Hidden fasteners for decking, which system do you like best?

fdengel said:
Just screw them in from the bottom...

;D

Mint idea Ill make sure all my decking is at least a foot from the ground so I can crawl underneath as I think bending down and twisting round to look up to screw is very uncomfortable.Ummmm but crawling under the decking doesn't sound very comfortable   umm maybe screwing from the bottom aint a mint idea [tongue]
 
jmbfestool said:
fdengel said:
Just screw them in from the bottom...

;D

Mint idea Ill make sure all my decking is at least a foot from the ground so I can crawl underneath as I think bending down and twisting round to look up to screw is very uncomfortable.Ummmm but crawling under the decking doesn't sound very comfortable   umm maybe screwing from the bottom aint a mint idea [tongue]

31jqpQB4ICL._SL500_AA300_.jpg
[big grin]
 
Brice Burrell said:
jmbfestool said:
fdengel said:
Just screw them in from the bottom...

;D

Mint idea Ill make sure all my decking is at least a foot from the ground so I can crawl underneath as I think bending down and twisting round to look up to screw is very uncomfortable.Ummmm but crawling under the decking doesn't sound very comfortable  umm maybe screwing from the bottom aint a mint idea [tongue]

31jqpQB4ICL._SL500_AA300_.jpg
[big grin]

Where does the tele mount?
 
Brice Burrell said:
jmbfestool said:
fdengel said:
Just screw them in from the bottom...

;D

Mint idea Ill make sure all my decking is at least a foot from the ground so I can crawl underneath as I think bending down and twisting round to look up to screw is very uncomfortable.Ummmm but crawling under the decking doesn't sound very comfortable   umm maybe screwing from the bottom aint a mint idea [tongue]

31jqpQB4ICL._SL500_AA300_.jpg
[big grin]

I like it I would prefer it in Green and have a gear drive on it do I can stick my T15 on it and it pulls me along saves me using my legs in really tight spaces.

 
richard.selwyn said:
So nobody has tried the domino deck fixings?
Richard

Cus they are slow expensive and really what benefits do they offer over the Tiger claws?  Plus they require a Domino which  lot of money also! lol

JMB
 
I have used the Domino deck system. What I did like about the system is the start and stop clips, they worked very well. The clips for the field held very well. They hold the deck planks off the joist slightly, promoting drying. Only using it once, it was slow. I do not think the speed would increase greatly with practice. Slotting is not an option as the thickness and depth of the clip will not allow it. This was a Knoolwood Construction job. The link is to his pictures.

I thought there were more pictures of the system, there are only a couple. This is the deck they were used on;
https://picasaweb.google.com/KnollwoodConstruction/CuthbertDeck

Tom
 
I started the deck, I don't really like the hidfast nail gun.  It works well if you were making a plain deck with no frills.  I still like face screwing the boards, its really secure and if anything happens to a deck board you can just swap it out.  I've been using the cortex screws and plugs on the deck also and really like them.  They are fast, only one but to drive the screw and make the hole.  Just bring a helper for all the plugs..

I will see if I can get some pics, I was just there for today while I'm waiting for my trim to arrive for another job.
 
tjbnwi said:
I have used the Domino deck system. What I did like about the system is the start and stop clips, they worked very well. The clips for the field held very well. They hold the deck planks off the joist slightly, promoting drying. Only using it once, it was slow. I do not think the speed would increase greatly with practice. Slotting is not an option as the thickness and depth of the clip will not allow it.

I thought there were more pictures of the system, there are only a couple. This is the deck they were used on;
https://picasaweb.google.com/KnollwoodConstruction/CuthbertDeck

Tom

I thought they were not available yet in NA?  Where did you get them?  I'm about to build a deck and would really like to use them myself.  How did the cost compare to Tiger-Claw?

I really like that about how they allow the board to stand away from the joist for better drying.  That's a big plus imo.

I have also never seen what you seemed to use for your piers.  Do you have a link you can share for that product?

