Graco Ultra

[tjbnwi]

I finally met with a lab tech from BM and they reviewed one of my panels and found that the panell was laced with white specs giving it  a rough feel and pitted surface. My question to him was, how do we get white specs when the paint colour is grey? Jis answer good question. We are stumped.

Well after much discussion and more testing, the BM reps in my area have basically thrown up their hands. They want to do more lab work at head office in Montreal, I think that is where head office is, but that could take up to 6 months before any concrete solution comes out of them. They did admit though that changing there formulas quite often in the last 12 months to reach zero VOC compliance has caused issues with other painters. Even their Gennex colouring system in now zero VOC compliant.

I have started to look at othe paint suppliers for an alternate solution. Sherwin Williams has released a new product, Emerald Urethane Trim Enamel which is water base but the issue I'm having is all of the SW retailers, even their commercial store, only carry the white and not any of the tint bases. It must be a Canadian thing.

Looked at Target Coatings for their EM6500 water-based Acrylic pigmented lacquer which is spray and brush friendly but no one in Canada carries it. See the issue is I need to find a product that I can spray and brush as there is a lot of brush work on this project.

Now many people have recommended that I spray the doors with a pigmented lacquer and then create a custom match for the crushable paint. Now this sounds pretty easy but the issue is that the pigmented lacquer will fade, change colour, yellow over a period of 6 months where the brushable acrylic paint will not. Thus this solution is not going to work either.

Maybe I can convince the client that I can paint them by hand and that orange peel generated by the roller sleeve is coming back in style. I think I have a better chance of winning the lottery then convincing the client.

Cheers,
JC

I think the real issue is you need to move out of Canada.  [big grin]

Tom

 

[LDBecker]

I'm not a pro AT ALL, and haven't had a huge amount of success with spraying - off and on it's been fine. I don't even have a dedicated spray room - I'm using a large HomeRight spray shelter outside... On my current project, I decided to try to sort it out.

I have/use an older model Graco Fine Finish gun, but was having similar issues with spraying multiple coats of General Finishes Top Coat satin... I'm finally happy with the finish... Here's what I did:

-Use GF's sanding sealer. I'm working with hard maple and mdf panels with maple veneer. I first spray the panels with sealer and sand them before I assemble the doors. This seals the edges of the panels, and makes the initial sanding easier. Then I assemble the doors and spray the finish with the doors laying flat. I had hoped they could be hung vertically, but that largely guaranteed runs.
-Sand ONLY to 220 - any finer sanding and the finish has difficulty adhering to what's under it. It can't grab, and you get an odd finish
- kind of like what has been described. Sort of grainy, I guess. I HAD been sanding to 400, and was NOT happy at all. Going to 220 (per the instructions!)  is fine, and the final coat doesn't get/need sanding at all.
-Use finish extender (not thinner). This isn't so it can spray easier - These guns are more than powerful enough. It has to do with the way the finish DRIES. I use GF's Water based finish Extender. It seems to allow the finish to flow out better. Few, if any, drips, and the finish seems to lay/dry so much better.
-Turn the pressure down - I have my gun at about 2. You don't need a thick coat - multiple fine coats seems better.
-Use a fine nozzle. I am using a green 312 on my gun.

So, to add to the discussion - don't sand beyond 220, use an extender for the material, put multiple fine coats on, experiment with the spray setting and nozzle, but go light.
I'm feeling confident enough now in my results to finish my project, and like what I'm getting. As it gets cooler here in southern CA, though, I find the finishes don't dry/cure outdoors. As soon as I spray, I bring them indoors to cure.

Hope this gives people something to think about. I am REALLY liking my Graco - even though it's the old one with the crappy (but replaced by Graco for free) batteries. I wouldn't hesitate in getting an Ultra when this one croaks.
Larry

 

[tiralie]

I think the real issue is you need to move out of Canada.  [big grin]

I tried, believe me I tried.
My wife is not keen on it so I haven't pursued it recently. Probably the only way now is the enter the Green card (diversity) lottery.
Tim

 

[Brice Burrell]

I think the real issue is you need to move out of Canada.  [big grin]

I tried, believe me I tried.
My wife is not keen on it so I haven't pursued it recently. Probably the only way now is the enter the Green card (diversity) lottery.
Tim

Tim, there's a simple solution.  Trade your wife in for an American counterpart.  Two birds with one stone. [tongue]

 

[Scott B.]

