Guide Stop micro adjust on OF 1400

[fshanno]

Is one revolution on the guide stop micro adjust wheel supposed to equal one millimeter?

 

[Notorious T.O.D.]

Yes, I believe it is...

Best,
Notorious T.O.D.

 

[Forrest Anderson]

Is one revolution on the guide stop micro adjust wheel supposed to equal one millimeter?

Is that the micro-adjustment knob on the edge guide, also known as the parallel side fence? If so, the manual athttp://www.festoolusa.com/supplyimages/OF1400_manual_usa.pdf says:

--------------
To set the final position of the router using the micro-adjust feature:
a. Loosen the micro-adjust clamping knob on the edge guide.
b. Turn the micro-adjustment dial to set the position of the router.
► Turning the dial toward increasing numbers moves the router away from the edge guide.
► Each number represents 0.1 mm, and a full revolution is equal to 1.0 mm.
c. Retighten the clamping knob.
--------------------

Forrest

 

[fshanno]

Weird.  I'm getting a fairly repeatable 0.9 mm.  I want to make a dado that exactly matches the piece.  I use a bit narrower than the piece.  Make a pass and measure the groove because the bit isn't perfect.  Then make the adjustment and then make the second pass.  If I calculate a ratio based on 0.9 mm it works if I don't the dado is too narrow.

I would be great if someone else would try this and let me know how it works for them.

Here are videos from Micro Fence that describe the process.  The Dado

I works with the Festool but mine seems to be off by a tenth.

 

[Daviddubya]

fshanno - I think you and Forrest are talking about two different OF1400 router accessories.  The Guide Stop (492601) attaches the OF1400 to the guide rails.  The Edge Guide (462636) is used in freehand routing.  I looked at these two accessories in my shop, and the diameter of the threaded rod is different, larger on the Edge Guide than on the Guide Stop.  So it would not be surprising if the Guide Stop had a slightly different movement for one turn of the knob, since the threads would not be the same.

 

[Forrest Anderson]

fshanno - I think you and Forrest are talking about two different OF1400 router accessories.  The Guide Stop (492601) attaches the OF1400 to the guide rails.  The Edge Guide (462636) is used in freehand routing.  I looked at these two accessories in my shop, and the diameter of the threaded rod is different, larger on the Edge Guide than on the Guide Stop.  So it would not be surprising if the Guide Stop had a slightly different movement for one turn of the knob, since the threads would not be the same.

Thanks for that David.

fshanno - could you clarify which attachment you are using to cut your dados? David's suggestion that you are using the Guide Rail Attachment/Guide Stop...

...seems more likely than the edge guide/parallel side fence:

However, even if you are using the Guide Rail Attachment, the micro-adjust is still 0.1mm per mark, and 1mm per revolution, as mentioned on page 19 of the same excellent manual I referred to previously:

-------
With the inner guide block clamping knob tight and the
outer guide block clamping knob loose, adjust the microadjust
thumbwheel to set the final position of the router:
► Each number on the wheel represents 0.1mm, and a full
turn of the wheel represents 1.0 mm.
► After the micro-adjustment is complete, tighten the
outer guide block clamping knob.
-------

You may want to compare your adjustment procedure to the manual.

If you can check the thread pitch of the threaded rod that is used for the micro-adjustment, then you will be able to determine how far one revolution of the wheel will advance the router. For the wheel to advance 1mm per revolution, the pitch needs to be 1mm, so there should be 10 threads per 10mm, or 20 threads per 20mm etc.

Might you be experiencing backlash in the adjustment mechanism?

I'm afraid that I don't have the OF1400 (yet!), so sadly I can't give you real-world advice from using this router and its attachments.

Forrest

 

[Notorious T.O.D.]

fshanno - I think you and Forrest are talking about two different OF1400 router accessories.  The Guide Stop (492601) attaches the OF1400 to the guide rails.  The Edge Guide (462636) is used in freehand routing.  I looked at these two accessories in my shop, and the diameter of the threaded rod is different, larger on the Edge Guide than on the Guide Stop.  So it would not be surprising if the Guide Stop had a slightly different movement for one turn of the knob, since the threads would not be the same.

If the pitch of the threads is the same then it would still result in the same .1mm per index mark.  I am assuming that even if the diameter is different on these metric fasteners the pitch on each is 1.0 and therefore full revolution would be 1.0mm on either.

If you are starting with the dial on 0 then you need to turn it back to 0 to complete one full turn and get the 1.0mm adjustment...if you turn it only to index mark 9 you have only gone 9 / 10ths of a turn and would get .9mm. There could be some backlash in the mechanism but it should be minimal...one would hope at least.

Best,
Notorious T.O.D.

 

[Daviddubya]

...However, even if you are using the Guide Rail Attachment, the micro-adjust is still 0.1mm per mark, and 1mm per revolution, as mentioned on page 19 of the same excellent manual I referred to previously:...

