Help, my first countertop

[GreenGA]

Up till now, I have never had the need to make a countertop for any of my projects.  As of this past weekend, I have that need.

So, I thought I would post the question to the FOG asking for any and all advice on how to do this properly!  Minimum thickness (I'm thinking 1 1/4"; 1/2" + 3/4"), proper gluing techniques to glue the plywood and MDF together (do I need cauls, or just clamps, etc...),  gluing the formica material to the top, trimming the formica properly....  As I said, anything and everything.

The top is nothing special, just a rectangular top, about 12" x 72".  It will sit on top of a bank of walls cabinets used as base cabinets in an upstairs hall closet.

Thanks.

 

[sw1211]

I assume you'll be using laminate.  When I did one for our house I used,http://www.kuehnbevel.com/ for the edging.  This eliminates the black seem of laminates.  I used the bevel edge with white on the bevel and the counter top color on the vertical edge.  The white added a nice contrast.  They also will build backsplashes, which it doesn't sound like you need.  It's been a number of years since I did this counter top, if memory is correct 1.5" thick, makes it easy to use two pieces of 3/4" material.  Didn't use cauls, glue and screws. Again, based on memory I didn't use two full sheets.  On the underside of the top sheet,  I just ran a "border" of 3/4" material 4" (or so) wide around the outside edges and then a few pieces across where it would sit on top of the cabinet sides.  Just square up the top sheet, attach the 4"  border a bit proud of the top and then use a flush trim bit to align the two edges.  Contact cement to attach the top trim with a flush trim bit. Rout the groove for the edging and attach with glue. The pros may have better suggestions, this is what worked for me.

 

[mastercabman]

You can use 3/4" particle board or plywood.Usually counter top are 1 1/2" thick.
Cut a deck,then put a build up strip around the edge.(about 2 1/2" - 4" wide)
Use contact cement,try not to use that roll on glue,Does not stick very well.When i have a small job or repair to do,i get the spray can.
You can get contact cement in a spray can from a laminate or cabinet maker supplier.They are worth it.
Wilsonart,3M, CON-BOND  just a few name that i have used in the past and worked very good.
If you just want a regular edge band,apply it first,rout it,sand the top edge with a belt sander,then you can glue the deck.
Or if you want to apply a bevel edge like Steve-co is talking about,stick the deck then glue the edge.
Be aware that if you do decide to put a bevel edge,you need to order it,and it may take up to a couple of weeks to get it depending on color selection.

Good luck with your project.

 

[GreenGA]

Let me see if I understand you correctly Steve...

You used laminate from a manufacturer that provides color in their product all the way through the laminate and not just the top coat?  With this, you used the same laminate on the side/front of the top which allowed you to match the top in color.  The color in the "center/beveled-edge" of the laminate was white; which I assume allowed the differentiation between the top and sides...

Instead of two "full" layers of 3/4" material, you used some 4" wide pieces around the edge on the bottom of top piece to make the top "look like" it was 1 1/2" thick.  You allowed the 4" wide pieces to sit a bit proud of the top and then used a flush trim bit to trim the overhang flush with the top.

You used contact cement to adhere the laminate to the top and sides and you also routed a small dado in the sides of the final built-up piece to attach some type of edging material.

Do I understand you correctly?  If so, and even if not, thanks for the information.  I had not thought about a laminate material with color all the way through.  That's something I certainly need to consider; even if this "countertop" is being installed in an upstairs hall closet.  The idea of an edging material is a good one.  The cabinets in this closet are oak so a piece of oak along the front of the countertop should look good.

As you surmised, I do not need a backsplash in this situation.

I assume you'll be using laminate.  When I did one for our house I used,http://www.kuehnbevel.com/ for the edging.  This eliminates the black seem of laminates.  I used the bevel edge with white on the bevel and the counter top color on the vertical edge.  The white added a nice contrast.  They also will build backsplashes, which it doesn't sound like you need.  It's been a number of years since I did this counter top, if memory is correct 1.5" thick, makes it easy to use two pieces of 3/4" material.  Didn't use cauls, glue and screws. Again, based on memory I didn't use two full sheets.  On the underside of the top sheet,  I just ran a "border" of 3/4" material 4" (or so) wide around the outside edges and then a few pieces across where it would sit on top of the cabinet sides.  Just square up the top sheet, attach the 4"  border a bit proud of the top and then use a flush trim bit to align the two edges.  Contact cement to attach the top trim with a flush trim bit. Rout the groove for the edging and attach with glue. The pros may have better suggestions, this is what worked for me.

 

[GreenGA]

MasterCabMan...,

The first question I would ask is, would 3/4" MDF work in place of 3/4" particle board?
What do you mean by a 2 1/2 - 4" wide strip around the edge?  Are saying instead of an "edge" that is the same thickness of the top ( 1 1/2" ) you recommend something thicker?
The "roll on glue"...  Is this the roll on type of contact cement or "glue" in the common sense?  All I ever recall reading/watching about countertops is the canned contact cement.