Well well well,
For a while now I have been experimenting with spraying BM Regal Select tinted grey with my Fuji Q5 and T70 gun and I have had no success. I've tried every combination of needle and cap sizes and different levels of thinning from 5% to 30% and with every needle from 1.3 up to 2.5. Four gallons later and I was not any further ahead then when I started.
So I went out and purchased the Graco Ultra and thought I would try airless instead. After 8 hours of drying time, the test panels looked great and I was overjoyed to have solved my problem. But, after 24 hours of curing the panels look like crap. The attached photo is what I'm getting.

Some of my panel are MDF and maple veneer plywood, primed twice with either Wall & Wood primer from Sherwing Williams, BM Advanced primer and Lenmar Duralack undercoater. It doesn't seem to matter what the primer I use I get the same results.

Back to the drawing board.

JC

What sheen is the Regal Select?

 

[JCLP]

Well well well,
For a while now I have been experimenting with spraying BM Regal Select tinted grey with my Fuji Q5 and T70 gun and I have had no success. I've tried every combination of needle and cap sizes and different levels of thinning from 5% to 30% and with every needle from 1.3 up to 2.5. Four gallons later and I was not any further ahead then when I started.
So I went out and purchased the Graco Ultra and thought I would try airless instead. After 8 hours of drying time, the test panels looked great and I was overjoyed to have solved my problem. But, after 24 hours of curing the panels look like crap. The attached photo is what I'm getting.

Some of my panel are MDF and maple veneer plywood, primed twice with either Wall & Wood primer from Sherwing Williams, BM Advanced primer and Lenmar Duralack undercoater. It doesn't seem to matter what the primer I use I get the same results.

Back to the drawing board.

JC

What sheen is the Regal Select?

Hi Scott,

Up here in Canada the sheen is Pearl. I believe you have Satin in the US.

Cheers,
JC

 

[JCLP]

Well the adventure continues.Using the following equipment.
Fuji Q5 Turbine
T70 Gun Siphon feed
3M PPS pressure cup instead of Fuji cup

Paint is BM Regal Select tinted to colour Stone Harbor 2111-50, sheen in Pearl. We don't have Satin up here in Canada and it does have a different sheen then the old Satin they use to have. I believe in the US it's still Satin.

Test that I have done are numerous, but I will try to summarize.
I have tried thinning 5, 6, 10, 12, 15, 20 25% using straight water, distilled, and the same with BM Extender. I have tried a combination of Extender with water. For example, 5% water and 5% Extender, 10% water and 5% extender, 10% extender 5 % water and so on. Combinations to numerous to list. Every one of these thin ratios have been tested with a 1.0, 1.3, 1.5, 1.8, 2.0, 2.5 needle and cap set with different levels of air on the turbine set at 60%, 75% and 100% for each needle size and thin ratio.
Primer used has been, BM Advance primer, SW Wall and Wood and Duralaq undercoater. Panel used were MDF and Maple ply.

When setting my fan pattern I try to get a 5-6"high and 1.5" width fan pattern that is misty on the outside. I attached a photo but remember it is sprayed on cardboard.

I have tried a single pass to achieve a 4 wet mils and two thin coats to achieve the required thickness with no success. The panels under all test look like crap. It doesn't matter what the primer is or what substrate I use. See attached photo.

I have tried the Graco Ultra, no thinning and 312 tip with same results.

I believe I'm doing something wrong. This worked a year ago on a kitchen I worked on as well as a project I completed in April of this year using the same paint and sheen but tinted BM Cloud White.

On Glass I get the same results as well.

Cheers,
JC

 

[Pnw painter]

Try brushing a sample. I'm curious if the same thing happens.

Personally, with all the issues you've had I'd try a different paint. If you like BM try Advance. Or try something from SW, PPG or General Finishes.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[tiralie]

Tim, there's a simple solution.  Trade your wife in for an American counterpart.  Two birds with one stone. [tongue]

Doubtful I would be lucky enough to get one as good as my present wife...

