High Quality Chisels

Kev said:
I was under the impression the larger Tormek's circumference was sufficient to make the rounding issue unimportant ... but I do not know from personal experience.

Generally speaking yes, however as the stone looses diameter (sharpening and tuning) you could get more of a hollow ground than a new one would give you, but I don't know why that's such a big deal if you are putting a micro bevel or secondary bevel on your chisels.

Tim
 
With regards to hollow ground chisels.

I have spent quite a few hours talking to Trent Powrie from Harold and Saxon chisels.
He explained to me the benefits of a hollow ground chisel. As every one of his chisels are hollow ground. The reason being very simple.
When it comes to sharpening with a diamond stone or Japanese stone, you have less sharpening to do because of the slight hollow in each chisel.

It does not affect the performance of the chisel in any shape or form.
I had my doubts when I first saw his chisels, as I was always taught not to hollow grind chisels.
But I have owned and used Harold and Saxon chisels for 2 years now and I cannot find fault with hollow ground chisels at all.
I am happy to state that Trent has converted me to his way of thinking.

Justin.

 
I have a Blue Spruce mallet and it is incredibly durable and also a thing of beauty.

In general, (Japanese) chisels with steel hoops are meant to be struck with a steel hammer and (all) chisels without hoops should be struck with a mallet such as the Blue Spruce.  Of course paring chisels shouldn't be struck with anything.
 
The mallet is on my wish list, but I am baulking at the shipping cost at the moment. $25 for an $85 mallet is too much for me to stomach.

Ron, did you get the 16oz. or the 14oz?
 
Richard Leon said:
The mallet is on my wish list, but I am baulking at the shipping cost at the moment. $25 for an $85 mallet is too much for me to stomach.

Ron, did you get the 16oz. or the 14oz?

I can't remember what mine cost to ship to Oakville. Was that ($25)the USPS cost?
Tim
 
Richard Leon said:
The mallet is on my wish list, but I am baulking at the shipping cost at the moment. $25 for an $85 mallet is too much for me to stomach.

Ron, did you get the 16oz. or the 14oz?

I went with the smaller of the two mallets & it seems about right for most work with sharp chisels.  I don't do mortising with a chisel but the larger one might be a better choice if that was the intended (primary) use.
 
RonWen said:
I have a Blue Spruce mallet and it is incredibly durable and also a thing of beauty.

In general, (Japanese) chisels with steel hoops are meant to be struck with a steel hammer and (all) chisels without hoops should be struck with a mallet such as the Blue Spruce.  Of course paring chisels shouldn't be struck with anything.

What about a framing hammer when does that come in?  [tongue]  apparently thats what I use and I dont know how to sharpen chisels lol

JMB
 
Tim Raleigh said:
Richard Leon said:
The mallet is on my wish list, but I am baulking at the shipping cost at the moment. $25 for an $85 mallet is too much for me to stomach.

Ron, did you get the 16oz. or the 14oz?

I can't remember what mine cost to ship to Oakville. Was that ($25)the USPS cost?
Tim

I don't recall if Blue Spruce only uses UPS or not (costly into Canada) but I think for USPS Priority mail the cost should be around $13. -- I could be wrong, I was wrong one other time...  [big grin]
 
jmbfestool said:
RonWen said:
I have a Blue Spruce mallet and it is incredibly durable and also a thing of beauty.

In general, (Japanese) chisels with steel hoops are meant to be struck with a steel hammer and (all) chisels without hoops should be struck with a mallet such as the Blue Spruce.  Of course paring chisels shouldn't be struck with anything.

What about a framing hammer when does that come in?   [tongue]  apparently thats what I use and I dont know how to sharpen chisels lol


JMB

The framing hammer is for when you don't care which end of the chisel you are using...  [big grin]
 
Deansocial said:
j123j said:
jmbfestool said:
Vindingo said:
jmbfestool said:
Cus thats what I do?!?!? I like buying nice stuff lol

I have had my chisels for about 6 years now! Its just that I have been little bit unlucky and lost two recently.   Mainly because I dont care about them really I suppose.  The new ones ill look after a lot more and im going to give them a nice home!  My current ones just get dumped in my bag with all my tools with no protection.  Same thing happend with my old block plane I never cared about that one and it just got thrown about but My lie-nielsen I look after that always gets put back in its pouch and hung up in my tool bag to keep it safe.  If im not happy with a tool I just loose respect for it I suppose and so if it gets broken or lost I dont really care.

JMB

Fair enough... since it is your money, I vote for the H&S Ultimax Range  They look badass!

Ultimax-Chisels-Copy.jpg


Unfortunately, the Ultimax range looks really slick, but it doesn't look like they are in production at the moment.    

They do look nice and sexy did look at them just don't look hammer friendly.  Hence why I like the contractors version.

Jmb

If you tend to use a framing hammer to drive chisels buy some bahco chisels, they're cheap and will take a beating.

If you're gonna buy highend chisels... use a mallet to drive them and learn how to properly sharpen them. I doubt you have the patience for really learn how to properly sharpen them.

If you dont have the intention to really get to know your chisels you shouldent spend more than 20€/piece....

the harold&saxon are about...what 150€/piece with the customs charges and shipping overseas?

who said anything about using a framing hammer? Just because he uses a hammer it doesnt mean he doesnt know how to look after a chisel or know how to sharpen it.

