Has anyone used this before for cabinets?

[jmbfestool]

On going project properly never get time to finish it!  Any way unused legs as I hate shimes as I value my time  [tongue].

kitchen by me

I bought cheap ones from howdens nothing special and not the best but it was easy for me to get hold of them and I have an account with howdens.      The better plastic legs are these ones which have two positions the second position allows you to over hang the legs from your unit/cabinet so for example normally your would have 4legs per unit/cabinet.  You would only 4for the first cabinet and the rest would have two.  

So two units/cabinets would have 6legs. Saving you 2legs so over a few units you save legs saving money but also time!    Because once you levelled up the first unit the second one sits on the other unit/cabinets legs so it's flush and you just adjust the other two legs.   Plastic legs all the way!

I think the EZ-level looks okay and would be the quickest way to level units BUT the initial setting them up takes time so defeats the object and they require the panels to run down to the floor which to me seems just a waist of material and time so I wouldn't use the EZ-level I'm sticking with the plastic legs. As far as I know nothing is quicker for leveling units than plastic legs shimes don't come close don't waist your time with shimes dude.    Once you go plastic you ain't going back!

I use plastic packers all the time now like Justin I buy 5000.of each sort 1mm,2mm,3mm,4mm,5mm plastic packers.

I see in the video the guy sticks a shime under e first unit and then he stick another unit next to on the shime now a shime is a wedge shape correct?  Now would the unit next to it actually be slightly higher seen as it's sitting on a higher part of the shime so not as accurate as you would like it to be then.

Jmb

 

[Alan m]

i know it is a lot dearer to use than shims but the labour saving will add and ballence out.

i was saying that legs or levelersare more expencive than the shims but slower.

JMB.
i think it is time to get the camera out and show them janks the difference . shim 3-4 cabinets both ways.

 

[jmbfestool]

i know it is a lot dearer to use than shims but the labour saving will add and ballence out.

i was saying that legs or levelersare more expencive than the shims but slower.

JMB.
i think it is time to get the camera out and show them janks the difference . shim 3-4 cabinets both ways.

You might be saying it jokingly but I did actually think about making a video you know. LoL

Jmb

 

[mastercabman]

I see in the video the guy sticks a shime under e first unit and then he stick another unit next to on the shime now a shime is a wedge shape correct?  Now would the unit next to it actually be slightly higher seen as it's sitting on a higher part of the shime so not as accurate as you would like it to be then.

Jmb

Right,but that's because he does not know how to use shims! [smile]

 

[Alan m]

could you enlighten us on you way to use shims as you say it is very fast and accurate.
i presume you are using the shims as folding wedges

 

[GPowers]

Looks like an expensive but clever solution.

One option is to build the toe kick/platform as a separate unit for multiple base units. Then  place the base cabinet on top of the platform. The platform is easy to level, and the top is open. The you can use shims or leveling legs.

 

[jmbfestool]

Looks like an expensive but clever solution.

One option is to build the toe kick/platform as a separate unit for multiple base units. Then  place the base cabinet on top of the platform. The platform is easy to level, and the top is open. The you can use shims or leveling legs.

Kinda like this??
kitchen by me

  I did use to do it out of 2x2 made up frames slightly smaller in height to allow me to pack it up level using packers or shimes but like I keep saying I don't like that method so I changed and now make MDF base and use plastic legs.   If you make it to the depth you want and the front legs are flush then you kick board has something to clip to and goes against the straight edge of the MDF.  

In the topic kitchen by me I am using the bottom MDF as a decore this time so that's why it's deeper and the legs are set back so the kick board goes underneath set in clipping to the legs.    It was very easy for me to get it dead flat and level and I can now simply slide the units onto the base and position it exactually where I want and no need for a level any more.

Jmb

 

[mastercabman]

could you enlighten us on you way to use shims as you say it is very fast and accurate.
i presume you are using the shims as folding wedges

I was browsing around some older post and just noticed this reply.
For your answer,it's quite simple.Take 2 shims and stack them together,but facing the other way.What i mean is,the thin part of the top shim is on top of the thick part of the bottom shim and vice versa.Now you have a shim that has the same thickness thru out and all you do is push them together and it will become thicker.Does that make sense?

