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I have a question. I swear I saw something here before, but I can't find it. I would like to learn more about joining pieces at an offset/inset and/or joining pieces of different thicknesses. In effect, what I need is to better understand how to measure then be right in where I wil put my Dominos when I am not doing simple joins. Does this make any sense?
 
The technique in the above photos can be applied to any offset. Same thing for difference thickness in material. Just make sure you ALWAYS reference the same surface on the Domino.
 
I just used the trim stop for the first time and it worked well. However, I am now having difficulty removing the trim stop. I undid the little latches and pulled firmly on the Domino while holding the trim stop. Nothing happened. I assume it is a simple matter of mind over Festool, but I do not want to damage it with an incorrect removal technique. Any tips? I did not lubricate the trim stop as there was no mention of that in the instructions. [tongue]
 
jimbo51 said:
Hmmm.  I just tried to remove the trim stop again and it slipped off easily. 

The Domino is like a woman, if you are gentle it comes off.
 
This discussion is heading for the Festool After Hours Group  [big grin].  Maybe Shane can set up a 900 number for you guys.
 
GPowers said:
The technique in the above photos can be applied to any offset. Same thing for difference thickness in material. Just make sure you ALWAYS reference the same surface on the Domino.

Greg, I appreciate it, but I need something more descriptive and well, okay, I'll admit it, hand holding. I'm slow at this. Let's say I was joining two equal thickness pieces, edge to edge, but I want the back one 1/8 proud at the joint. Would I cut the "lower" piece with a 1/8" board under the domino, then cut the other one without? Or is there a better method with the fence?
 
Deke said:
GPowers said:
The technique in the above photos can be applied to any offset. Same thing for difference thickness in material. Just make sure you ALWAYS reference the same surface on the Domino.

Greg, I appreciate it, but I need something more descriptive and well, okay, I'll admit it, hand holding. I'm slow at this. Let's say I was joining two equal thickness pieces, edge to edge, but I want the back one 1/8 proud at the joint. Would I cut the "lower" piece with a 1/8" board under the domino, then cut the other one without? Or is there a better method with the fence?

Deke, the Domino has a metric scale on the side, that will take care of you.  Keep in mind the numbers on the plastic stepped scale are for material thickness (also it's for roughly centering mortises). Where as the metric scale is distance from the center of the cutter to the fence.  So, let's use your 1/8" offset example, assuming your material is 3/4".  You could set the Domino's fence to 10 mm by using the metric scale. That would put the mortise(s) approximately in the center of 3/4" stock.  To cut the mortise(s) in the offset piece you'd set the scale to 7 mm, that would you approximately an 1/8" offset.  You might have to some testing with your Domino to get to know how it cuts relative to its scale's readings if you want very fine precision. 
 
Brice Burrell said:
Deke said:
GPowers said:
The technique in the above photos can be applied to any offset. Same thing for difference thickness in material. Just make sure you ALWAYS reference the same surface on the Domino.

Greg, I appreciate it, but I need something more descriptive and well, okay, I'll admit it, hand holding. I'm slow at this. Let's say I was joining two equal thickness pieces, edge to edge, but I want the back one 1/8 proud at the joint. Would I cut the "lower" piece with a 1/8" board under the domino, then cut the other one without? Or is there a better method with the fence?

Deke, the Domino has a metric scale on the side, that will take care of you.  Keep in mind the numbers on the plastic stepped scale are for material thickness (also it's for roughly centering mortises). Where as the metric scale is distance from the center of the cutter to the fence.  So, let's use your 1/8" offset example, assuming your material is 3/4".  You could set the Domino's fence to 10 mm by using the metric scale. That would put the mortise(s) approximately in the center of 3/4" stock.  To cut the mortise(s) in the offset piece you'd set the scale to 7 mm, that would you approximately an 1/8" offset.  You might have to some testing with your Domino to get to know how it cuts relative to its scale's readings if you want very fine precision.  

Thanks Brice! Dumb question #472. You and most people register the Domino from the top of the piece even though it would be possible to register from the bottom/flat bench top. I need to think this through and use the best method for the cut. For straight even joins I have been using the bench top approach (close enough to center on 3/4 pieces), but I am still new and need to get my hands dirty and make lots of test cuts and experiment.
 
