Help please!

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Kylec57

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Aug 4, 2015
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I have ten 250x250 mm beams to be notched and cut to form roof trusses next week. Can anyone recommend the best way to cut these? Is there anything bar a chainsaw that will cut 250mm? 
 
Its no the 1800s mate! [tongue] na I'm happy to use a handsaw was just wondering if there's any thing out there the timber framers who do these all the time use that's all
 
Good sharp 7tpi handsaw, sliding bevel,square, 2" chisel and mallet, porridge and you re set up for it

Its only 10 beams its not cost effective to spend that amount of money on timberframe power tools unless its all you do

I would not think twice about doing it by hand , go old school , you might enjoy it  [wink]
 
A handsaw would indeed do fine. But you can always rent a chainsaw if you want. Keep in mind they're dangerous tools.

The craftsmen have various ways of cutting trusses, but the tools they use, like sword saws or really big circular saws are very expensive, not something you'd buy for just 10 beams.
 
If it is a birds mouth notch, a router sled type of template is as an option.
But a saw and a slick is the slick way to do it.
 
Maybe you could rent a large Makita circular saw from a tool rental shop?
 
BMAC said:
Maybe you could rent a large Makita circular saw from a tool rental shop?
Click to expand...

I have checked the local hire shops and none have anything close in stock but one Mabey able to get the makita that cuts to 127mm waiting on reply I honestly don't mind doing it by hand it was just to speed up the process a bit that's all
 
Holmz said:
If it is a birds mouth notch, a router sled type of template is as an option.
But a saw and a slick is the slick way to do it.
Click to expand...

They are nothing to fancy just half lapped so it would be a 125mmx250mm check do you know if you get a router bit or extension that allows the router to plunge to that depth?
 
I would assume one could clear out most of it with a saw.
The router bit taking off a few mm or a few 1/16" would not be too bad on the bottom, but the sides seem like a lot of plunges would be required to get there... and a long lever arm, means you to not want to have a lot of force on the bit.http://www.rockler.com/rockler-rout...nRaIs4f35lm5o6-xxFv29l-z0W6tDiSVcnRoCCVTw_wcB

I am not expert no this stuff. So I would use a saw and a slick.

You could probably have a home-made mitre-type template to aid in a Japanese pull-saw being held straight for the sides.
Maybe some plunge-saw to start the sides on or near a line, and then bang away with a chisel to remove the waste.
An auger bit and a drilling station could also potentially help to make some holes from the sides so you have a reference and a relieved corner to 'bang it out' to.
 
Yea I know where your coming from Im always going to be cutting slightly off the line and finishing with chisel anyway for the best finish. happy days thank you for your help!
Holmz said:
I would assume one could clear out most of it with a saw.
The router bit taking off a few mm or a few 1/16" would not be too bad on the bottom, but the sides seem like a lot of plunges would be required to get there... and a long lever arm, means you to not want to have a lot of force on the bit.http://www.rockler.com/rockler-rout...nRaIs4f35lm5o6-xxFv29l-z0W6tDiSVcnRoCCVTw_wcB

I am not expert no this stuff. So I would use a saw and a slick.

You could probably have a home-made mitre-type template to aid in a Japanese pull-saw being held straight for the sides.
Maybe some plunge-saw to start the sides on or near a line, and then bang away with a chisel to remove the waste.
An auger bit and a drilling station could also potentially help to make some holes from the sides so you have a reference and a relieved corner to 'bang it out' to.
Click to expand...
 
To be clear - I have a faith in Japanese saws, so I would try making that on the line.  Just to keep the cut straight requires skill or some help... Hence the template, or vertical bars.

You could even use a track/plunge saw and give a 55-mm deep run at it, then wedge a piece of plastic between the Japanese saw and the extra kerf...Then you only have the bottom to worry and hand-wring over. (Assuming the sides work out A-OK)
 
If they are just half lap and housing joints , the way to speed this up is a chainsaw  cut on the waste side and clean up to the line with a large chisel  You would have to plunge bore at some point to remove waste , the plunge bore has an element of risk as you are using the nose of the bar.

IF YOU ARE NOT EXPERIENCE WITH A CHAINSAW AND DO NOT HAVE THE PROPER PPE

DO NOT USE ONE TO DO THIS WORK

 
If I was doing this job , i would

Mark up and layout the cuts
Cut the shoulders with a ts55 or 75
Cut down to the 125mm mark with the chainsaw(keeping away from the clean shoulder cut)
Plunge bore the waste and clean up with a 2inch chisel, you will have to find a chisel with a 125 mm working blade depth probably a paring chisel or a slick.

Please be aware of my previous post and warning , use the smallest bar reasonable . I have seen chainsaw accidents and believe me you dont want to be part of one ,they cut through hands, finger, feet and legs like butter. Dont assume chainsaw pants gloves and boots will save your limbs , they dont . They just limit the damage  . They are brilliant tools if properly looked after,sharp and used by an experience user , they also take no prisoners !!!!

EDIT
Rather than plunge bore cross cut the waste every 2 inches and break out the blocks
 
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