Guide rail size opinions wanted

[UncleJoe]

Help me think this through.

I currently have a FS1400 and a FS1400 LR32 which I combine when cutting full sheets and it gives me a 110 inch rail. This setup works very well for me but I am going through a process improvement phase in my shop and if I had one long rail I would not have to stop my work to join or un-join the rails when preparing stock.

So if I purchase a FS 3000 at $335 I would have an 118" rail to go along with my others that would be nice until I have to transport it and with a new grandson 2 hours away I think I will be taking some tools up there to build stuff for my daughters family.

On the other hand I can just buy another FS1400 for $133  and semi permanently join the two together and that would give me a 110" rail and a 55" rail. At today's prices if I go this route I would opt for the FS1400 -LR32.

Any reason to do something else. I am looking for any ideas or even just confirmation that this will work without an issue. Is there a compelling reason to purchase the FS 3000 over another FS 1400. I know long diagonals might be one but that is all I can think of. For me there is not really enough difference in the cost verse having a good setup so in this instance cost does not enter the equation

Thanks for sharing your thoughts on this

 

[nclemmons]

Lots of people on FOG swear by the convenience of the long rail.

If you do a LOT of sheet goods, work in a shop, and have a place to store it, the long rail is probably justified. 
Downside is portability and cost.

If you don't care about portability, it comes down to cost.

You could buy a new SysRock radio and an additional saw blade with the $200 you save.  Or many other things with the savings.

Which is more enjoyable to you?!

 

[antss]

Unless you're framing houses, long diagonal cuts on sheet goods rarely present themselves.

3000mm would be great for you until you need to put it in your car.

1400 lr32 would be more versatile as it'd allow you to make holes in longer sides joined with your current one. Think bookcases or pantry cabinets.

 

[semenza]

Personally I'd go 3000 and just keep it for the shop. You can always take the two you already own for the road trip.

You might consider the 1900. Easier when cross cutting 48" sheet goods. Needed for that 5' x 5' plywood. Gives a nice in between length. Although then the LR32 rail would be your semi-permanent joined long rail.

Seth

 

[peter halle]

You already have two 1400 rails.  Keep the holy one and sell the other either on the classifieds or craigslist.

For portability take's Seth advice and get the 1900 rail.  I assume you already have two rail connectors.  If not, get them.  The combined length of 3300 exceeds the 3000. 

Try this out.  If the connector joint and your workflow works then you are great without the afore mentioned portability issues of the 3000.  If this isn't for you, or you want to augment then get the 3000 rail and forget about buying anymore rails for your lifetime unless you need to make a really long cut.

Peter

 

[RustE]

...
You might consider the 1900. Easier when cross cutting 48" sheet goods. Needed for that 5' x 5' plywood. Gives a nice in between length.
...

Interesting.  I just purchased the FS1400 from a local dealer.  Now I'm considering returning it for the FS1900 before the price goes up.

 

[cpw]

Another bit of food for thought, with the TS75, the 55" rail is barely enough.  Not sure if that would ever matter for you.

 

[Ross 71]

Are you happy that your joined rails stay straight enough? I found I wasted time checking and checking. If you add up the cost of another 1400 rail ($133) and a betterley straight line connector ($99) you're at $232.

For me it was worth spending the extra for a 2700 rail. I know it is straight. Simple as that. I'm with Seth. Keep the long rail for the shop, take the rail joiners on your travels

 

[antss]

[member=1674]Peter Halle[/member]  - pretty sure [member=12645]UncleJoe[/member] only has one "holy" rail , not two already.

If going with a 1900 he'd have to decide whether he'd value the added stability/convenience for cross cutting 5' sheets over the capacity to bore 32mm holes on longer panels.  Assuming he buys 5' wide sheets in the first place.  I'm guessing he doesn't as those are really geared towards shops - which generally have stationary panel processing setup already.  55"/1400 is plenty stable for crosscutting standard plywood sheets. 

For me, the accuracy of the longer LR32 outweighs the slim number of times one would need 5' cutting capacity.  Additionally, a six and a half foot long rail isn't all that portable either !  Which also seems important to Joe.

The 1400 lr32 is the most versatile rail given what Joe states are his parameters.

I've never needed a Betterley jig or anything else: see above. And we don't waste time checking after the initial setup/joining process. And I'll bet the value of material and the general three months it takes to get if needing replacement far surpasses the value of anything y'all are cutting.

