ChuckS said:
Packard said:
Snip
It is best to get a “Pozi” screw driver. It will save the screw heads from damage.
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Shouldn't it be the other way round? My cabinet installer friend told me I could use my regular Phillips screwdriver on my Blum hinges with no worries.
https://bsfixings.uk/blog/the-difference-between-phillips-and-pozi-screw-heads/
Definitely not. Pozi-Driv screws are best driven with the correct driver (or a JIS, which almost no one has) Phillips is the worst choice....even for Phillips screws. They are literally intended to cam-out. It was a feature (at the time) not a bug, as it is now. This is exactly why drywall installers use them. With a correctly adjusted driver, they cam out (stop driving) at exactly the right depth. It does wear them out prematurely though, which is why the big box stores sell the driver tips in packs of 10.
As to the original adjustments. Someone has done you quite the dis-service. Those hinges are intended to have vertical adjustment via the slot in the mounting plate on the cabinet side. For whatever reason, they have driven a second screw into the same slot, blocking any movement. (I suspect the original were overdriven/stripped and the second reinforced it)
The other directions are controlled by the screws, on the arm that attaches to the door part.
The one closest to the front will pivot the door left to right. The one in the back moves the door in/out.
What I see in your pic is going to be a compromise, at best. The bottom of the wooden door needs to move to the left, to make the bottom parallel to the trim, but that will affect the gap to the metal door.
From this angle, that gap is already tapered, so it will get worse. At that point, adjustment will be needed there too.
With out seeing it with the doors removed, I would guess that the main boxes are not aligned properly, making all of this difficult.