Guide rail alignment jig

[mhch]

alternative would be to use only one arm. It might take slightly longer to align the guide rail, but the distance would always be exactly the same.

No one such floating arm is a pain in the long run and that increases the risk of guide rail slippage.

The only good way to use a single arm is to have it guaranteed square with the guide rail,
which is slowly leading you to use an MFT, or to build something like what Corwin described
earlier in this thread

 

[mhch]

If you have the OF1400 you probably have these items already.  It is a combination of the edge guide, and guide stop.  You can get 16" with the standard rods.  It has the micro adjust built into the edge guide.  I am not sure it could be reliably squared. I have not actually tried it yet so it might be OK. But it sure might be handy  when the need comes up on a job site (if you have the router with you). Or for something that is not too finicky.

Can also use the 1010 micro adjuster with johne's wooden arm.
(see Jerry's document on using it for he MFK 700).

 

[UCLA Fan]

... The ony thing that i didn't like was the fact that you need to measure twice (once for each arm) To solve this i made a "measuring stick"
.....

No need to measure twice just set one fence then use it to set the other fence. Just like setting up two combination squares, adjust end of each to the other fence

Frank

 

[johne]

Here 's some pics of that measuring stick i made, It holds a tape measure

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You can set the distance by viewing from the top Here I set it at 22.5 cm

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Next adjust the jig to the measuring stick by sliding the block. Repeat for second jig

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[johne]

As you can see the jigs hold on the rail by themselves by friction

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put the rail on the panel and slide it until arms touch the side of panel

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Remove jig and cut (I didnt use clamps on the guide rail for this cut)

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This is the result, There is still a tiny difference but it's good enough for me (measurements are on top and bottom of the panel)

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[mhch]

Did you try to exchange the two jigs to check that the discrepancy
results from a manufacturing variation between them ?

 

[johne]

mhch

Yes i did that if you look at the pics closely i marked the arms and their location as A and B and did some subsequent cuts.
The cut from arm B Is slightly longer (what you see in last pic). I suppose i could shim this out but i ll leave it as it is for now.

 

[johne]

It is pretty quick to setup too, making the measurement and setting both jigs takes about 50 seconds
I timed it. ;D

 

[johne]

Copying an existing panel is easier with the measuring stick

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[UCLA Fan]

HI Johne,

I think you might be over complicating your setup. The use of the measuring stick is a bit redundant and adds one more step and hence one more potential for cumulative error. If you use just one of your original jigs to measure your panel then use that to setup the jig it would be fast and have even fewer opportunities for added error. The reality is your original jig is BOTH a cut guide and a measuring stick already. I did a quick sketchup to show what I mean and here are a few pics of that file. BTW it is not exactly to scale but does give a good general perspective. I added the "LIP" from my earlier post but it would work the same with or without the lip. One other thought on the "measuring stick"... you could change it just a bit to allow the tape to sit flush with the surface there by eliminating the sag of the tape.

I hope this makes sense???

Frank

 

[UCLA Fan]

ok I should explain a bit more....

You would measure directly with jig A (or a measuring tape then set Jig A to match). Then use Jig A to set Jig B. No need to remeasure for Jib B - fast and extremely accurate.

Frank

 

[johne]

Lol UCLA Fan,

I believe you re right. It just never occured to me  to align the two jigs the way you described. Thanks for making my measuring stick redundant.
and thanks for pointing that out.

Slapping myself on the head now. ;D ;D ;D

 

[UCLA Fan]

Ahhh I knew you would see it soon.

Well we all have a bit of the "Rube Goldburg" effect now and then

What I love most about this jig is its simplicity NICE JOB!!!

Frank

p.s. I usually have to wait for my wife to slap me upside the head before I get much

 

[johne]

Now that you pointed its simplicity out to me i love it too.
You gave me the best laugh i had all day ;D

 

[johne]

If anyone wants to make this jig, it is very easy to do there is only one critical measurement and that is shown in the pic i stole from UCLA Fan.
In my case this measurement was 120.5mm (I made the jig for a ts 75 with the 36 tooth universal blade, kerf 2.4mm) all other dimensions are pretty much arbitrary. (keep everything square of course) The jig also works on the old style rails. I have some of them that i got with my ATF 55 and i will try and see how accurate this is.

