Help! Need Delta Unisaw Switch

kelauben

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Joined
Apr 16, 2011
Messages
160
Hi everyone.  I'm hoping someone here might be able to help me.  I've got a Delta Platinum Unisaw 36-945 that the cover of the switch just broke off. While a little duct tape and baling wire might work, I figured I'd see if anyone has any ideas of decent replacements.  The original equipment part number is 438-01-016-0199.

I've found everything from a Grizzly magnetic switch at $45 to a Delta A26314S switch for $229.  Given that I only paid $600 for the saw to begin with, I'm trying not to be forced to spend $229 on a switch from Delta.  Does anyone have any suggestions.

Thanks for any suggestions from a trusted group.

Karl
 
there can't be anything magic about a power switch for a 3hp single phase table saw. Have you tried your friendly Allen Bradley distributor and asked them for a recommendation?
Hans
 
one more thought:
when you examine the inside of the (disconnected) defective OEM switch can you see how actually makes it molded or stamped inside?
Hans
 
[member=11223]kelauben[/member] I think that the original switch assembly on that saw also includes an overload protection device, which is why the official Delta one is higher priced.

If the switch still functions you might just want to try to repair it instead of replacing it. Can you post up a picture of the thing and what's broken?
 
rvieceli said:
[member=11223]kelauben[/member] I think that the original switch assembly on that saw also includes an overload protection device, which is why the official Delta one is higher priced.

If the switch still functions you might just want to try to repair it instead of replacing it. Can you post up a picture of the thing and what's broken?

The cover is broken at the part where the screws hold the cover on. The switch still functions just fine. While I'm sure tape may actually work, I think the plastic material is starting to break down and has become brittle to the point it'll just fall apart at some point. I'll post some pictures here shortly.

Karl

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
kelauben said:
rvieceli said:
[member=11223]kelauben[/member] I think that the original switch assembly on that saw also includes an overload protection device, which is why the official Delta one is higher priced.

If the switch still functions you might just want to try to repair it instead of replacing it. Can you post up a picture of the thing and what's broken?

The cover is broken at the part where the screws hold the cover on. The switch still functions just fine. While I'm sure tape may actually work, I think the plastic material is starting to break down and has become brittle to the point it'll just fall apart at some point. I'll post some pictures here shortly.

Karl

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Here's the pictures. Just need to find a cover.

e668b59f27369bd624bf6b2268d22120.jpg
087b6bad3b2a5e3de81a3364432988d9.jpg
0bbab429632cef20068ef2af9a6e09cc.jpg
f76412adc622eaf9c45e32cee604c79e.jpg
3a4d8b5ebe27795dc87f963d17fbad07.jpg


Thanks

Karl

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
It appears to me that Delta considers that switch assembly to be one unit. Don't think you can buy just the cover plate, unfortunately.

Ron

As long as the switch still works, I would concentrate on figuring out some way to patch the cover plate.
 
given the simplicity of the part, just find someone with someone with a BRIDGEPORT mill to make a functional replica out of comparable material (metal, plastic whatever) - less than a hundred bucks any day.
Hans
 
A glob of JB WELD would probably work, not pretty but functional. I use the stuff to rebuild broken plastic car parts like this dash panel I worked on this weekend

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I'd just put a stainless fender washer under the screw to hold the switch face in place.  $.50 fix.
 
Thanks for all the suggestions.  I think the fender washer or the JB Weld will work best.

I appreciate all the feedback.

Karl
 
Use a Dremel tool to cut away the top cover so that you have only a flat face plate left.

Then buy an aluminum project box of the appropriate size.  Drill the needed holes for the on/off buttons in the lid of the aluminum project box.  Then glue the "face plate" to the lid.

Reassemble everything into the project box and voila!  You have a durable aluminum switch box that will last a long time but the cover still looks like an original Delta.

aluminum project box
 
Hello Everyone,
I have a similar switch to Kelauben. My switch is a Type-12 for a 5hp Unisaw. My problem is my saw has come on twice by itself. Once when I was in my shop once when I was not even there. I walked in and the saw was running. I post this for two reasons after 40 years of using a table saw I did not know this could happen. It is a warning to all to unplug your saw when changing a blade. I admit I have not done this in the pasted and luckily I still have all 10 fingers. The second reason, is there a solution to fix this switch or just buy a new one. If the solution is to buy a new one does anyone know of non Delta replacement switch?
Thanks,
Jeff
 
JRD said:
Hello Everyone,
I have a similar switch to Kelauben. My switch is a Type-12 for a 5hp Unisaw. My problem is my saw has come on twice by itself. Once when I was in my shop once when I was not even there. I walked in and the saw was running. I post this for two reasons after 40 years of using a table saw I did not know this could happen. It is a warning to all to unplug your saw when changing a blade. I admit I have not done this in the pasted and luckily I still have all 10 fingers. The second reason, is there a solution to fix this switch or just buy a new one. If the solution is to buy a new one does anyone know of non Delta replacement switch?
Thanks,
Jeff

Never heard of that happening before, but don't doubt it's possible. Glad it never caught you with your fingers in harms way. As much of a pain as it is I make a habit of opening the manual disconnect switch for the TS which removes all power from the saw whenever I change blades, leave the shop, or do anything to the saw. It's really not that much of a bother as the switch is only 12 feet away and I've been good about using it.

I would say there must be something wrong with that switch to cause the saw to start up on its own. Either troubleshoot and repair or replace before it does catch you off guard and cost you a finger.
 
If you have all the pieces, you can put it back together with super glue and baking soda. Put the pieces
in place add super glue then sprinkle on some baking soda. have fixed many things this way. Process is used on helicopter blades for repairs.
 
Bob,

Thanks for the responds. I just ended up buying a new switch today.
 
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