Help...

[nickao]

Oh yeah you can get adapters anywhere. To make it most comfortable I would reduce the 4" to a 1 1/2" hose for about 8 or 10 feet before you hook it into the sander.

SO you basically need 10 feet of the 1 1/2 inch hose and 1 adapter to get the 4" to the 1 1/2 and 1 adapter for the 1 1/2" hose to connect to the sander.

This is not mandatory but trying to move the sander around with a 2 " hose is uncomfortable let alone a 4" hose.

Actually you can go as small as 1 1/4" inch hose and that is a real easy vac hose to move around as you work.

Unless you have the Festool anti static vac you do not need to buy all those expensive festool hose adapters. I have purchased plenty of adapters from Fein and off Amazon for much less money.

I definitely would not go bigger than 2" hose becasue it is so hard to move the sander around. Here is a pic I have posted before that shown my 2" hose going to a router with a little 1 1/4" opening. The adapter was 4.99. You can see that adapter can be fit from 1" to a full 2" from a 2 " hose. But that big yellow hose it to much IMHO for the sander to move around comfortably.

 

[nickao]

You may also want to employ a blast gate so you could keep it full open or partially closed to mimic the variable suction of the Festool vacs. I always keep mine full power but some here are adamant(as is festool) that reducing suction for various projects is very helpful so the blast gate would be good if connecting to a central vac system. I am sure you have a large one you could use right before the reducer.

 

[monte]

Steven.........

Regarding your question about getting a Festool sander or some  Festool clamps.......

Do what Nick said.......get the sander.

Or,

Get the clamps, then the sander, then get more clamps  then some bowclamps! (Whoops, that's yet another subject)

...............................................

Ok, in all seriousness, below are some applications from just one photo library I opened to illustrate the power behind the simple Festool clamps combined with any of the mft's.......

[attachimg=#]

here I domino...ed an eight foot luan solid core to a two foot solid core to form a ten foot piece.
I used the fest-clamps to prevent it from bowing while being clamped up from end to end.
(for a part to a future project I will present at some future date)

[attachimg=#]

here I was beefing a panel with an additional piece of thin ply 
and used my bow clamps to apply an even flat pressure for the glue up.
(my vac bag was being used for something else)

Edit.......please spring forward to Feb 7th entry.

[attachimg=#]

In the pics above and below I used the fest-clamps and mft's  in unison with the Kreg pocket hole system system.
When using the Kreg system it's very important to hold secure your workpieces firmly when fastening your work together,
otherwise it has a nasty habit of slipping position slightly.

[attachimg=#]

 

[nickao]

Do you like those new Revo clamps?

I think that second picture with the crossing  Bowclamps on top of the 3 bottom Bowclamps may be a little overkill    I think where you have the pressure from the top clamps is not needed and the reason behind the Bowclamps in the first place is to eliminate those. I guess you can not really over clamp as long as the pressure is not to great.

Why are those Bowclamps on their sides? They do not act like Bowclamps like that. Is that why you have the top ones? It seems 3 pieces of wood would do as much as that bottom row of Bowclamps in this instance.

 

[monte]

Do you like those new Revo clamps?

I think that second picture with the crossing  Bowclamps on top of the 3 bottom Bowclamps may be a little overkill    I think where you have the pressure from the top clamps is not needed and the reason behind the Bowclamps in the first place is to eliminate those. I guess you can not really over clamp as long as the pressure is not to great.

Why are those Bowclamps on their sides? They do not act like Bowclamps like that. Is that why you have the top ones? It seems 3 pieces of wood would do as much as that bottom row of Bowclamps in this instance.

hmmm,

hi Nick.......

You know, when I downloaded that photo (with all the bowclamps) I set my stopwatch waiting for your response. ;D

Ok, that setup was a while back ......... In attempting to scour my memory for what appears to be a moment in channeling "Tim the Toolman"

the reason I best remember was that the glue I used at the time was Titebond and I think I put on more than what would have been necessary

so when I started clamping down in the classic bowclamp manor it was slipping and sliding way to much out of control. (the two panels to each other)

So I set down the three bowclamps down on the side to gently ease down the clamping pressure and that worked wonderfully.

So now at that point because I was basically using them as three sticks I needed to then apply pressure down the middle.

That's when I used the two on top. And yes, one on top would have been enough, but old "Tim" just had to take over.  :-\


Edit......please spring forward to my Feb. 7th entry. :-\

Regarding the Revos.......