 

[Kevin Stricker]

Just a comment here...I believe the main difference in construction/installation between Europe and the US has more to do with real-estate law than "advances in cabinet construction".  Those on the other side of the pond can correct me if I am wrong but I believe that cabinetry in Europe is considered personal property and people often move their cabinets with them.  The main reason conformat construction, french cleat, and adjustable leg cabinets came about is to facilitate the quick and easy assembly/disassembly of cabinets.

Here in the US cabinets are considered real property, and are included in the sale of real estate.  As a result most cabinet jobs are considered permanent  and the construction reflects this.  Many custom cabinet shops utilize European( sys32) systems and make 30.5" tall base cabinets.  They will build a separate toe kick out of 3/4" stock and level/attach it to the wall and floor then set the cabinets on this. 

To say that plastic foot levelers are better than shims is largely a subjective opinion based on personal experience.  Although it may be faster to level cabinets with levelers, once you factor in the time to install them shims will win 9 times out of 10.

 

[Deansocial]

depends what cabinets you mean as normally stuff done with legs is permanent and is sold with the house. As for shims vs legs, legs cost less as less panel is used and we are not blessed with low cost sheet goods over here

 

[Alan m]

could you enlighten us on you way to use shims as you say it is very fast and accurate.
i presume you are using the shims as folding wedges

I was browsing around some older post and just noticed this reply.
For your answer,it's quite simple.Take 2 shims and stack them together,but facing the other way.What i mean is,the thin part of the top shim is on top of the thick part of the bottom shim and vice versa.Now you have a shim that has the same thickness thru out and all you do is push them together and it will become thicker.Does that make sense?

i understand how you are useing the folding wedges but was a bit confused as to how you could do it faster or better than the adjustable legs. . i find shims slow and tedious and the end of the chipboard is too close to the ground (touching in some cases) for protecting it against water. adjustable legs win every time.

also built in cabinets usually stay when the house is sold.

 

[Deansocial]

+1 on what alan said. But i understand the over the pond the cabs are ply so water not as bad?

 

[woodguy7]

Can't say I have ever heard of someone taking kitchen cabinets with them when they move ?  I have done shims & adjustable legs & adjustable legs win every time for me.

 

[Ken Nagrod]

I don't do adjustable legs on cabinetry, yet, but I do think there's an advantage in leveling speed and future adjustments for possible house settling.  I wouldn't put a lot of emphasis on protection from water unless there was some major flood and then insurance would probably take care of the replacement.  I guess each other's way just looks a bit odd because we don't typically see it or deal with it.

 

[mastercabman]

could you enlighten us on you way to use shims as you say it is very fast and accurate.
i presume you are using the shims as folding wedges

I was browsing around some older post and just noticed this reply.
For your answer,it's quite simple.Take 2 shims and stack them together,but facing the other way.What i mean is,the thin part of the top shim is on top of the thick part of the bottom shim and vice versa.Now you have a shim that has the same thickness thru out and all you do is push them together and it will become thicker.Does that make sense?

i understand how you are useing the folding wedges but was a bit confused as to how you could do it faster or better than the adjustable legs. . i find shims slow and tedious and the end of the chipboard is too close to the ground (touching in some cases) for protecting it against water. adjustable legs win every time.

also built in cabinets usually stay when the house is sold.

Allen,i agree that those adjustable legs that you guys use over there are easier but i think you are missing my point.Most cabinets that are built here DOES NOT HAVE  those adjustable legs.They are some small cabinet shops that uses them,but most here have the panel to the floor.
What i am refering to,are those ez level legs that the OP was talking about.You have to buy 1 set for $15.00 then you have to spend the time to install them,  and THEN YOU STILL HAVE TO LEVEL THE CABINET!!!      A lot more time and money!!!
Does that make sense to you?
Now if i was dealling with the system that you use,i would agree that it is simpler and in most cases faster(I have work with those leg leveler before)  Many times.And yes it is really nice if you ever have a leak or a small flood at least you can salvage the cabinets and just replace the toe kick.

 

[mastercabman]

+1 on what alan said. But i understand the over the pond the cabs are ply so water not as bad?

Most are particle board unless you spend the money to upgrade.Some manufactuer only uses plywood,but again you are spending more money.

