jimbo51 said:Hmmm. I just tried to remove the trim stop again and it slipped off easily.
GPowers said:The technique in the above photos can be applied to any offset. Same thing for difference thickness in material. Just make sure you ALWAYS reference the same surface on the Domino.
Deke said:GPowers said:The technique in the above photos can be applied to any offset. Same thing for difference thickness in material. Just make sure you ALWAYS reference the same surface on the Domino.
Greg, I appreciate it, but I need something more descriptive and well, okay, I'll admit it, hand holding. I'm slow at this. Let's say I was joining two equal thickness pieces, edge to edge, but I want the back one 1/8 proud at the joint. Would I cut the "lower" piece with a 1/8" board under the domino, then cut the other one without? Or is there a better method with the fence?
Brice Burrell said:Deke said:GPowers said:The technique in the above photos can be applied to any offset. Same thing for difference thickness in material. Just make sure you ALWAYS reference the same surface on the Domino.
Greg, I appreciate it, but I need something more descriptive and well, okay, I'll admit it, hand holding. I'm slow at this. Let's say I was joining two equal thickness pieces, edge to edge, but I want the back one 1/8 proud at the joint. Would I cut the "lower" piece with a 1/8" board under the domino, then cut the other one without? Or is there a better method with the fence?
Deke, the Domino has a metric scale on the side, that will take care of you. Keep in mind the numbers on the plastic stepped scale are for material thickness (also it's for roughly centering mortises). Where as the metric scale is distance from the center of the cutter to the fence. So, let's use your 1/8" offset example, assuming your material is 3/4". You could set the Domino's fence to 10 mm by using the metric scale. That would put the mortise(s) approximately in the center of 3/4" stock. To cut the mortise(s) in the offset piece you'd set the scale to 7 mm, that would you approximately an 1/8" offset. You might have to some testing with your Domino to get to know how it cuts relative to its scale's readings if you want very fine precision.
Brice Burrell said:I generally don't register off of a bench. One issue is the chance of error goes up some, if you get debris on the bench and register off it your mortise is wrong. Also, and more importantly, is you're limited to the 10 mm from the Domino base to the center of the cutter. When you register from the top/fence you've got the entire range of the Domino fence, that's about 7 to 30 mm.
Yeahbaby said:???I can't do a dry fit with any size domino because when I put them in I can't get them out without ruining them with pliers.
Any advise would greatly be appreciated.
sheeschen said:Another suggestion I read in another thread here, in addition to sanding some down, is to drill through-holes on both ends (so it looks like a double-1 domino). Make the holes large enough to put a nail through, then you've got an easy way to pull out tight dry-fit dominos.
This also helps mark them as your dry-fit dominos so they don't accidentally get used. Or you can reach for them in a pinch during a frenzied glue-up when nothing else will fit.
The Ultimate Festool Domino Guide. It has a ton of resources related to the Domino.
http://blog.festoolusa.com/post/2012/06/28/The-Ultimate-Festool-Domino-Guide.aspx