Guide Rail Square Guide and Kickback Stop

Shawnrader

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Jan 7, 2020
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Here's a guide rail square I made using some scrap baltic birch and a guide rail connector.  There are three things I wanted to accomplish with this jig:
1. Square up the guide rail against the workpiece, obviously.
2. Provide a kickback guard as the jig butts up against the back of the guide rail.
3. Position the saw such that it is starting the cut at maximum plunge depth.

As an added benefit, using the guide rail connector as an attachment stiffens up the end of the guide rail considerably to help is support the weight of the saw (I have a ts-75).


 

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I have some inaccuracy in it at the moment I am figuring out how to resolve - I can't figure out where it is coming from.  I am thinking the best way now will be to adapt William Ng's 5 cut method for squaring table saw sled.  That is, attach the alignment fence to the guide with two screws, perform 5 cut test to determine how far out of square, use a feeler guage at one end to correct the position of the guide rail, secure it, then drive in a new screw at the adjusted position fence.  Same method as for a table saw sled, but adapted to this application.
 
To make the adjustment you need a single pivot point attachment and a clamp. The present attachment via the slot in bottom of rail will be difficult to finesse.

You might try a small flathead screw countersunk below the green strip and a single clamp (bolt) in the bottom slot. Once it is truly square reattach the fence alongside the rail and return one or two of the lower bolts.
 
It's probably not clear in the pictures + video, but I over bored the holes to attach the guide rail by about a mm (5/16) so position of the guide rail can be adjusted slightly in the horizontal plane.  To attach it I slide the guide rail on, snug it up flush against the alignment fence, then tighten the bolts to attach the rail.  IOW, the holes to attach the rail are not use to align it, just to secure it to the jig.
 
That piece of wood you have butting into the end of the guide rail, you may want to consider moving it or make sure the guide rail doesn’t touch it.  The ends of the guide rail are not guaranteed to be square.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
That's a good point.  I have the piece at the back to prevent the saw from kicking back and positionit so it will plunge at max depth, but it's important not to align with the back of the rail.  That could be what is causing my issues.
 
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