Oh FYI japanese chisels are hit using a ... hammer just so you know

Just so you know/FYI the japanese hammers that are struck with a hammer have a hoop so they wont mushroom or split. Most of the western chisels shown here arent hoop'd (bluespruce,lienielsen...) And if you use a hammer on them...well lets just say they wont last too long.

A chisel that costs around 100$ is just as good as a 15$ chisel if its not properly sharpened.

Honing a blade properly takes skill and learning how to properly hone takes time and patience.
Imo a few strokes on a coarse/fine diamondstone doesnt do fine chisels justice.
 
It's USPS into Canada. I am in Florida at the moment but not for long enough to wait for it to arrive.

Incidentally it's free shipping time at lee valley until the new year.

Mua ha ha!
 
Tim Raleigh said:
Yep his tools are very nice. The acrylic infused mallet is a beauty.

I also have a mallet and a set of Dave Jeske's (Blue Spuce) chisels, he is a fine toolmaker. And the acrylic infusion makes the tools incredibly tough.
 
jmbfestool said:
apparently thats what I use and I dont know how to sharpen chisels lol

You're just a stubborn Dutchman [tongue]. Being half Dutch I think its an advantage....
Tim
 
RonWen said:
In general, (Japanese) chisels with steel hoops are meant to be struck with a steel hammer and (all) chisels without hoops should be struck with a mallet such as the Blue Spruce.  Of course paring chisels shouldn't be struck with anything.

Speaking of high quality and Japanese paring chisels, I have to mention that my chisels made by Akio Tasai are the best I've ever owned. Not that pretty to look at, but the dimensions and balance are just about perfect. The blue steel tips on Japanese chisels really hold an edge, but tend to be a little brittle and will chip. Although that's so much of a problem with the paring chisels.

tasai_shinogi_usu_nomi_chisel_set.jpg
 
Richard Leon said:
It's USPS into Canada. I am in Florida at the moment but not for long enough to wait for it to arrive.

Incidentally it's free shipping time at lee valley until the new year.

Mua ha ha!

Unfortunately for my bank account I am close enough to the Burlington store to pick up...but I did get a gift card from my sister so that should help... spend even more money there.  [big grin]
Tim
 
joraft said:
RonWen said:
In general, (Japanese) chisels with steel hoops are meant to be struck with a steel hammer and (all) chisels without hoops should be struck with a mallet such as the Blue Spruce.  Of course paring chisels shouldn't be struck with anything.

Speaking of high quality and Japanese paring chisels, I have to mention that my chisels made by Akio Tasai are the best I've ever owned. Not that pretty to look at, but the dimensions and balance are just about perfect. The blue steel tips on Japanese chisels really hold an edge, but tend to be a little brittle and will chip. Although that's so much of a problem with the paring chisels.

John, Did you get it (them) from Stu?  I would like to get a pretty fair set of Japanese chisels although I can get lost pretty quickly on his website:   http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/   ---  I should probably contact him for a bit of advice.
 
j123j said:
Deansocial said:
j123j said:
jmbfestool said:
Vindingo said:
jmbfestool said:
Cus thats what I do?!?!? I like buying nice stuff lol

I have had my chisels for about 6 years now! Its just that I have been little bit unlucky and lost two recently.   Mainly because I dont care about them really I suppose.  The new ones ill look after a lot more and im going to give them a nice home!  My current ones just get dumped in my bag with all my tools with no protection.  Same thing happend with my old block plane I never cared about that one and it just got thrown about but My lie-nielsen I look after that always gets put back in its pouch and hung up in my tool bag to keep it safe.  If im not happy with a tool I just loose respect for it I suppose and so if it gets broken or lost I dont really care.

JMB

Fair enough... since it is your money, I vote for the H&S Ultimax Range  They look badass!

Ultimax-Chisels-Copy.jpg


Unfortunately, the Ultimax range looks really slick, but it doesn't look like they are in production at the moment.    

They do look nice and sexy did look at them just don't look hammer friendly.  Hence why I like the contractors version.

Jmb

If you tend to use a framing hammer to drive chisels buy some bahco chisels, they're cheap and will take a beating.

If you're gonna buy highend chisels... use a mallet to drive them and learn how to properly sharpen them. I doubt you have the patience for really learn how to properly sharpen them.

If you dont have the intention to really get to know your chisels you shouldent spend more than 20€/piece....

the harold&saxon are about...what 150€/piece with the customs charges and shipping overseas?

who said anything about using a framing hammer? Just because he uses a hammer it doesnt mean he doesnt know how to look after a chisel or know how to sharpen it.

Oh FYI japanese chisels are hit using a ... hammer just so you know

Just so you know/FYI the japanese hammers that are struck with a hammer have a hoop so they wont mushroom or split. Most of the western chisels shown here arent hoop'd (bluespruce,lienielsen...) And if you use a hammer on them...well lets just say they wont last too long.

A chisel that costs around 100$ is just as good as a 15$ chisel if its not properly sharpened.

Honing a blade properly takes skill and learning how to properly hone takes time and patience.
Imo a few strokes on a coarse/fine diamondstone doesnt do fine chisels justice.

like the 4 type of chisel jmb linked to.  a few stoke on a diamond stone and some polishing compound is all that is needed if you look after your tools, if they need more they needed sharpening long before then
 
Back
Top