Bottom line - connected rails are plenty accurate and can be setup quickly after transport. They also don't REQUIRE faffing about.  I understand some of you may feel the need to check and re-check and OCD  them, but it's strictly not necessary. 

 

[semenza]

    I wouldn't call the 1400 "plenty" to cross cut 48" I'd call it just enough. And if I happen to be cutting a 49" sheet well..... even less. I bought the 1900 because I find it much faster and easier to set on a 48" sheet.

    Also, I don't know about others but I get 5' x 5' sheets and 49" x 97"  from my regular supplier as needed however many sheets, as few as one. And I am not a large cabinet shop set up to take truck loads and process through a panel saw. I have even on occasion found MDF and the like at big boxes in 49" x 97".

    In any case Joe has some deciding to do on capability decisions. More LR32, in between rail length, transport, etc.

Seth

 

[antss]

Seth , what do you regularly use 5x5 sheets for ?

 

[Kev]

Funny thing the 1900 rail ... I think I've walked into my dealer's shop intending to buy one at least three times, but have always changed my mind last minute and got something else. I think the first time I came out with the 2424 LR32 instead and don't recall exactly what I went for other times.

I really think the 1400's are only just wide enough for a 1200 cut and I would like something a little longer. I'll probably relent and get a 1900 eventually.

 

[PreferrablyWood]

I'm needing to get an additional rail. I'll be getting the 2700mm rail, it will work for most everything I need to do, I can combine with my 1900 og 1080 rail for longer. I will likely also get the holy 1400 rail when the time comes that I need that functionality.

 

[Dick Mahany]

That 1900 rail would have been super useful when I was cutting 5'x5' prefinished BB for drawer sides recently.  I needed to cut MANY 400mm strips from a number of sheets and my two 1400mm rails joined were very cumbersome to use.  I may just have to get one.

 

[Michael Kellough]

"5'x5' prefinished BB"  That's Baltic Birch for those that don't know.

The 1900 rail is the one I use 80% of the time. I only go bigger when initially breaking down a full sheet of ply or straight edging planks. I only go smaller than the 1900 when it becomes unwieldy.

The 1400 length is traditional and should have been discontinued when the TS saws came out. It's no coincidence that 1900 rail became available at the same time (well, maybe only when the TS 75 arrived). The 1400 rail really isn't compatible with the TS gib system of track saw alignment. I think Festool should provide the 1900 with TS 55 saws.

Prior to the TS gibs the saw's shoe was stamped steel presenting a continuous channel that ran on the guide rail. The channel was wider than the raised rib it rode on and the fit was adjusted at the gibs but as long as the operator kept the continuous side of the channel pressed against the track rib the saw remained on the intended path. As little as 80mm engagement/overlap with the guide rail is sufficient.

With the TS saws both sets of gibs need to be engaged with the guide rail for the saw to be aligned. That means the about 250mm engagement/overlap with the guide rail is required before and after the wood in order to begin and end the cut without a plunge cut (the preferable way). 250 x 2 + 1400 = 1900.

With the TS 75 the need for a longer rail is even greater and the 1900 is barely long enough to cross-cut 4 foot ply. Festool should provide the 1900 with the TS 55 saws and a 2100 rail with the TS 75 imo.

 

[antss]

It's my understanding that FT doesn't "provide" a rail with the track saws. 

The dealers "package" an FS1400 in their marketing material, but it's really a saw at $xxx, and a rail at $xxx combined for the price. You could place any FS rail into the "package" that you like, or even buy the saw without a rail.  In effect , making the 1900mm standard if you liked.

Perhaps [member=5]Bob Marino[/member] , or [member=48572]Shane Holland[/member] could chime in with the actual info ?

 

[Shane Holland]

We can and have swapped the standard rail with another size for our customers. It's something we need to do by phone. Just give us a buzz on Monday at 1-877-TOOLNUT and speak to Doug or Brady and they can help out.

Dealers purchase a saw+rail from Festool as a kit.

Shane

Thanks for the tag, [member=727]antss[/member].

 

[RustE]

So, I can get a TS55REQ with a FS1900 guide rail for $660?

 

[Shane Holland]

So, I can get a TS55REQ with a FS1900 guide rail for $660?

No.  [eek] [tongue]

It would be 660 - 133 + 206 = 733

Deduct the price of the 1400 rail and add the price of the 1900.

 

[Mort]

I'm glad you do that, in the future sometime I'd like to get a TS75, but the 75" rail seems like kind of a weird size.