Spray-on contact cement for small jobs.  Now that sounds like a winner in my situation.

You can use 3/4" particle board or plywood.Usually counter top are 1 1/2" thick.
Cut a deck,then put a build up strip around the edge.(about 2 1/2" - 4" wide)
Use contact cement,try not to use that roll on glue,Does not stick very well.When i have a small job or repair to do,i get the spray can.
You can get contact cement in a spray can from a laminate or cabinet maker supplier.They are worth it.
Wilsonart,3M, CON-BOND  just a few name that i have used in the past and worked very good.
Good luck with your project.

Now, these comments I would ask if you could expound on.  I'm not exactly certain what you're saying. I think I do, but....  ???

If you just want a regular edge band,apply it first,rout it,sand the top edge with a belt sander,then you can glue the deck.
Or if you want to apply a bevel edge like Steve-co is talking about,stick the deck then glue the edge.
Be aware that if you do decide to put a bevel edge,you need to order it,and it may take up to a couple of weeks to get it depending on color selection.

Oh, while I your, and possibly everyone else's, attention...

Could I use a domino to attach the edge material to the front of the countertop?  I need to work on my domino'ing skill and a friend offered me the use of her domino while I wait for mine.

Thanks, to everyone, for the assists I am receiving.

Happy Holidays to all! 

 

[woodshopdemos]

Finally found the illustrated step-by-step of adding the Formica...

and here is the page:
http://www.woodshopdemos.com/kitc-11.htm

 

[GreenGA]

Wow, John.  Thanks!

I really like those bits about the little gotcha's that I am certain, or was certain, to encounter.

Again, thanks!

Keep up the great work!

 

[sw1211]

Let me see if I understand you correctly Steve...

You used laminate from a manufacturer that provides color in their product all the way through the laminate and not just the top coat?  With this, you used the same laminate on the side/front of the top which allowed you to match the top in color.  The color in the "center/beveled-edge" of the laminate was white; which I assume allowed the differentiation between the top and sides...

The laminate I used did not have color all the way through it.  When I attached the edge from Keuhn, it covered the dark underlayment of the laminate.

Instead of two "full" layers of 3/4" material, you used some 4" wide pieces around the edge on the bottom of top piece to make the top "look like" it was 1 1/2" thick.  You allowed the 4" wide pieces to sit a bit proud of the top and then used a flush trim bit to trim the overhang flush with the top.

Yes.

You used contact cement to adhere the laminate to the top and sides and you also routed a small dado in the sides of the final built-up piece to attach some type of edging material.

Yes, the edging comes with a tongue (I beleive this is the correct terminology) built into it which fits right into the groove/dado.  I think they can also be ordered without the tongue.  Contact cement wasn't used with the sides, just glue.  If you're just using laminate to cover the sides then use contact cement.  If you buy edging that has the laminate attached to MDF, use glue.

Do I understand you correctly?  If so, and even if not, thanks for the information.  I had not thought about a laminate material with color all the way through.  That's something I certainly need to consider; even if this "countertop" is being installed in an upstairs hall closet.  The idea of an edging material is a good one.  The cabinets in this closet are oak so a piece of oak along the front of the countertop should look good.

Keuhn might also carry oak edging that they will add your laminate to that runs down the middle of it in a shallow dado, tieing the top together with the sides.

As you surmised, I do not need a backsplash in this situation.

I assume you'll be using laminate.  When I did one for our house I used,http://www.kuehnbevel.com/ for the edging.  This eliminates the black seem of laminates.  I used the bevel edge with white on the bevel and the counter top color on the vertical edge.  The white added a nice contrast.  They also will build backsplashes, which it doesn't sound like you need.  It's been a number of years since I did this counter top, if memory is correct 1.5" thick, makes it easy to use two pieces of 3/4" material.  Didn't use cauls, glue and screws. Again, based on memory I didn't use two full sheets.  On the underside of the top sheet,  I just ran a "border" of 3/4" material 4" (or so) wide around the outside edges and then a few pieces across where it would sit on top of the cabinet sides.  Just square up the top sheet, attach the 4"  border a bit proud of the top and then use a flush trim bit to align the two edges.  Contact cement to attach the top trim with a flush trim bit. Rout the groove for the edging and attach with glue. The pros may have better suggestions, this is what worked for me.

 

[woodshopdemos]

Letme respond to the Kuehn Bevel portions of the answer.  Their speciatly is shaped edges. They have a 1 1/2 edge with a bevel on top. They can use any laminate that is made. You can half two tones ex: a white on the bevel is popluar. They do make with a tongue but without a tongue is easier.
   To mount to your laminated top, you start at one end and clamp the end. Then proceed along the side using tape to hold it on. I used filament packing tape every 4". I would cut a 6" lewngth and place the one end under the counter and pull the tape tight over the bevel stock and onto the top. There is enough stretch in that tape so that it is a real good clamping method.

Here is the URL: http://www.kuehnbevel.com/

It is areal nice way to make a better laminated top.

from their website