Thanks in advance Tom!
 
Kevin D. said:
I thought they were not available yet in NA?  Where did you get them?....

Here's the caption from one of Tom's pictures showing the Festool deck system.
Festool hidden deck fastener system end board connector fastened to ridge board. This hidden fastener system was donated by Festool for our evaluation on a small portion of this deck project.
 
Kevin,

Here is a link to the Redi Footings that were used on the deck. Once you use these you will not go back to concrete unless absolutely necessary. They are faster, lighter, produce less spoilage and are very strong.

http://redifooting.com/

On this deck the Redi Footings would not work because the exposed posts are true 6x6 cedar with every intersecting piece being let in. The piers on this one are 20", 16" and 12". Under the hot tub are 9 16" sono tubes with 6x6 treated posts with let in 2x12's beams, 2x10 joist 12" on center to support the sub deck and 7800 pound hot tub load. I did the deck and hard scape, the landscaping was by others;

https://picasaweb.google.com/tbadernwi/ChesterSpringsDeck#

You can also look into these as you are in Canada, I have not used them, yet, I do know an installer, just not in my area;

http://www.technometalpost.com/en/home/

Thanks Brice, I guess I should stop by more often. As he pointed out, they were sent to us to try. To the best of my knowledge they are not available here. Also the caption should read "rim" not "ridge".

What are you using for the decking surface and rail system. I may be able to point you in the right direction on the best and most efficient fastener to use. I had made a few suggestions earlier. Again the most important part of doing a deck is planeing the joists. It prevents squeaks with a hidden fastener system.  

The comment was made, "it is only a deck" as you can see (hopefully it is evident) to me it is finish work. It must be some of your finest finish work as it shows every aspect of your skills, from planning, design, layout, framing, stair building, rail building and finish. Any flaw will be glaring. It can be said that wood moves, joints open. That is true, the better the start the less these changes are evident. Pillow joints help solve the open joint, they make it look like you planned it.

I have been back to see all of the decks I have shown in the last year, except the one linked in this post. The all look as good as the day I finished them. The one linked above is in Chester Springs, Pennsylvania, about 800 miles from my home. When I built it I did not take pictures of the job. They owners were moving so I asked them to send me some pictures. In the pictures above the deck and hardscape is just over 4 years in service. Since their move to Atlanta I have done their Master Bath freshened up their Powder Room and will be going this fall to do a deck for their new home. First of next year I will be doing their kitchen, I did their kitchen in Chester Springs about 9 months before the move. All these jobs are in my Picasa gallery.

Tom

 
I’ve been meaning to get back to this thread for some time.  First I’d like to thank everyone that offered advice. [thumbs up]  We ended up using Trex pre-grooved decking with Tiger Claw hidden fasteners made specifically for this decking.  Both the Tiger Claw clips and the screws are stainless steel.  The screw heads and the clips have a black coating to help hide them.  I know Markus didn’t like the screws, I didn’t have any trouble with them.  

Overall the decking went down pretty fast and without much trouble.  Even after bringing the framing up to code I was a little worried how flat the framing would be since there were several additions to the deck over the years.  Only one spot needed a small amount of shaving with the planer.  We used a boarder (decking without grooves) to hide the ends of the grooved decking.  Getting started with the boarder was the hardest part since the front was broken up by a tree.  We used color matched screws since there wasn’t a Cortex screw for our decking.  After that everything went well for our first time using this system.  The deck was about 200 sq ft, two of us got it done in a day.  I think the bowrench Darcy mentioned might have helped to speed things up.

This is first time I’ve used any hidden fastener system so I can’t compare the Tiger Claw to other systems.  That said, I didn’t find it to be time consuming, or harder that face screwing.  In fact, the TC system would likely have been faster than face screwing.

