GregorHochschild
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Hardware suggestions for large vertical pullout (around 8' x 1', see pics)
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woodbutcherbower
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I've built a few dozen of these using either Hafele or Kesseboehmer hardware. It's always difficult to advise people when you have no idea of their geographical location, Gregor - it would help us to help you if you updated it. The pics below are ones I've done with kitchen basket pullouts, but both manufacturers also produce various versions with drawers, recycling bins, coathangers and other stuff. Or - you can just buy the frame and the top/bottom runners.
Most hardware comes in two versions - either like the top pic (frontals are attached to the hardware) or the second pic (frontals are separate, attached to the cabinet). If you opt for the second version, I'd strongly recommend that you fit the cabinet doors using 170-degree hinges instead of regular 110-degree ones. The wider opening makes real-world daily use so much easier.
Most of these are available in either 300mm or 400mm widths, and the hardware height maxes out at 2200mm (around 87 inches or 7'3"). This is because many/most ceilings in Europe are around 2400mm - but by the time you've added the cabinet and a plinth for it to stand on, you're pretty much at the 8-foot level.
https://www.hafele.co.uk/en/product...kets-centre-mounting-soft-closing/P-00856228/
https://www.kesseboehmer-cleverstorage.de/en/product-typology/tall-cabinets/dispensa/
Both companies have global distribution - click the appropriate website links for the country or region you're in.
Kevin
TOTALLY RANDOM AND UNCONNECTED EDIT = Tip of the day !! (bottom pic) - When installing new baseboards on top of a finished floor, put 2mm packers under them before you fix them to the wall. You can then slide newspaper under them when you paint, to act as a quick, cheap mask. No more paint streaks and spills on your new floor ......
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Most hardware comes in two versions - either like the top pic (frontals are attached to the hardware) or the second pic (frontals are separate, attached to the cabinet). If you opt for the second version, I'd strongly recommend that you fit the cabinet doors using 170-degree hinges instead of regular 110-degree ones. The wider opening makes real-world daily use so much easier.
Most of these are available in either 300mm or 400mm widths, and the hardware height maxes out at 2200mm (around 87 inches or 7'3"). This is because many/most ceilings in Europe are around 2400mm - but by the time you've added the cabinet and a plinth for it to stand on, you're pretty much at the 8-foot level.
https://www.hafele.co.uk/en/product...kets-centre-mounting-soft-closing/P-00856228/
https://www.kesseboehmer-cleverstorage.de/en/product-typology/tall-cabinets/dispensa/
Both companies have global distribution - click the appropriate website links for the country or region you're in.
Kevin
TOTALLY RANDOM AND UNCONNECTED EDIT = Tip of the day !! (bottom pic) - When installing new baseboards on top of a finished floor, put 2mm packers under them before you fix them to the wall. You can then slide newspaper under them when you paint, to act as a quick, cheap mask. No more paint streaks and spills on your new floor ......
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GregorHochschild
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Thanks [member=75780]woodbutcherbower[/member]! I am based in the U.S. (east coast). Dispensa is available for about $730 for the frame alone. Any idea about the min. interior cabinet width? The smallest shelf is 203mm wide (8''). However, the frame alone seems to be more narrow (see attached pic). Maybe 120mm for the front mounting brackets. What do you think is the min. interior cabinet width with custom shelving?
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woodbutcherbower
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You're very welcome [member=73419]GregorHochschild[/member]. All commercial kitchen cabinets in Europe are supplied in increments of 100mm - with 300mm being pretty much the standard size for a pullout unit such as this. But - 300mm is the external size of the cabinet, so you need to deduct 2 x your material thickness for the internal dimension. It's usually 2 x 18mm, giving you an internal width of 264mm. And yeah - this stuff is pricey ....... but being German, it's superbly engineered and will last a lifetime. The liquid-damped soft-close mechanism is a thing of sublime beauty.
95% of these things eventually get fitted with baskets - hence all the little pre-installed hooks on the frame. So you'll need to get creative if you have shelves or something else in mind. You can do it !!
Hope that helps.
Kevin
95% of these things eventually get fitted with baskets - hence all the little pre-installed hooks on the frame. So you'll need to get creative if you have shelves or something else in mind. You can do it !!
Hope that helps.
Kevin
GregorHochschild
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Thanks! Very helpful. I am wondering how narrow I can make the cabinet in a custom application. I have 180mm of space for the external width of the cabinet. That leaves about 144mm of internal width. Can I make the hardware work in this context?
woodbutcherbower
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You should be just fine. The beauty of this hardware is that the runners and frame sit centrally in the cabinet, attached to the floor and the ceiling along the centreline - think of the frame verticals as a kind of 'spine' which you can fix other stuff to. So you can pretty much build a cabinet and shelves to any width you want - as long as they're wider than the bottom runner, obviously - this one is bigger and chunkier because it takes all of the weight. I'm sure the manufacturer will be able to tell you how wide the bottom runner is. From memory, I think the narrowest cabinet I ever fitted the system into was 150mm external. It was an oddball left-over floor-to-ceiling space in a kitchen which the customer wanted to make the best use of. I did a quick project archive search but I can't find a picture. If I do - I'll post it.
