Has the new MFT3 table solved the squareness problem of the 1080 table?

[nadsab]

I was wondering if anyone here owns both the MFT 1080 and has also purchased the new MFT3 table?  In Dec '06 I invested two grand into the MFT 1080, the 55 saw and an orbital sander, the table makes a great clamping table and I love the saw and sander itself, but?

I recently saw the new MFT3 a few months ago at my local dealer.  It looks like they improved upon the MFT, BUT, can anyone truly say that the new table has improved the making square cuts problems of the MFT 1080, and that the MFT3 is either equal to or better than a 3 hp cabinet saw in the accuracy of making square cuts?

I gave up on using the MFT fence and trying to get it and keep it square to the rail, so I went out and bought a Pinnacle precision cabinet makers t square and now I scribe all my cut lines manually and just line up my rail on the scribed line, and they come out OK.  But when I use that fence and rail, I have never been satisfied with the squareness and repeatability of my cuts on the MFT rail and fence set up, no matter how much time I put into squaring up the rail to the fence.

I ask this because I am seriously thinking about buying a table saw instead of the new MFT, I can get a 3 HP cabinet saw cast iron top for under 1,000 USD and since I already have two MFT?s I can use as a panel saw and clamping table, I could use the table saw for my more accurate cuts.  I have never owned a table saw in my life. 

Unless someone can convince me without a doubt, that the new MFT3 table can make repeatable, square cuts, without modifications, fiddling, and long set up times?

 

[bruegf]

While I agree that getting the MFT fence and rail set square is very tedious and can be time consuming, once set correctly I've not had it go out of square and it remains accurate.    I do try to avoid moving the fence or rail though, because it is a bit of pain to get it reset.

Fred

 

[nadsab]

Do you own the MFT3?

 

[kmhphoto]

Do you own the MFT3?

I own both and never had a problem getting square cuts on the 1080 once set-up. However the MFT/3 is MUCH easier to set-up and it is a much improved product that's not evident from reading the specs. Once you try it I think you'd agree.

 

[EcoFurniture]

I don't know why people always say that squaring off the MFT 3 is such a pain... It's take me a full 30 sec. to do so--tighten the fence, hold a big t-square to it and clamp the guide rail down against it--DONE!

You must do something wrong if it takes longer.

 

[nadsab]

EcoFurniture,

To clarify, I don't own an MFT3.  I own the 1080.

I am thinking about buying the MFT3 hence the reason for the original question.

 

[nickao]

If you have room and already have a 1080 buy the table saw! Most that give up a table saw for the Mft's have a space issue. I have both, two 3 top mft's, a single mft 1080 and a table saw.

I can say the table saw is a different animal and both an mft and a table saw will serve you better than one mft 1080 and one mft/3.

When I look at my massive table saw even next to my 3 top mft I still do not know how they can make the table saw so cheap(or is it the mft are outrageously priced?). It is so much more substantial then the mft/s and flimsy fences, mft/3 or 1080.

I use the Mft's all day, but I could never go without the table saw and I think once you have both you will see why.
A table saw and the Mft's are both great tools that compliment each other. I am not on the "either/or" bandwagon at all.

Nickao

 

[nadsab]

OK thanks nickao for that comment I think you are the first one who has told me that it's good to have both and that they compliment each other, kind of gives me permission to buy a table saw .

What I'm really trying to find out though, is if there is truly an improvement in the new MFT3 table over the old mft1080 table, in regard to solving the problem of obtaining repeatable, quick squareness of parts cut on the new MFT3, in situations where the guide rail and or fence are often dis assembled and then re assembled.

I often dis assemble the rail guide and fence, this is a given and this will never change.  I want to know if I can dis assemble, and then re assemble the guide rail and fence on the new MFT3, and quickly obtain consistent, square material with the MFT3, without having to spend a lot of setup time, or at the very least, less time, in setting the new MFT3 table for squareness, compared to the old table.

Assume that I own a table saw - my only aim here in this post is to compare the MFT3 and the MFT 1080 in the above regard.

Is there an improvement anyone, who owns BOTH an MFT3 and the mft 1080 table, with regard to the above?

If so, please give specifics as to why you feel so....what specifically did Festool change on the new table which helps to solve the squareness problems described above, and how do those improvements affect setup time?

 

[Frank Pellow]

OK thanks nickao for that comment I think you are the first one who has told me that it's good to have both and that they compliment each other, kind of gives me permission to buy a table saw .
...