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As for the project as a whole, it was fun but there was delay after delay.   Some of the delays were our fault, most were not.  The first major hurdle was figuring out the Vergola system.  Imagine an overhead venetian blind type structure in place of a pergola.  As it turns out there aren’t many of these in the States, in fact the nearest one is in New Jersey.  The company that doesn’t the east coast sales and installations is out Connecticut, and they knew very little about the product.  After a day on the phone we finally knew what size the finished openings of the Vergola sections needed to be and a pretty good guess what type of wire we needed  and where the it had to go.  Yes, we were guessing (albeit and educated one) on a $40,000 deck project.  It gets better.  The house is a duplex, each half is owned independently.  Both sides have decks that butt up to one another (separated but a poorly attached fence when we got to the job).  The guy next door was selling his place so he had a survey done to establish the property line.  Well he didn’t bother to tell our client that his deck was a foot over the line onto our client’s property.  Not a big problem except we needed to build proper privacy fence and there simply was room to get fence posts between the decks.  After some careful negotiation we came to an agreement we’d remove offending framing and decking to do the work needed for the fence.  If only it was that simple….

After removing some of the decking it was abundantly clear it wasn’t going to be as simple as were hoping.  This guy’s deck was falling apart because it was so poorly build.  The ledger board was falling off the house, 2x6x12’ joists were spaced 30” and I’m not kidding, they weren’t even attached on one end! [scared]  How this thing didn’t collapse is beyond me.  We gave the guy a bid to rebuild his deck right but he wasn’t interested.  We couldn’t touch it if it wasn’t going to meet code, so we were stopped dead in our tracks again.  

After some more careful negotiation the guy had his landscaper move the framing out our way.  Great, we were moving forward again, at least for a little while.  We stood up 6x8 posts for the framing for the Vergola and installed the decking.  But we had to wait for the Simpson brackets to continue with the upper framing.  So we left the job for a week, sadly this wasn’t the only time we had to leave the job because of scheduling conflicts.  I’m glad all jobs don’t put up a fight like this one and thank goodness the client is super mellow!  

Okay, enough of the sob story, we finished our end early last week.  The Vergola system will be installed later this month.

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We used a Trex railing, it was super easy to install but it does look a little plasticy.

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Here's a shot of the upper framing for the Vergola, parallam wrapped in Azek trimmed with staff molding.

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Molding around the tops of the post, Azek rake molding.

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There are lights everywhere, I used the MFS and 1400 to make quick work of cutting out for the boxes in the Azek.

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Here's one of the light in place in a riser board on the stairs.

I’ll try to get back to take some pictures of the finished project.  Again, thanks for the advice guys (especially Tom!) [thumbs up]

   
 
$40K for a 200 sq.ft. deck for 1/2 a house?

Shouldn't this be part of that thread of Peter's, "There's GOLD in them there thistles"?  [tongue]
 
Ken Nagrod said:
$40K for a 200 sq.ft. deck for 1/2 a house?

Shouldn't this be part of that thread of Peter's, "There's GOLD in them there thistles"?  [tongue]

"Their's not to reason why,
Their's but to do and die:"

"Their's" in this case is (as JMB would say) me and mate. [big grin]  Beside, 40k isn't much to this client.
 
Brice,

Sorry to read of the delays.

The work that you have done looks very nice. I like the details on the support columns.

Something to consider when using a hidden fastener system that does not mechanically fix to the joist and planks. When rail posts are installed to the rim joists, with a screwed/nailed plank install, the deck planks help to tie the rim boards to the joists. This helps distribute the load on the rail through the floor envelope. When using some hidden fastener system you lose some if not all the load transfer to the joists. The clips slide in so they can easily slide out. That said you need to make certain that the rail post connections and how the system is tied together is addressed. I know Simpson markets a bracket for this purpose. In some ares it is required to use the bracket. Another item lost when using some hidden fastener systems is rotational load resistance. Because the fasteners are not mechanically attached to both members the structure may rack more easily.  