Hope you get fixed up.
Kevin
Hope you get fixed up.
Kevin
National Hardware (Stanley) manufactures barn door hardware (for real barns). These utility pieces can handle huge amounts of weight. An 8’ track (galvanized steel) costs about $90.00 and can be cut to size.
The “wheels” (called “trolleys”) are about $25.00 each (you would need two).
Keeping with the economy frame of mind, four roller blade wheels will cost about $15.00 and come with excellent bearings.
Lowes used to carry the barn door parts in stock. Tractor Supply, Graingers and others carry them too.
Dick’s Sporting goods carries the wheels.
All are available from Amazon.com.
You will have to design so that the weight can be carried from above, rather than from the sides or below. But if you are using a single piece of plywood for each of the sides, that should be no problem.
The “wheels” (called “trolleys”) are about $25.00 each (you would need two).
Keeping with the economy frame of mind, four roller blade wheels will cost about $15.00 and come with excellent bearings.
Lowes used to carry the barn door parts in stock. Tractor Supply, Graingers and others carry them too.
Dick’s Sporting goods carries the wheels.
All are available from Amazon.com.
You will have to design so that the weight can be carried from above, rather than from the sides or below. But if you are using a single piece of plywood for each of the sides, that should be no problem.
woodbutcherbower
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Isn't the FOG just great?
One question - and two equally valid and equally helpful answers. One focused on precision, German, liquid-damped CNC micro-engineering, and the other one focused on John Deere tractor-level Amish barn-raising metalwork manufactured with sweat, bellows, a huge charcoal fire, billets of pig iron, brute force and a massive sledgehammer. Such levels of equally-sound diversity is exactly what keeps this forum so much fun to be a part of.
[member=74278]Packard[/member] thanks for making my day and for keeping it real [big grin]
One question - and two equally valid and equally helpful answers. One focused on precision, German, liquid-damped CNC micro-engineering, and the other one focused on John Deere tractor-level Amish barn-raising metalwork manufactured with sweat, bellows, a huge charcoal fire, billets of pig iron, brute force and a massive sledgehammer. Such levels of equally-sound diversity is exactly what keeps this forum so much fun to be a part of.
[member=74278]Packard[/member] thanks for making my day and for keeping it real [big grin]
woodbutcherbower said:
I failed to mention that the roller blade wheels should be mounted horizontally on the bottom of the unit to keep the “drawer” from moving from side to side.
I’m glad my suggestion amused. I have not tried it. I suspect it will work. I have seen those same trolleys used to suspend photographic lighting units.
At work we used it for an 8’ x 8’ sliding fence gate. I don’t know what that weighed, but I suspect it was at least as heavy as a fully loaded kitchen pullout.
The first set of trolleys were installed years before I came to work there. The second set was going strong after 20 years exposed to the weather 24/7. (I’m retired now, so I don’t know the current condition, but I suspect it is still fine.)
It is utility hardware, but it ranks high on the utility scale.
woodbutcherbower
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[member=74278]Packard[/member] - just the offbeat Limey sense of humour as I hope you'll have figured - but posted with complete respect and good grace. Yours was a great suggestion - I've built and installed a whole bunch of vast industrial doors using exactly the kind of hardware you describe. And you're 100% right - this stuff is built like a Sherman tank and is durable/reliable beyond compare. I do hope my post didn't upset you or offend you in any way. If it did - please accept my apologies.
Best wishes, Kevin.
Best wishes, Kevin.
As someone who has used/installed both the Kessebohmer units and the National/Stanley barn door hardware, I will give my two cents and say that the K-Bomb stuff is the way to go for a cabinet. The also offer shorter versions of that style of unit, so you can build a tall cab with drawers in the lower section and a pullout in the top.
The National hardware seems cheap, but by the time you buy all of the track, hangers, clamps, stops, and anything else needed, you will be into it for a couple hundred dollars. And you'll still have to build all of the shelving. I recently used it for a shed door, and I believe the specs said that two of the lighter hangers were rated for about 1300 pounds.
The National hardware seems cheap, but by the time you buy all of the track, hangers, clamps, stops, and anything else needed, you will be into it for a couple hundred dollars. And you'll still have to build all of the shelving. I recently used it for a shed door, and I believe the specs said that two of the lighter hangers were rated for about 1300 pounds.
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Also, Rev-A-Shelf offers similar pullouts and their site has a "wizard" to show options based on your dimensions.https://rev-a-shelf.com/2538
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