Help with keg pocket hole jig / paulk workbench

doctr-dan

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Joined
Dec 8, 2014
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18
Hi all,
Over the last couple of days in my spare time I have been getting the materials ready to assemble the paulk work bench.
This is the first timei have used the keg pocket hole jig and I did a test piece for depth of the drill first I did not test how it would effect the edge of the ply.
I've taken some pictures which I think will tell a better story.

 

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As you can see in the pics above the screw is blowing out the ply.
I've used 12mm ply or 1/2 inch if you prefer.
The pictures show the settings I used on the keg jig and the screws.
Thanks
 
This is weird. Those seem like the right settings. I've never used kreg with 1/2" ply but this doesn't add up. The piece with the pocket hole, does the screw exit in the centre of the ply? Is it possible you drove the screw in on the wrong angle? I've done that before where the screw made it's own path instead of following the pilot hole
 
Try adjusting 1/4" down. I use the Kreg at work a lot but for some reason I still mess it up every once in a while. I may have to look at the jig first hand tomorrow to give better advice :/
 
Hi

I have the UK version of the kreg jig and it won't work only material below 18mm thick

It looks pretty much identical to the kreg and it is a pain as 18mm is sometimes overkill

I don't have a solution unfortunately,

Good luck though

Adrian
 
That's the reason why I bought the UJK Pocket Hole Jig.
It does 12 mm material as well and is very well made, no plastic parts except the dust hose connector.
717273_inset2_xl.jpg
 
I would adj thhe debth setting of the drill and insure your are using the correct screw. They do have diffferent length screws. Plus there are screws for hardwood and ply.
 
neeleman said:
That's the reason why I bought the UJK Pocket Hole Jig.
It does 12 mm material as well and is very well made, no plastic parts except the dust hose connector.
717273_inset2_xl.jpg

I own that one and it drives me nuts. The UJK screw heads don't fit into the hole very well and it's all too easy to misdirect the screw away from the pilot hole. I've learnt to add lateral pressure to the screwdriver when putting the screws in, seems to help. Perhaps the OP may be doing something similar, or the wrong way.

The holes from my one hole portable Kreg jig are actually better to my mind than the UJK using the same screws.
 
neeleman said:
That's the reason why I bought the UJK Pocket Hole Jig.
It does 12 mm material as well and is very well made, no plastic parts except the dust hose connector.

Actually it's a metal connector.
 
Wuffles said:
I own that one and it drives me nuts. The UJK screw heads don't fit into the hole very well and it's all too easy to misdirect the screw away from the pilot hole. I've learnt to add lateral pressure to the screwdriver when putting the screws in, seems to help. Perhaps the OP may be doing something similar, or the wrong way.

The holes from my one hole portable Kreg jig are actually better to my mind than the UJK using the same screws.

It's not just me then! I couldn't decide if it was the screws or the holes (jig) ... and settled for user error :)
 
Not on mine, it's made of plastic.
I received the Jig only this week, so they might have changed that lately.
I was surprised that it came with a new QCS drill bit which also suits the Centrotec system.
But alas the Torx 20 bit was a normal ¼" hex shank.
Nobody may have noticed this while Axminster do sell long these T20 QCS bits lately.
506508_xl.jpg
506614_xl.jpg
 
neeleman said:
Not on mine, it's made of plastic.
I received the Jig only this week, so they might have changed that lately.
I was surprised that it came with a new QCS drill bit which also suits the Centrotec system.
But alas the Torx 20 bit was a normal ¼" hex shank.
Nobody may have noticed this while Axminster do sell long these T20 QCS bits lately.

I doubt the plastic is better or worse.

Phone 'em about the torx bit they usually respond well to feedback.

 
Search amazon for "kreg mini"  It's made for thinner stock. Comes with smaller drill and block that fits in your current jig. It's not perfect but better.
 
neeleman said:
Not on mine, it's made of plastic.
I received the Jig only this week, so they might have changed that lately.
I was surprised that it came with a new QCS drill bit which also suits the Centrotec system.
But alas the Torx 20 bit was a normal ¼" hex shank.
Nobody may have noticed this while Axminster do sell long these T20 QCS bits lately.
506508_xl.jpg
506614_xl.jpg

Perhaps the price of the hose connector has dropped if they're now shipping plastic.
 
The only suggestions I have, is trying to back off your depth of cut about 1mm and make sure your not angling the screw. Wish I could help more, keep trying in scrap wood.
 
Part of your problems is the way you have the screw and pocket placed, its completely useless for holding power. While the way you have drilled the pocket hole is cosmetic by moving the hole to other side of the piece you completely eliminate the whole issue  and will have holding power and no blow through.

John
 
You might check the torque settings on your driver.  It looks to me like those screws are being over-driven.  That's happened to me before- in the effort to pull the joint tight, I've allowed the screw head to drive through the bottom of the pocket.
 
ewils91 said:
I know Kreg has a micro jig insert that does a better job of pocket hole placement in material 1/2 inch or less. I bought one after having the same issue.

https://www.kregtool.com/store/c22/kreg-jigreg-accessories/p60/micro-pockettrade-drill-guide/

The Micro jig does do a better job on thin stock; I just wish Kreg would make it more visible in their marketing so that folks like the OP and I would know it exists BEFORE we encounter issues with the K4/K5 jigs.

Note too that Ron Paulk went away from pocket screws on his Total Station.

John makes a good point about putting the pockets on the outside for the perimeter screws;  it would help the screw situation at the cost of looking pretty ugly.

To the OP:

I'm contemplating a Paulk build and have been pondering the screw issue so this is a Timely thread for me.  I hope you get your issue resolved and share it with the board and continue to share pix as you progress. 

-Tom in SoCal
 
Dane said:
You might check the torque settings on your driver.  It looks to me like those screws are being over-driven.  That's happened to me before- in the effort to pull the joint tight, I've allowed the screw head to drive through the bottom of the pocket.

+1: You're using the correct length screw and depth, but over driving.

Other posters make a good point about this applications's (lack of) strength.  Maybe another strategy?  Angle clips? Glue blocks? Thicker top material?
 
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