I'll be back on that in a few days in another tread........

 

[nickao]

Well it is always hard to tell what is going on unless you are right there doing it.

I thought maybe you couldn't' get a consistent  pressure or something was happening at the time that could not come across in a picture. I am sure there were reasons at the time.

 

[honeydoman]

roger,

that is some clamping you got going on, especially with 4 mft tables.

 

[monte]

roger,

that is some clamping you got going on, especially with 4 mft tables.

.......and to reply to that time honored debate mft 1080/800 or mft/3 I much prefer the prior due to the lower height
(easier to bend over when having a workpiece on the table) and especially the use of the top t/tracks.

 

[Prater]

Thanks for the info guys.  On the Vacuum I have the blast gates and could not even imagine trying to run a handtool with a 4" vacuum hose attached...LOL

 

[Dave Ronyak]

Do you like those new Revo clamps?

I think that second picture with the crossing  Bowclamps on top of the 3 bottom Bowclamps may be a little overkill    I think where you have the pressure from the top clamps is not needed and the reason behind the Bowclamps in the first place is to eliminate those. I guess you can not really over clamp as long as the pressure is not to great.

Why are those Bowclamps on their sides? They do not act like Bowclamps like that. Is that why you have the top ones? It seems 3 pieces of wood would do as much as that bottom row of Bowclamps in this instance.

hmmm,

hi Nick.......

You know, when I downloaded that photo (with all the bowclamps) I set my stopwatch waiting for your response. ;D

Ok, that setup was a while back ......... In attempting to scour my memory for what appears to be a moment in channeling "Tim the Toolman"

the reason I best remember was that the glue I used at the time was Titebond and I think I put on more than what would have been necessary

so when I started clamping down in the classic bowclamp manor it was slipping and sliding way to much out of control. (the two panels to each other)

So I set down the three bowclamps down on the side to gently ease down the clamping pressure and that worked wonderfully.

So now at that point because I was basically using them as three sticks I needed to then apply pressure down the middle.

That's when I used the two on top. And yes, one on top would have been enough, but old "Tim" just had to take over.  :-\

Prater, sorry to digress and somewhat hijack your thread!!  Since you mentioned your plan to do major boat hull finish restoration work, I change my recommendation to the RO 150 sander.  You may have seen some of the now-old Festool promos demonstrating use of an RO 150 to strip sand a boat hull as it hangs above the workman.  Later you'll want to add an ETS 150/3 for fine finishing work.  Both machines use the same sanding and polishing supplies.

Roger,  I don't own any bow clamps (except a couple of crude, light duty, shop-made ones) but from watching the tutorial/infomercial at Bow Clamps official website, I thought when gluing veneer or panels face-to-face that one or more layers of MDF were recommended to assure the clamping load from the Bow Clamps was evenly distributed and fewer clamps needed.  Do you not agreed with that recommended practice?  Four MFT 1080s, you and Jerry Work must be in a conspiracy!!  ;D  Very nice work and demo of the utility of those MFTs and why many operations require lots of clamps of various types and sizes. 10 ft tall doors... hmmm... I'm waiting with much anticipation to see what you are making with those.

Dave R.

 

[Prater]

No problem on the hijack...I am here to learn and anything you guys discuss is soaked in

My boat project will be in stages.  Going to repair some blisters and repaint the deck on m Formula 357

 

[sw1211]

Here's a thread from someone about his fiberglass/boat project, he was real happy with the results.

http://festoolownersgroup.com/index.php?topic=2259.0

 

[Frank Pellow]

Here are a couple of pictures taken when I was working on a friend's boat and sanding fiberglass in the bad old days before I discovered Festool.  The only good thing was that all the dust on my face and body was a great excuse to take a Guiness break.

[attachimg=#1]   [attachimg=#2]

 

[Jimhart]

Prater,

I loaned my 150/3 to the friend whose stairs I redid.

He had an older pine kitchen table that needed to be refinished. He liked that sander so much that I think he darn near sanded the top off of that table.

Everybody who has seen it just raves that it's like a brand new table. There wasn't a spec of dust in that house when he was done.