I generally don't register off of a bench. One issue is the chance of error goes up some, if you get debris on the bench and register off it your mortise is wrong.  Also, and more importantly, is you're limited to the 10 mm from the Domino base to the center of the cutter.  When you register from the top/fence you've got the entire range of the Domino fence, that's about 7 to 30 mm.
 
Brice Burrell said:
I generally don't register off of a bench. One issue is the chance of error goes up some, if you get debris on the bench and register off it your mortise is wrong.  Also, and more importantly, is you're limited to the 10 mm from the Domino base to the center of the cutter.  When you register from the top/fence you've got the entire range of the Domino fence, that's about 7 to 30 mm.

Thanks Brice! I will change the way I do this. Can you tell I am basically trying to run before learning to crawl here?  [smile] Still, don't blame me. The Domino is so cool I have been getting outstanding results without really taking the time to know what the heck I am doing. I have a friend who is a pro (unlike me) and he has had one for over a year and keeps saying, "I really need to sit down and figure out all the things this can do."
 
???I can't do a dry fit with any size domino because when I put them in I can't get them out without ruining them with pliers.
Any advise would greatly be appreciated.
 
A well-known issue. You have a couple of options.

1. Sand a few dominoes and keep them to one side for dry-fitting purposes.
2. I use a locking wrench to pull the dominoes out. I have found that the jaws on these tend to not ruin the dominoes if I set it right. Also, I place a thin piece of wood between the wrench and the workpiece and lever the dominoes out rather than trying to pull them out. 
 
Yeahbaby said:
???I can't do a dry fit with any size domino because when I put them in I can't get them out without ruining them with pliers.
Any advise would greatly be appreciated.

I have a pair of these for removing Dominos from dry fit.  I can rest the non-marring edge on the edge of the workpiece and pry them out without marring the edge of either the workpiece or the flat face of the Domino.  Way better than the wiglle-wiggle method of free hand pulling, or having to use a scrap piece of wood in between somewhat required when using other type pliers to avoid marring the workpiece.  The inner jaw face does not rip the face of the Domino as well like other pliers as it tends to pull it out with much less effort as well.

http://www.amazon.com/Williams-PL-126C-Thin-Chain-Pliers/dp/B005GXPK2E/ref=sr_1_131?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1346165422&sr=1-131

This type of 90 degree right angle plier was seldom ever used in my home since I bought it 15 years ago at Costco in a mixed assortment pack of long neck pliers, but since I've got a Domino, it sits no further than a few from it ready to use.  The right angle part on mine extend from where they curve about 1 1/4 inches out.  Not sure how smaller ones might fare.
 
Another suggestion I read in another thread here, in addition to sanding some down, is to drill through-holes on both ends (so it looks like a double-1 domino).  Make the holes large enough to put a nail through, then you've got an easy way to pull out tight dry-fit dominos.

This also helps mark them as your dry-fit dominos so they don't accidentally get used.  Or you can reach for them in a pinch during a frenzied glue-up when nothing else will fit.
 
sheeschen said:
Another suggestion I read in another thread here, in addition to sanding some down, is to drill through-holes on both ends (so it looks like a double-1 domino).  Make the holes large enough to put a nail through, then you've got an easy way to pull out tight dry-fit dominos.

This also helps mark them as your dry-fit dominos so they don't accidentally get used.  Or you can reach for them in a pinch during a frenzied glue-up when nothing else will fit.

Nice ideas.  Haven't read of those before.  Thanks for repeating them!  [smile]
 
I don't think it's in this thread, but I'd like to share a blog post that I did, The Ultimate Festool Domino Guide. It has a ton of resources related to the Domino.

http://blog.festoolusa.com/post/2012/06/28/The-Ultimate-Festool-Domino-Guide.aspx

In case you didn't see it, the Domino DF 500 and Domino XL will be 10% off in the US/Canada during May and June 2014, as well as related accessories and tenons.

YouTube playlists for the Domino 500 and XL:

HTML:

Shane
 
This is a great thread.  Perhaps I missed something earlier; but I don't see references to which Domino model is being used with regard to the question or solution.  Wouldn't it be important to include this info?
 
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