Guide rail problem - not laying flat

elekes.adam

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Jan 13, 2020
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Has anyone ever experienced a problem like this?
 

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both mine do this, I wondered if it was from them getting cooked in the roof of my van. I had a long shelf for trims and things up high that these lived on. thats the only thing I could think of.

I'd like to know the answer!
 
Ilovemyras115 said:
both mine do this, I wondered if it was from them getting cooked in the roof of my van. I had a long shelf for trims and things up high that these lived on. thats the only thing I could think of.

I bought two of the 1400 rails for the TS55.
These are brand new, they were in the original packaging a few days ago.
Both are crooked this way.

I also bought an LR32 1400 rail which is perfectly flat on the surface.
 
mkasdin said:
what happens when they are clamped on both sides? Still whacked?

If I clamp the rail, it lays on the two anti-slip pads because the clamping pressure is between them. This way the splinter-guard is elevated from the workpiece.
 
Mine are similar when resting, but the weight of the saw puts the splinter guard down on the surface of the wood.

Andrew
 
Customer service replaced both crooked guide rails without hesitation and any further questions.
The new ones are laying perfectly flat on the workpiece.  [smile]
 
Interesting. I also have this problem with a new rail. I wonder if there was a bad batch?
 
+1 for roseland

The rails are designed to be this way - when there is no weight the anti-slip pads are able to "hold" the rail a bit in the air.

The idea is that for the anti slip pads to be - well, anti-slip - they must get some pressure to the surface so have to protrude a bit. Once a saw is put in place with a bit of pressure, the the pad does not hold the weight as it is on the rail protrusions on the bottom (next to the anti-slip pad) and the splinter guard edge as the two contact points which create the proper angle with the saw blade.
That is the only way one can have anti-slip (needs pressure on the rubber) AND accurate/repeatable angle (courtesy of the non-squeezable hard surfaces of the Alu protrusion and splinter guard).

I have played with Makita and other no-name rails for our community workshop, and this design detail is what makes the Festool rails superior in sticking to the material - so clamps are not needed 99% of the time.

/Besides the fact they do not come bent from factory (looking at you Makita!)./

jamex101 said:
I wonder if there was a bad batch?
It can be, but one needs to be careful with distinguishing how the rail "lays" and what is the actual shape of the extrusion.

All 3 of my rails are a "bit" of in air, when just placed on material (think 0.2mm / 0.001"), when clamped (normal pressure), they get even more "in the air", up to 1mm or so. When actually used by a saw/router etc. the splinter guard gets to still be the pressure point and I get perfect cuts even from lamino.

To make a true assessment one would need a detailed measurement of the unloaded extrusion, without any effect of clamps, pads or splinter guard.

Either way, quality service is part of the Festool price - so you did the best thing you could by getting them replaced when not satisfied.
;)
 
That can also happen if the rail is significantly longer that the piece being cut. The weight of the rail overhanging can bow up the middle. Of course the weight of the saw and pushing it down will push this down, but it doesn't help with the accurate placement or keeping the anti-slip strips in contact at all times. I always use the shortest rail possible for just this reason.
 
To close out my comment, and for anyone else who comes across this - I had a chat with the rep in my area who confirmed it should sit flat when in use, and the shop switched mine out for a brand new one.

This one's the same as everyone else has described: normally sits on the non-slip strips without the saw (splinter guard slightly in the air) and the weight of the saw pulls the splinter guard flush with the workpiece when installed.
 
Overtime the anti skid rubber flattens out so it’s less of an issue. you do need to be mindful when moving the saw on the rail flat during a cut, so you don’t have micro adjustments and a waffley edge that’s not dead flat.
 
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