Help with keg pocket hole jig / paulk workbench

[blakjak220]

1/2 inch material is tricky... Just slide the collar down on the bit slightly, like 1/64th or less and that usually keeps them from coming out the other side. Have to kind of adjust the collar and test it and fine tune it to make sure it's still getting a good bite in the other piece but not coming through. Can't torque down too much either way or they'll still blow out the back.

 

[rizzoa13]

I would like to know where you bought this combo pocket hole/kegerator that we are discussing as it bridges two of my loves, beer and wood working!

Sorry i just had to, carry on!

 

[mark60]

I don't know if it helps but Kreg's website shows a 3/4" screw for 1/2" material.

 

[sae]

I don't know if it helps but Kreg's website shows a 3/4" screw for 1/2" material.

It says both, but the 1" would have less tolerance to being overdriven.

 

[doctr-dan]

I'll try a couple of the solutions mentioned with the settings.
Failing that I think I'll just have to put them on the outside instead as the supplier of kreg products here won't have the micro drill guide for a week and if like to finish it today.
Also to try 3/4 lenght screws would be a 2hr trip which I'm not sure is worth it.
Sure the holes will look ugly on the outside which is disappointing but I guess it is only a work bench and they shouldn't effect the operation.

 

[NEW2FES]

1" is for 3/4 and at that it is close so unless you really back off penetration I see you having issues.

They make screws that have a dual pattern coarse/fine that I find work the best. There is also fine adjustments you can make if you insist on the 1" screws.

 

[sandy]

Another thing that no one has mentioned is that you used settings for 1/2" material, while most, so-called 1/2" plywood, is actually under thickness.  Combining under-thickness plywood with your 1/2" settings, 1" screws, and overdriving, your results are pretty much doomed from the beginning.  Due to these issues, and the fact that material, unless really well clamped, tends to slide when using a Kreg jig (sorry, but it does have an "r" in it, although a "keg" might come in handy in this build), has caused me to forego its use.  I would use my Domino joiner (NOTE: No "t" in "joiner", as it's a tool used to "join", rather than "joint", which is not to be confused with the fact that it's used to create a joint) with 4 mm Dominos and the Domiplate to get the joints properly aligned, and either glue it all together or screw the bottoms up from the bottom and the tops down from the top (countersunk, of course).

 

[Srbrownjr175]

I know Kreg has a micro jig insert that does a better job of pocket hole placement in material 1/2 inch or less. I bought one after having the same issue.

https://www.kregtool.com/store/c22/kreg-jigreg-accessories/p60/micro-pockettrade-drill-guide/

I agree with this EXCEPT with solid material or high grade ply. If using lesser ply like for a work bench or shelving the standard bit will blow out the ply. Just my .02

 

[jaymon5]

I had the same problem when i built my Paulk bench.  I had better success by making sure that the screw started closer to the pocket hole side.  There is some slop in the hole and this can make a difference.  When driving screws i always try and keep the driver more in line with the piece that has the pocket hole.  In the end, I put the pocket holes in the described locations and because i was also using domino's and glue, only put screws in where needed.  If you have a domino, that might be an option for you.  I also agree that the kreg micro jig might have better results.    I have had my bench for some time now and it is holding up nicely.

 

[Pugster10]

Note too that Ron Paulk went away from pocket screws on his Total Station.

Really! Interesting. Where did you find this out?

 

[hopper]

I built the Paulk workbench too and had trouble with the 1/2" pocket holes so I took a completely different path.  I glued and screwed it together using #6 x 1" screws on the surface. After the glue dried, I removed the screws one at a time and replaced them with 1/4" hardwood dowels (glued in) that way I had no worries of hitting screws (metal) while cutting with my TS 55.  I also reinforced all the joints by gluing in cant strips (see photo). I suppose 5mm dominos would work just as good as dowels probably would look prettier too.  It is very strong I can stand and jump up and down on it.

 

[RENO]

As i recently began my new project "PAULK TOTAL STATION" i used the 1' screws and the smal Kreg-jig for the bottom and for the ribs side. I used a 3mm raise under the material and adjusted the drill to match the screws with the 12mm material. The top-deck is pre-drilled and used thin 3mm crews.
I think the Kreg company has to re-design the 12mm jig/drill, couse it stinks! [mad]
Anyway the build started oké, hope to end it the same way, ill show the pic's when finished.

 

[RENO]

meanwhile...

[cool]

 

[birchwoodwerks]

Ive had a lot of customers have the same issue. What we have found is that if cheat the depth settings it works a lot better. So if its saying 1/2" back it off a little bit

 

[chris s]

Make sure the spacer block is installed .