]

[member=15585]Svar[/member] Those would be my choices.
Most of what I build in a commercial cabinet shop environment is too big to do it with a router table, but I would if I could.
For me the long sub-base that reaches the opposite side of the case works best.
The clamped on support block is better than nothing, but still not ideal. It does offer more support, but you still end up with more than 50% of the router base hanging off. It can still tip down.