Half Laps

[darbo]

I need to cut some half-lap joints for the framework of a workbench that I am building. In the past I've relied on a router for this cut, but a Kapex can cut half-laps and dados as well. I haven't tried the Kapex for this yet, but hopefully some of you have and can share your experiences. So, which tool (in my shop) would you prefer to make this cut? Should I try it on the Kapex? Or, would you prefer to make the cut using a hand-held (upright) router (OF 1400), or on a router table?

A tablesaw along with a good miter gauge or crosscut sled is probably the easiest way to do this, but thus far I have been trying to live without a tablesaw in my space-challenged workshop.

 

[PaulMarcel]

Think it depends on the number of half-laps you are making.  When I needed to make 2 joints before, I just used the miter saw and chewed away the material in successive passes.  That was still faster than pulling out the router and in this case, the not so perfectly flat cut from the blade wasn't an issue.

More than 2, I'd grab the handheld router; it makes a nice flat surface and is ultimately faster once you get past a couple joints.  I would, however, use the miter saw or table saw to cut the edge of the half-lap; makes it easier for the handheld router since you don't have to make a dead straight edge as the saw did it for you.

 

[Chris Hughes]

I had to do a couple of half lap joints the other day for an abacus from my daughter's school.  It as old and the feet they put on it 50 years ago were screwed on so it was ready to fall over.  The teacher asked if there was any thing that could be done to make it right again.  My solution was to make semi circle feet and to half lap them together.

I took the frame apart and used my mft's rail as a cross sled to hold the router for the cut.  I made the first pass with my saw to achieve the cleanest shoulder and then the router for the bulk of the work.  I found that unless you can use the support foot you need to support the rail to maintain a parallel cut.  I used the leg I was not cutting at the time to support the lead edge of the rail.  It worked great and there virtually no set up beyond chucking up a bit and setting depth. 

My advise is to use the mft and your smallest router.