 

[Deansocial]

I tried contacting Brooks, the owner.  He can't even handle a phone.  My opinion, stick with the tried and true, let someone else be the guinea pig.

is that your opinion when the plungle saw came out or the domino?

 

[Wooden Lungs]

http://www.screwmaster.co.uk/plinth-feet---set-of-4-cabinet-legs-150mm-plastic-adjustable-for-kitchen-base-units-35-p.asp

Shims......laugh out loud. Why dont you go to work on a horse too..... use adjustable legs and save yourself some heartache fellas. Everyone in europe does. Makes fitting kitchens enjoyable.

 

[mastercabman]

http://www.screwmaster.co.uk/plinth-feet---set-of-4-cabinet-legs-150mm-plastic-adjustable-for-kitchen-base-units-35-p.asp

Shims......laugh out loud. Why dont you go to work on a horse too..... use adjustable legs and save yourself some heartache fellas. Everyone in europe does. Makes fitting kitchens enjoyable.

Well if you feel like coming over here and start building cabinets the way they are built over in Europe,BE MY GUEST!
The cabinet industries here built them different than what your are used to.
Laugh all you want but I can plumb and level a cabinet with shims by the time you install those legs on the cabinet.Don't get me wrong,i would love to see more of that system over here but it would need to redesign the way they build cabinets.And i don't think it's going to happen soon.
BTW I can buy a bundle of shims for about$3.50-$4.00    It will do about 2-3 houses

 

[harry_]

been doing a lot of kitchen installs as of late. As has been stated several times in this thread NA cabinets are not made the way euro cabs are made. Our cabs come with sides that run all the way to the floor and a toe-kick 'nailer' across the front. The only time I have seen boxes without sides running all the way to the floor are for very tall pantry units that would not be able to be tipped up without hitting the ceiling. Those come with a separate base that the cabinet is lifted on to once it is stood up.

Adjustable feet/legs are possible but a great deal of modification (time-wise) would be necessary to use them. This is regardless of whether they are the of the type the OP has shown or the regular 'euro' legs.

This business of base cabinets hanging off the wall because of "shim compression" is a circular argument. For if the base cab was truly hanging on/from the wall, how could it compress the shim, and if the shim is not compressing, how can it hang on/from the wall? 99% of the time one part of the cabinet is on the floor therefor never is all a cabs weight on just the shims.

Moving on with more shim compression theory:
What EXACTLY are you putting on top of these cabinets, a tractor-trailer? Seriously, any solid surface (granite, concrete, quartz, synthetic, WHATEVER) does not get truly heavy UNTIL it gets BIG. As it gets bigger, it spans more & more cabinet boxes thus eliminating a gross point load. In all seriousness, I have had greater concerns about floors sinking than shims compressing. plus there is the nagging little detail of what the solid surface guys use to level their countertops..... cedar shims, go figure!

As far as shims taking a lonnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnng time to use, that would be strictly dependent on where the the starting gate is. If the starting gate on legs/EZ-levels are from the point in time after they have been installed, then yes of course they would be faster and I would probably want them. But if the start point is from the time that one cracks the seal on the shipping box (and they need to be installed) then I will beat you with shims ALL DAY LONG.

Redoing a run of boxes because you found a gross high/low spot mid-run? Well I can't say that it has happened to me yet. I have no less than 1/2 a dozen different tools on the truck that can fix that problem.

Generally I do not use the 'folded shim" method as I install my shims with my foot so that I can get a better view on the level and gives me the opportunity to lean on the box to make sure the shimming is true (sometimes they are furry, or an air bubble in the old linoleum, etc) using my body weight to simulate a counter-top.  My shims are generally 2" wide and are installed with ~1/2 of it's side sticking out waiting for the next cabinet. And before you get on me about how I can't possibly weigh as much as a counter-top (to which you would be correct) , at 175# my weight IS sufficient enough to simulate any amount of counter-top that would be supported by any given base cabinet.

We also need to be realistic about 'base cabinet mounting screws'. For the most part (not always, for there is almost always an exception to any rule) their job is done once the counter-top is installed and the adhesive sets up. After that, gravity is doing 99% of the work especially is solid surfaces are involved