Apparently I should have said "the threads might not be the same".    Since Rick's manual says 1mm per revolution, I would expect that to be correct.

 

[fshanno]

I'm using the guide stop.  I'm going all the way around from 0 back to 0.  The wacky part is that if I divide what I need by 0.9 and dial in that value I get good results. 

Is anybody else actually using the numbers on the dial?  The Micro Fence method works with any bit and any thickness material so it seems like a good method.  And it should work with the Festool guide stop.  Has anybody else tried it?

 

[greg mann]

You are experiencing backlash, or clearance ion the thread between the nut and screw. To get the full millimeter you need to approach you final settings from the same direction. That is, if you made your initial setting by rotating the adjuster clockwise to your desired mark then to get a full mm adjustment you need to move a full turn plus a little more so that you can appoach you setting with a clockwise motion again. This is called allowing for backlash. It sounds like you have .1mm backlash. Don't feel bad that it exists. Most manual machine tools have it, including the famous Bridgeport toolroom milling machines. It is a normal practice when buying a used one to see how much backlash exists in the leadscrews by rotating the handles to feel how much freeplay has developed. A new machine normally has about .005" to .010" while well used machines may have .050" or more. That is a quarter turn of the screw. It doesn't mean the machine cannot be reasonably accurate as long as you approach your settings by making sure you rotate always clockwise or always CCW. HTH 

BTW, the MicroFence has virtually undetectable backlash as its screw is thread ground like a micrometer. That is one of its selling points and also why it costs more. Good stuff.

 

[Les]

You are experiencing backlash, or clearance ion the thread between the nut and screw. To get the full millimeter you need to approach you final settings from the same direction. That is, if you made your initial setting by rotating the adjuster clockwise to your desired mark then to get a full mm adjustment you need to move a full turn plus a little more so that you can appoach you setting with a clockwise motion again. This is called allowing for backlash. It sounds like you have .1mm backlash. Don't feel bad that it exists. Most manual machine tools have it, including the famous Bridgeport toolroom milling machines. It is a normal practice when buying a used one to see how much backlash exists in the leadscrews by rotating the handles to feel how much freeplay has developed. A new machine normally has about .005" to .010" while well used machines may have .050" or more. That is a quarter turn of the screw. It doesn't mean the machine cannot be reasonably accurate as long as you approach your settings by making sure you rotate always clockwise or always CCW. HTH 

BTW, the MicroFence has virtually undetectable backlash as its screw is thread ground like a micrometer. That is one of its selling points and also why it costs more. Good stuff.

Bingo. ;D

 

[Dave Ronyak]

I have found there is some slop (binding then free play) possible in the edge guide for the OF 1400, not unlike that which exists in most competitors edge guides.  I, too, have found that even after turning the dial to remove any free play, making a cut, then adjusting the guide by moving it in the same direction used to remove the free play, there is still inaccuracy in the guide relative to the amount the dial is turned.  I believe this is due to slight twisting (racking) of the edge guide components on the steel rods.  This issue is not limited to Festool's edge guide; I experienced the same problem on my old Craftsman router and old Stanley commercial duty router system.  The only absolute sure way to get the cut you want is to test the setup after each adjustment.  The calibrations on the adjustment knob of the edge guide help, but are not reliable.  I have not done much routing using the guide rail follower so I make no comment on its accuracy and repeatability.

Modified 12/29/08
The slop referred to in my above message is not an instability problem.  Once the guide is set and the adjustment knobs secured, whatever the setting is is very stable.  Likewise when using the guide stop on the guide rail - there is no slop once the adjustment knobs securing the router and the guide stop to the steel rods are tightened.

Dave R.

 

[Notorious T.O.D.]

I am very interested in using the routers and the track system as an alternative to cutting dados on large pieces on the table saw.  I am wondering if the router guide for the hole drilling setup is perhaps a better track based system than the guide for the track and the rods which may offer a larger wider range but some what less stability...  Any thoughts on one vs the other?  The price is only about $30 Festool bucks between the two and the one can be used with the hole system too.

Best,
Todd

 

[Dave Ronyak]

Todd,

I wouldn't recommend the use of the Guide Plate for the Hole Drilling set for making dados because you would have to hold the pin up out of it automatic locking position, and the Guide Stop is quite stable when mounted on the rail and the knobs that secure the Guide Stop to the steel rods and to the router are tightened.

Dave R.

 

[Notorious T.O.D.]

Dave,

Thanks for the feedback on the two methods.  Currently I only have the track with the holes and the guide that works with the rods. Plan to get a MFT/3 in
December and this will put me much more into the "System" mode with my Festool stuff. You are right about the pin engaging in the holes with the hole track. I guess I was thinking of using it with a track without holes such as the one that comes with the MFT/3.  It might drag a little or one might have to put a wooden spacer under the one end of the mechanism to hold the pin up out of the way.  Someday when I get the hole drilling set I can play around with it I guess.  I have never seen the plate up close and personal as my local Woodcraft does not carry one...

Best,
Todd