The photos in my Picasa album labeled "Two Tone deck" are of a deck that replaced one that was build equally as bad as the neighbors you described. I removed the planks from the framing, the joists were never nailed to the beam. I picked up the rim end of the deck and the ledger fell off the house and the beam collapsed. The post were just set on a few inches of concrete, the ledger nailed to the house with 3 1/2" nails................ through the vinyl siding. Sure made the demo easy.

I do not think 40k for what you are doing is out of line. Chuck and I just finished an outdoor space the was a little over $350k.

You're welcome,

Tom
 
tjbnwi said:
Brice,

......Something to consider when using a hidden fastener system that does not mechanically fix to the joist and planks. When rail posts are installed to the rim joists, with a screwed/nailed plank install, the deck planks help to tie the rim boards to the joists. This helps distribute the load on the rail through the floor envelope. When using some hidden fastener system you lose some if not all the load transfer to the joists. The clips slide in so they can easily slide out. That said you need to make certain that the rail post connections and how the system is tied together is addressed. I know Simpson markets a bracket for this purpose. In some ares it is required to use the bracket. Another item lost when using some hidden fastener systems is rotational load resistance. Because the fasteners are not mechanically attached to both members the structure may rack more easily......  

Tom, I hadn't considered that but it makes perfect sense.  We use Simpson angle brackets on all our rim joists so that will give some mechanical reinforcement to the joints in question.  I'm not sure if that's the same bracket you were referring to.  As always you'll full of good info, thanks!   
 
tjbnwi said:
Brice,

Sorry to read of the delays.

The work that you have done looks very nice. I like the details on the support columns.

Something to consider when using a hidden fastener system that does not mechanically fix to the joist and planks. When rail posts are installed to the rim joists, with a screwed/nailed plank install, the deck planks help to tie the rim boards to the joists. This helps distribute the load on the rail through the floor envelope. When using some hidden fastener system you lose some if not all the load transfer to the joists. The clips slide in so they can easily slide out. That said you need to make certain that the rail post connections and how the system is tied together is addressed. I know Simpson markets a bracket for this purpose. In some ares it is required to use the bracket. Another item lost when using some hidden fastener systems is rotational load resistance. Because the fasteners are not mechanically attached to both members the structure may rack more easily.  

The photos in my Picasa album labeled "Two Tone deck" are of a deck that replaced one that was build equally as bad as the neighbors you described. I removed the planks from the framing, the joists were never nailed to the beam. I picked up the rim end of the deck and the ledger fell off the house and the beam collapsed. The post were just set on a few inches of concrete, the ledger nailed to the house with 3 1/2" nails................ through the vinyl siding. Sure made the demo easy.

I do not think 40k for what you are doing is out of line. Chuck and I just finished an outdoor space the was a little over $350k.

You're welcome,

Tom

The price is meaningless as a comparison to Brice's deck job without full details of what made your job that high amount.  What I'm getting at is what does your $350,000 outdoor space have to do with Brice's $40,000 deck job?  I could see comparing two deck jobs that were around the same specs and price, but just throwing out that number doesn't tell me why someone would pay you the price of a house to do up their backyard and how that adds credence to his deck job price.
 
With the pictures Brice posted and the square footage, I know I could write the specs for the job they did, I'm pretty sure you could also. With the pictures it is probably easier than off a print. Simple math puts it at $200.00 per square foot. That is all most people want to know. That price did not include a new frame, or as written include pier/post work.

My putting the cost there is in response your comment about the cost of this job. As Brice said, all that matters is what the customer wants to or is willing to pay. They may not see the value as only in the money. Value is why I have paid a premium for the Festool line.

Simple break down of the job I mentioned- Total square footage of area built upon, 640- screened porch with outdoor kitchen-320 square feet, hardscape area with outdoor fireplace, and stone counter surfaces on laid up stone -320 square feet-30 linear feet of cedar fence replaced- grade and sod balance of yard-1600 square feet. As you can figure it was only $156.25, per square foot for the home owner to have this done. (If you want a more accurate cost of construction the yard work was about $3000.00)

Tom

 
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