Guide rail corner bend

[Yes]

Hi all, picked up a new 1900 guide rail today, and on getting it home and checking it over, noticed what appears to be bend at one corner.. It's noticeably rounded over, and also tapers slightly with a clear lip to the extrusion on the outer cut edge of the underside - to me it looks like a manufacturer error rather than damage.

I'm looking for some advice from those more clued in than me as this seems to be the last 1900 rail available until late May (according to Festool Australia). With that in mind, I'm thinking I could make the end with the bend the starting side for cuts, I doubt I'd cut that close to the edge with the required overhang anyway. But I'm unsure how it impacts the rest of the rail, if at all?

 

[AlexThePalex]

Hammer it straight.

 

[Yes]

Hammer it straight.

I could do that - but I'd also need to file some of the profile on the under side to gain a flat reference point - although if I used an anvil it's like to just compress the bottom. But I do have concerns about hammering what should be a precision tool.
Also, hammering doesn't address the taper at the edge... But as I say, when connecting rails I can simply use the other end and use the tapered end as the drop in.

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[AlexThePalex]

It is not that edge that makes the precision, it is the protrusion the saw rides on that makes it precise.

I understand the imperfection of that corner is very irritating and not what you want with a brand new piece of equipment, and in normal times it would be best to just send it back and ask for a replacement. You can still do that, but will probably take a looooong time before you get another.

I would just hammer and file it flat so it is exactly in plane with the rest of the rail.

 

[Bob D.]

To remove the hook will require pulling back the splinter guard and reattaching
once fixed.

"I'm thinking I could make the end with the bend the starting side for cuts..."

I don't understand how you can use this end of the rail to start your cuts. Festool
tracks are one way, meaning the saw can only travel one way  over the track.
This end will always be the end of the cut.

When I bought my TSC55 3 years ago one of my tracks was mangled a bit too.
The t-slot was mashed down so far at one end that the track clamps would not
even start to enter the t-slot. Took about 15 minutes to fix by carefully massaging 
it back into shape and now unless I told you where to look you'd never notice it.

 

[Yes]

Of course! It needs to be orientated as the end point.
I guess that's not an issue either, as you want that overhang at the end.

Question... When connecting rails, does it matter which size rail is first? Is a 1080 first joined to a 1900 any different to a 1900 joined to an 1080?

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[chrisrosenb]

As Alex said, hammer it out. If you do you need to do it on a hard steel surface.

If it is just the corner, I do no see a problem using it as it. If you join it to another rail, put it on the other end.

 

[Bertotti]

All that bit does is support the splinter guard that is over the cut. Flatten it even it out along the edge no blade rides against it and it is at the very end. No harm done, if new take it back and get a replacement or just fix it. It is the downward curve I would be concerned with and it will flatten easily.

 

[wmarazita]

Maybe you could report it now to the dealer that you bought it from and they would allow you to use the rail as is until a new one comes into stock and then replace it for you at that time? The dealer wouldn't be able to sell that track as new if they were able to exchange it now anyway. During these weird times, they may accommodate this request. That way, you can use it until a new one comes in for you. Personally I wouldn't feel comfortable hammering it fearing that it would never align properly with another track if I wanted to connect it to another.

 

[Bertotti]

Get it straight and alignment shouldn't be an issue when connecting tracks you really shouldn't be butting the two pieces up together anyway. I always leave a little gap and let the connectors do the work. Use a good straight edge or your saw to help alignment if needed.

 

[jeffinsgf]

I agree with Just Bill. Talk to the dealer about getting a new one on order with an agreement to future exchange. If he has any ethics, he wouldn't sell it as new if you returned it now, and Festool will make it good to him, so what's the harm in you using it for a couple months?

It is in an area where it shouldn't affect much, but it would annoy me to no end.

 

[Svar]

I would true it with pliers and forget about whole thing 1 minute later. Sure, premium product, return and all, but I also value my time.

 

[Michael Kellough]

Of course! It needs to be orientated as the end point.
I guess that's not an issue either, as you want that overhang at the end.

Question... When connecting rails, does it matter which size rail is first? Is a 1080 first joined to a 1900 any different to a 1900 joined to an 1080?

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Yes, the bigger rail goes first but in this case the longer rail is not necessarily the bigger rail. What counts as bigger here is the width of the rail spine the saw is guided by.

The spines are supposed to all be the same width but in the reality of extrusion they vary slightly so adjust the saw guide gibs to the bigger spine and put it first when joining rails.

 

[Yes]

I would true it with pliers and forget about whole thing 1 minute later. Sure, premium product, return and all, but I also value my time.

I'd usually be of this mind... But due to the deformation on the bottom, it's going to need to be filed flat. It is as if there are two edges, one where the splinter guard buts up against, and this deformed one.
I'm going to call the store this morning and see if they'll agree to let me use it while the new one comes in. Otherwise, I'll return it and wait for a new 1900.
Cheers.

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