Jim

 

[bruegf]

Prater,

I've done a number of boat bottoms, including one with blisters.  All were prior to discovering Festool, but I'd definitely go w/ a Rotex 150 and a Festool vac.  You won't see the difference between an ETS 150 and a Rotex 150 in random orbit mode by the time you get the barrier coat applied to the bottom.  You just don't need that fine of a finish and the rotex will speed up the heavy work considerably.

Fred

 

[Frank Pellow]

Prater,

I've done a number of boat bottoms, including one with blisters.   All were prior to discovering Festool, but I'd definitely go w/ a Rotex 150 and a Festool vac.   You won't see the difference between an ETS 150 and a Rotex 150 in random orbit mode by the time you get the barrier coat applied to the bottom.   You just don't need that fine of a finish and the rotex will speed up the heavy work considerably.

Fred

Right, I should have said that.  Get the Rotex 150 for the job!

 

[monte]

Roger,  I don't own any bow clamps (except a couple of crude, light duty, shop-made ones) but from watching the tutorial/infomercial at Bow Clamps official website, I thought when gluing veneer or panels face-to-face that one or more layers of MDF were recommended to assure the clamping load from the Bow Clamps was evenly distributed and fewer clamps needed.  Do you not agreed with that recommended practice?  Four MFT 1080s, you and Jerry Work must be in a conspiracy!!    ;D  Very nice work and demo of the utility of those MFTs and why many operations require lots of clamps of various types and sizes. 10 ft tall doors... hmmm... I'm waiting with much anticipation to see what you are making with those.

Dave R.

Dave, (................and Nick)

To your above query above, yes I agree with what you said, but in this case......... no.

Ok, ..........here's the long view explanation of why I used the bowclamps on the side and why I didn't use cauls (in the photo above with the generous use of bowclamps).

A. Upon further research into my photo files it wasn't Titebond that I used, and I wasn't gluing up beefed up plywood panels as I mentioned above.

(hey, at first glance I can't be expected to remember every little detail of every process by sheer memory.....that's why I have a mac & photo files!)

B. The actual project was a refacing of cabinets in a master bath with left over tin ceiling tiles from a prior (long ago) job.  (I save a lot)

C. The "adhesive" I used to adhere the tin sheets to the old door fronts was all purpose construction adhesive.

D. I used the door itself as a caul and sandwiched the tin between the mft top (with wax paper in-between)

E. The pressure needed was a "soft even squeeze".........thus the "side" use of the bowclamps.

(and yes in that case I could have used any sticks, but that worked for me at the time)

So yes this wasn't a classic use for bowclamps, but then we were talking about Steve getting more clamps at the time I first brought this up.

So a hyjacked thread here we go.............. :-\

ps. those 10 foot "doors" are actually parts for an 11 foot dining room table. (but thats for another thread at another time)

(Great boat project Frank.)

[attachimg=#]

cutting the tin ceiling tiles with the metal cutting blade.
(after the cuts the top surface of the tin is then sprayed with a primer)

[attachimg=#]

using construction adhesive to apply the ceiling tiles to the door fronts.
(the doors were presanded before to hmm, 100 grit)

[attachimg=#]

Above & below....... applying an even "soft squeeze" using the bowclamps in a "side position"
After the bond has cured (the next day) the "overextended tin edge" is then taken down safely with an
stationary edge belt sander. (because of the sparks generated the dust collection was turned off)

Note.. in the glue-up above I could have used a heavy caul with only the clamps, but I didn't want to cut
up a piece of mdf or heavy ply for that one glue up. Thus the generous use of bowclamps.
And yes, only one could have been used on the top where I used two.
(my feeling is Craig is not going to use this as a promo shot) ;D

[attachimg=#]

[attachimg=#]

At this stage I am applying silver leaf (composition silver) to the tops.
(after the clamping stage had cured the metal surfaces were painted with a latex flat paint
and then treated with a satin lacquer top coat prior to the silver application. After the application
of the siver leaf the tops are then coated with a final lacquer coat.
(if I talk about this treatment anymore I think it should then be moved into the projects area)

[attachimg=#]

Upon completion (complete with sun-glare)
(by the way, what you don't see closely are the edge treatments done with the BCTW's beading planes
over a solid walnut edging) .......another time, another thread, another place.

[attachimg=#]

Before.

cheers,
Roger

 

[nickao]

That sure was a cool little project there. Using the tin on the doors is a neat idea.

 

[Prater]

I just ordered the RO 150, Vacuum hose, and a promo pack of paper.

Thanks again to everyone involved.