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[mhch]

The less measurement, the better 
It seems to me that you can avoid making the "critical 120.5 mm measurement" by
using the following procedure to build the two A blocks.

- prepare them longer than the guide rail width (that's what you do anyway)

- route the dadoo that runs on the rail hat, one in  each block

- remove the black adhesive anti-slippage rubber strips under the rail,
    No need to remove them all, only a small section about twice the width of
    the A blocks. You can notice the small protuberance under the rail which
    is exactly aligned with the hat on the other side.
 
- install both A blocks under the rail, inserting the protuberance in the dadoos

- run the saw on the rail to cut the two blocks. Now the edges will be perfectly
  aligned with the blade

- re-install the removed adhesive strip sections.

 

[johne]

Great idea Mhch,

The simpler the better. I ll give that a try
This would also accomodate for the different kerf widths. Make a few blocks for the different blades you use.

 

[mhch]

Make sure to have more wood under the rail than only the 2 A blocks to be cut,
for two reasons

- avoid the A blocks to slip by resting them against some wood.
  They are too small not to slip if alone under the rail.

-  avoid the saw and rail to wobble because not supported enough

 

[Sparky977]

Here's what I was working on before Steve started his thread on the MFT holes.  Just one of a few methods to do this using Incra Tracks.  This one utilizes piano hinges to speed up the operation.  Works fast and as accurate as anything else I've tried. 

The LS Positionor is a nice unit that can also be used for some similar operations.  Earlier rack-based versions can be converted for metric use (and back, if need be.)  The positionors are simple to align either on or off the MFT.  But, I do like the Track.  One day, I'll actually post that review I've been threatening, as there several neat things about these products.

Oops, almost forgot to include tonight's shot:

More to come...
Corwin

I'm new around here.  I love the look of your setup corwin.  Is there a post with more detailed pics and details about it somewhere?

Scott

 

[Corwin]

I'm new around here.  I love the look of your setup corwin.  Is there a post with more detailed pics and details about it somewhere?

Scott

Thanks!  Sorry, but the answer is currently, no.  I do plan to show this and more sometime soon...  well, I hope it is soon. 

This is a jig I had been working on awhile back -- still needed to add some handles with incorporated keepers to hold the Guide Rail in the up position until ready to flip in place.  The base on this version is something under 54-3/4" x 39" and sports a 48" piano hinge in a rebate that matches the height of the Guide Rail.  It accepts my 75" or 118" Guide Rails for longer cuts (sized for 5'x5' or 4'x8' sheet goods).  Swapping out Guide Rails is just as simple as changing out the Incra Tracks.  Change to a longer Track, or swap between Imperial and metric quickly.  I use 1-2-3 blocks to set the Tracks back 2" (3" works too) as one needs about 5/8" clearance for the TS55 and well over an inch for the TS75 to clear on deeper cuts -- this way my various Tracks and jigs can be quickly interchanged without need to recalibrate, if you see where I'm going...

In use one sets the stops alike, slides the jig in place so the stops align with a fresh edge.  Stops can be adjusted for depth, if you will, so you can set them shorter than the thickness of your material to not interfere with a cutting table below, or set longer where you then need to have your material hanging over an edge -- either way.  Flip the Rail in postion and cut.  For next cut, flip Rail back, lift and carry jig to other side of material and start process again -- note this method leaves both sides cut on the left of the blade too.  For those on the go, you can transport Guide Rails, Incra Tracks and jig base separately and quickly assemble on site and as needed.

A smaller version around 36"x39" with 30" hinge is nice for shorter cuts/Rails.  My next version will be a little different -- more of a single jig where you swap parts to change sizes -- but that will come (and work with) the MFT jigs.  Yep, and a few more ways to use the Incra Tracks.  But, like this jig for parallel uses, you can make a similar unit for those 90 degree cuts -- just a little different, and works similar.  Then a sled type jig for those narrow cuts...

Fun stuff!
Corwin