Let me be the second to do so.  You can use an MFT and a guided circular saw and router to do everything that can be done with a table saw and I do when I am working offsite.  But, in my shop, there are some things that are easier and faster to do with a table saw.  And, I expect that mosty people here who own a guided circular saw/router also own a table saw.

 

[tvogel400]

Frank

Please pardon my snarky tone-But I would love for you to show me how to cut the female part of a bridle joint or how to resaw veneer on the mft.

I am still smitten w/ my 55 and really want a mft( I have made my own) and when I'm out on an install the 55 allows me to eschew the chop and table saw.

All that being said I would really have to be short on space- I mean working in a closet- to not have a table saw, heck we have two in my shop plus a panel

saw. Yes I would agree that the mft/ts55 combo will cover most of your average situations,but the set up would add lots of time and I'm trying to make a

living. We've got a 5hp saw stop(friggen love it) with the 52" biesmeyer copy in a pretty small shop and I could see switching to the 30" fence rail but I just

believe that a solid 3+hp table saw is the beating heart of any cabinet shop.

Tom

 

[jaegerhund]

I don't own a MFT or table saw (I just own a few Festool sanders) , as I am new to most things woodworking.  What I tend to hear on this forum, is that a MFT lets you get buy with "less of a table saw".  Maybe someone can expand on this.

Justin

 

[Stefan]

I also had trouble with the 1080mft and keeping it square. Yes it can be set up quickly but if you move the fence it does not return back to square wuthout having to re- set it.

I ended up purchasing more festool grub screws and washers and seting them into the side rails to act as 90 degree stops. I use the MFT on site and hence the need to remove the fence etc in transit and set it up on-site.

For the price and considering it's a Festool, the fence is just to flimsy. Untill I read this post I thoght I was it must be me and not the MFT that wasn't working!

Would I buy an MFT3....NO but I am going to a show in two weeks and I may change my mind...

 

[Frank Pellow]

Frank

Please pardon my snarky tone-But I would love for you to show me how to cut the female part of a bridle joint or how to resaw veneer on the mft.

I am still smitten w/ my 55 and really want a mft( I have made my own) and when I'm out on an install the 55 allows me to eschew the chop and table saw.

All that being said I would really have to be short on space- I mean working in a closet- to not have a table saw, heck we have two in my shop plus a panel

saw. Yes I would agree that the mft/ts55 combo will cover most of your average situations,but the set up would add lots of time and I'm trying to make a

living. We've got a 5hp saw stop(friggen love it) with the 52" biesmeyer copy in a pretty small shop and I could see switching to the 30" fence rail but I just

believe that a solid 3+hp table saw is the beating heart of any cabinet shop.

Tom

Maybe I should have said that I have not encountered anything that I can't do.  I confess that I don't even know what a  bridle joint is, but I do expect that some clever person could figure out how to cut one on an MFT.

I do own a 3hp cabinet table saw (a General 650) and I do use it a lot.

 

[Frank-Jan]

Reading the numerous threads on this forum of how to square up an mft has kept me from getting one. Eventually I did get a mft800 basic, as a stand for my kapex, and got the clamping elements for it.
After reading the Swensons' review of the mft3 I thought it would be what I expected the original to be, before I read about the fuss everytime you take off the rail.
When I got a discount a while back on whatever I ordered then, I just ordered a mft3 aswell, I got it about a week ago, but haven't used it yet, should be breaking it in tomorrow.
I do have a CS 70 saw, which uses the same fence-attachment in a V shaped groove, so I know that system works. Anyway the improvements for easier squaring up are the already mentioned fence attachment in the V-groove, and the top now has treaded metal inserts for the attachment to the profiles, so the table itself is more likely to be square.
I also ordered the stabilisers, but those where missing a part, (the metal brackets that attach to the profiles) so I couldn't install those yet, but without the stabilisers the table is more steady than I expected.

 

[nickao]

Nadsab the MFT/3 is better and simpler to use out of the box for squaring with the newer fence then the 1080's, period.

It was designed as an upgrade and to me Festool did upgrade the table, it's a better unit then the 1080's for many situations, mostly situations that deal with using the Festool included fence. But as a clamping and work table they are comparable except for the noted weight and height differences.

I like a heavier table and rarely need to even use the fence so it was easy for me to opt for the 1080's before they made the switch.

Nickao