 

[JCLP]

It's all about the air.

Watched a video of a paint specialist who explained the difference between non VOC paints from years ago to VOC paints today. One very large negative about VOC paints is that they dry extremely quick due to the large solids in the paint. This causes huge problems, even when cutting and rolling a room. Also, these paints do not like air movement. Makes the paint flash to quickly.
Now by adding extenders to paint you are actually adding VOC's to it, thus reducing dry times. Water is not enough as it does not extend dry time it just makes it thinner.

Now for air. I noticed today that I had a lot of air flowing through the spray booth and over the panels that caused the paint to flash quickly. Instead of doing a large test panel, 24"x16", I decided to do a small one, 12x14, and made sure that my body was in front of the panel preventing too much air from moving over the panel. The end result was a perfect panel, no grit, no orange peel and an extremely smooth coat of paint.

So I adjusted the speeds of my fans to 1/3 of their capacity and tried a large panel. I did use a 1.8 needle, but if this works, I will try 1.5 and 1.3. I will know in about 8 hours.

Cheers,
JC

 

[JCLP]

Now for air. I noticed today that I had a lot of air flowing through the spray booth and over the panels that caused the paint to flash quickly. Instead of doing a large test panel, 24"x16", I decided to do a small one, 12x14, and made sure that my body was in front of the panel preventing too much air from moving over the panel. The end result was a perfect panel, no grit, no orange peel and an extremely smooth coat of paint.

Well spoke to soon. After a couple of days of drying everything went south, even the small panel mentioned above, which looked great after 5-6 hours, but several days later crap.

I'm giving up on this. I don't know if it's me or the paint. Everything I try gives me hope after 5-8 hours of drying, but a couple of days later it turns to crap.

With lots of money spent on paint and equipment over the last couple of months with no success, my wife has finally busted a bubble and I don't blame her. I'm walking away from this project and will try refunding the client's down deposit, they wouldn't take it before, and sell some of the spray stuff I have.

Thanks everyone for your help and ideas.

Cheers,
JC

 

[Heynicebits]

What size area are you spraying in? I’ve sprayed about 20 gallons if BM advance over the past year and the only time I have seen a decrease in spray quality is when I had to use a smaller, temporary spraying space with low ceilings  ~8ft. I spray with a 4 stage fuji and gxpc gun. With BM, I have to paddle mix the batch everyday as some of the heavier solids tend to drop down to the bottom. I thin with around 5% water- just enough to get it to strain cleanly (although slowly) through 100 mesh. I’ve sprayed lights and darks and there is no quality difference for me in the final product. The only tricky thing i’ve come across is spraying their primer. I have to jump to a size #5 air cap to get it to atomize correctly along with maybe 8-10% water added. I regularly use the #4 needle and cap with air control only at the gun, everything else wide open.

 

[escan]

What a royal pain...any chance to have someone local spray the same paint with their equipment to rule out any contamination on your rigs?

 

[Pnw painter]

JC, you’re right that too much air movement when you’re spraying can cause finish issues. It’s quite possible that this has been your issue all along. Along with turning down the air, try spraying with the air completely turned off.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[JCLP]

What a royal pain...any chance to have someone local spray the same paint with their equipment to rule out any contamination on your rigs?

I have been looking for someone for over a year with no success. I started another thread on spraying advance with fuji Q5 turbine and also asking there for help.

JC

 

[JCLP]

JC, you’re right that too much air movement when you’re spraying can cause finish issues. It’s quite possible that this has been your issue all along. Along with turning down the air, try spraying with the air completely turned off.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Good idea. I'll reduce the power of my exhaust fans and see what happens.

JC

 

[TXFIVEO]

Graco Ultra sprayed using BM Advance.

 

[Pnw painter]

JC, I can offer more/better advice if you post some pics or videos of your spray booth or you spraying.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[tiralie]

Graco Ultra sprayed using BM Advance.

That looks great!
Tim

 

[JCLP]

Graco Ultra sprayed using BM Advance.

Looks good. Do you remember what tip you used and what pressure setting. Did you thin, or straight out of the can.

JC