Hammer N4400 on the way!

So spend 2 to 3 times more on 'premium' type machine and then cheap out on the tools used to set it up correctly?  OK, whatever floats your boat....
 
Following on Derek’s blade advice, consider the rule of thumb for matching hacksaw blades to the work. That is, tooth pitch should be 1/3 of the thickness of the stock being cut so that there are always at least 2 teeth in the kerf so the blade doesn’t snag. That 10tpi blade would be good for cutting stuff 3/8ths of an inch thick.

Also consider that a tooth is going to be dragging swarf into it’s gullet the full length of the kerf so for re-sawing you want big gullets. As said above, for smooth cut surfaces you also want less set, but (I’m guessing) that also requires the wood to be quite dry.
 
[member=44099]Cheese[/member] wow thanks so much for all the information! I will try it out. I think the blade set really was what was killing me!

Really appreciate you taking the time write that up. That cedar looks BEAUTIFUL and exactly what I want cut-quality-wise!! I'll have to keep trying. I'm still totally new at it.

[member=71752]PeppaPig[/member] just picked one of those up this week from Grizzly! Already noticed the scale on the N4400 wasn't really accurate, as I hypothesized! Great item to have around but yes pricey.

[member=297]Michael Kellough[/member] thanks! Really appreciate the advice!

By the way. Is anyone interested in a brand-new 1" Woodmaster CT? I think it's a little too big for my machine as you guys have noted here, so, moving down to 3/4" blades... they aren't cheap. I wouldn't give it away for free but if anyone in Bay Area, CA wants it, let me know and we can chat.

Matt
 
What the max size blade for the N4400 is, is a bit obscure. Some documentation says 20 mm (slightly over 3/4), but I have also seen 25 mm (an inch). Strange thing is that the tensioning guide inside the machine goes to 35 mm ( 1 3/8) — that may be some stupid cost saving issue (using the same decal for various models), but does not clarify things.

Anyway, an inch blade should work. I have one on my N4400 and it’s the one I mainly use. (Hammer branded, but produced by ? ? ? )
 
PeppaPig said:
So spend 2 to 3 times more on 'premium' type machine and then cheap out on the tools used to set it up correctly?  OK, whatever floats your boat....

Boy you have no idea what your talking about, I will just leave it like that. There is nothing magically about about setting tension and I've done more precision setups then you could ever imagine. Like everything waste your money the way you wish. By the way a Hammer N4400 isn't a premium machine its a mid range to most and entry level for the Felder line.
 
I doubt that scales on all bandsaws are unlikely to be accurate. I accept the one on my N4400 is just a guideline.

I also have never used an aftermarket scale. I simply tension using the 1" mark as a rough estimate, and then go a little more until there is minimal blade deflection. I am on my second 1" Lenox Woodmaster CT. This one tensions more easily, as if the blade has more spring in it. The previous one struggled to get to the 1" mark. It is possible - a more likely explanation - that the new blade is slightly longer than the old one? In any event, the new one cuts more smoothly.

By the way, I re-sharpened the previous 1" CT about 5 times before it eventually gave up the ghost (diamond disk on a Dremel).

The Hammer N4400 is a good bandsaw, but I agree that it is an entry level for the Felder make. It has good power, but there are areas for improvement, which one pays for. I am happy with my three Hammer machines, having had good service from them and the agent, who is nearby. That was a big reason for going with Hammer.

With regard size of blade, my N4400 is about 9 or 10 years old now. Earlier models went to 3/4" (as the recommendation). I believe mine can go to 1 1/4".

Regards from Perth

Derek
 
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