Guide Rail Anti-Splinter Strip - Blade Dependent?

[smorgasbord]

With different blades having different blade body thicknesses and different kerf thicknesses, does anyone here think they need to dedicate certain guide rails to certain saw/blade combos?

Given the geometry of most track saws, the fixed flange of the arbor locates the "inside" of the blade at the same point every time. But, if the different between the carbide tip thickness and the blade body thickness is different (the tip "overhang" so to speak), then the anti-splinter strip edge won't be in exactly the same place. Like if you've got a 1.5mm body and a 1.8mm kerf for one blade (0.15mm overhang), and a 1.8mm body and 2.4mm kerf (.3mm overhang) for another blade [I just made those numbers up], then the trimmed anti-splitter strip would be in different places.

Now, that's just 0.15mm difference, so maybe in practice it doesn't matter. Anyway, just wondering.

While I'm in OCD mode, also wondering about the blade angle pivot. While track saws are designed to pivot at the anti-splinter strip, is that at the top of the strip or at the bottom? I'm assuming at the bottom, at least that's where I would choose to place it, as that doesn't cut any more of the strip but still has the strip performing its duty. And, wondering how well different brands/models get this right/wrong.

 

[cpw]

If you use your rails with more than one saw, then you need to calibrate all of the saws to the rails.

Checkout page 22 of the supplemental manual for the TS55. Not all saws have the same procedure, but do have the same concepts. If you call support they'll help you. I needed some advice for doing my HKC55 to match my TS75, and the tech support was able to answer my questions.

https://www.festoolusa.com/-/media/tts/fcp/festool-usa/downloads/manuals/festool-ts55req-supplemental-manual.pdf

 

[tjbnwi]

Years ago I made this fixture to match my saws. It allows you to set the inside of the blade in the same location and set the toe in. I used one of my R model saws (2.2 mm blade) to make the kerf, the R model has less adjustment than the EQ.

I have set my original EQ’s (2) all of the R’s (4) I own, 55C (1), the 75 (1) and the new 60 I have. I have also matched a few saws owned by others I know. It has worked flawlessly on every saw.

For the base I used HDPE for stability, the track is a piece I cut off of something.

Most important parts of the process are, saw is unplugged or the batteries are out, loosen the base and adjusting the gibs to the rail prior to gently lowering the saw.

Tom

 

[Crazyraceguy]

That's pretty slick Tom, wish I had thought of it. Mine are all calibrated to match each other, using a freshly cut FS800. Interestingly, all 3 of them (TS55, 60, & 75) are very different, in the way it is done.
@smorgasbord the kerf width of the blade is not the factor you are really asking about. Where it matters, is the off-set of the teeth to the plate. That blade could be much wider, as long as the plate thickness grows with the tooth width, the edge of the cut remains the same. Another factor to consider is the riving knife. A thin blade wouldn't allow it to drop into place, with a wide blade, it may not perform correctly.
The mounting flange of the saw arbor is the reference face. It's not like a wider blade would keep the same centerline of the cut, unless of course, the width change is only in the teeth.
I would hope that the Festool engineers would compensate for this? but maybe not, if it keeps us replacing the strip?
I don't think I would necessarily blindly trust after-market blades to do that. Be sure to check that.
I have a dedicated zero degree rake triple-chip blade, to cut Corian, for the TS55. It is a bit thicker, 2.4mm? something like that, and the much thinner TS60 blades work equally well, as far as the rails are concerned.
All of the Festool saws, that I have used, pivot to the bottom of the splinter strip. Again, not blindly trusting the other brands.

 

[smorgasbord]

If you use your rails with more than one saw, then you need to calibrate all of the saws to the rails.

Not talking different saws, talking different blades on the same saw.

@smorgasbord the kerf width of the blade is not the factor you are really asking about. Where it matters, is the off-set of the teeth to the plate.

Yes, that's what I called the "overhang" in my post. I even gave an example. If the set of teeth is different on different blades, then where the strip is cut will be different. It should be easily calculated from the blade's body thickness and the kerf.

To give a real example, this blade has a 1.3mm thick body and a 1.8mm kerf.
But, this blade has a 1.0mm thick body and a 1.4mm kerf

So the Offset/set/overhangs are different.

 

[Packard]

Similarly, I had matching zero clearance inserts for my table saw blades—also not interchangeable.

 

[Cheese]

Festool Panther Blade Tooth Overhang Equal:
Here's a great example of 2 Festool Panther blades having the same tooth overhang. One's the original 2.2 mm kerf blade and the other is the newer 1.8 mm kerf blade.

However, the tooth overhang for each blade is .31 mm per side.

 

[Cheese]

Festool Aluminum Blade Tooth Overhang Different:
Here's an example of 2 Festool aluminum blades having a different amount of tooth overhang. Again one's the original 2.2 mm kerf blade and the other is the newer 1.8 mm kerf blade.

The tooth overhang is .215 mm per side for the 2.2 blade and .33 mm per side for the 1.8 blade. The difference in tooth overhang is readily seen in the 3rd photo.