Hints to drill holes without LR 32

[Mike35x95x1]

Hi, I am planning to build SYS-AZ cabinet but do not have the LR-32 set. I do have OF-1100 + FS + HW-S8-D5.

Do you have any hint how to be accurate as much as possible without the drilling set?

Thanks
Michal

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[six-point socket II]

Hi,

while it's not as quick, you can easily do this with a drill and a 5mm drill bit with centering tip and depth stop. (I'm very attached to the Festool BTA HW D 5 CE, but the truth is, any 5mm drill bit with centering tip and depth stop will do.)

Then all you need is a square/t-square and a compass.

Take a look here, starts with the second picture.:https://www.festoolownersgroup.com/home-improvement-other-projects/'quick-and-dirty'-basement-door-repair/msg499932/#msg499932

I drilled 240 holes that way for a custom sys-port. Not economic for large scale production, but if it's just one cabinet. Do able.

And I guess, quicker than adjusting a router every time anew by hand/ without positive stop, that the LR 32 would provide.

Just my opinion of course.

Kind regards,
Oliver

 

[nclemmons]

Check this out.  Very fast, simple and accurate enough for most applications...
https://www.fastcap.com/product/layout-tape-system

 

[dltflt]

You can try This shelf jig . I used that for years before I got the LR32.

 

[mkasdin]

Woodpecker has a template for 32mm. But if you call them they will tell you it’s more of a guide then a precision jig

 

[Mike35x95x1]

First, thanks to all. It is a great community.[emoji106]

I was aware of the drill way. I wondered if somebody has a trick with the OF-1100.

However, I have in mind my homemade jig, so if this would be a success, I will post it here.

P.S. I am writing from Europe, so not all the jig suggestions are feasible, unfortunately.

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[AlexThePalex]

I know I am probably still living in the dark ages, but I always get perfectly fine results with a tape measure, ruler and T-square.

 

[Mike35x95x1]

I know I am probably still living in the dark ages, but I always get perfectly fine results with a tape measure, ruler and T-square.

Don’t take me wrong. Your way can be finally the best. I just want to try to use the router. [emoji6]

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[Mark Katz]

I use this Kreg Jig which works pretty well. In fact, I also bought the 1/4" version which is the same except for the drill bit. That way, I can join the two together to drill 12 holes at a time without having to move the jig. The piece that joins them together comes with both jigs and I can use the joined jigs with either drill bit. I've probably drilled a few thousand holes with this setup.

I don't know if it is available in Europe.

 

[AlexThePalex]

I know I am probably still living in the dark ages, but I always get perfectly fine results with a tape measure, ruler and T-square.

Don’t take me wrong. Your way can be finally the best. I just want to try to use the router. [emoji6]

Well, if you have to, I don't see why you could not.

But using a drill bit with a depth stop is going to be a lot faster.

 

[Svar]

I like this one:


Not necessarily the execution, but the principle - a notched guide and a mating tool base. Minimum parts and least amount of movements by the user. Mafell takes the same approach. I think LR32 is to fiddly by comparison.
If you want to use drill, get a piece of melamine from hardware store with 5mm shelving holes already drilled in it and use that as template. I don't know where you are, but in US those are easily available in various length. Or you can use the same store bought pre-drilled melamine to make the jig from the video.

 

[Mike35x95x1]

I like this one:


Not necessarily the execution, but the principle - a notched guide and a mating tool base. Minimum parts and least amount of movements by the user. Mafell takes the same approach. I think LR32 is to fiddly by comparison.
If you want to use drill, get a piece of melamine from hardware store with 5mm shelving holes already drilled in it and use that as template. I don't know where you are, but in US those are easily available in various length. Or you can use the same store bought pre-drilled melamine to make the jig from the video.

Quite interesting! Thank you for sharing.

Festool DIYer from Europe

 

[Mike35x95x1]

I use this Kreg Jig which works pretty well. In fact, I also bought the 1/4" version which is the same except for the drill bit. That way, I can join the two together to drill 12 holes at a time without having to move the jig. The piece that joins them together comes with both jigs and I can use the joined jigs with either drill bit. I've probably drilled a few thousand holes with this setup.

I don't know if it is available in Europe.

It’s just arrived. [emoji846] Luckily it was available in Europe too. Thanks for the recommendation.

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[Mark Katz]

It’s just arrived. [emoji846] Luckily it was available in Europe too. Thanks for the recommendation.

Excellent! Let us know how it works out.

 

[pixelated]

The fence on the Kreg jig for the hole setback from the edge doesn't match the Sys AZ specification, so a little measuring is needed to position the jig. Once you've drilled a couple of holes, it's not a problem. Just make sure everything is straight as you go along.

My Sys AZ cabinet has quite a number of extra holes that were learning experiences. Happily, most of them aren't visible. [wink]

 

[Mike35x95x1]

The fence on the Kreg jig for the hole setback from the edge doesn't match the Sys AZ specification, so a little measuring is needed to position the jig. Once you've drilled a couple of holes, it's not a problem. Just make sure everything is straight as you go along.

My Sys AZ cabinet has quite a number of extra holes that were learning experiences. Happily, most of them aren't visible. [wink]

Thanks for letting me know. Will share the result for sure.

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[Mike35x95x1]

The fence on the Kreg jig for the hole setback from the edge doesn't match the Sys AZ specification, so a little measuring is needed to position the jig. Once you've drilled a couple of holes, it's not a problem. Just make sure everything is straight as you go along.

My Sys AZ cabinet has quite a number of extra holes that were learning experiences. Happily, most of them aren't visible. [wink]

I did it... [emoji846]
https://festoolownersgroup.com/index.php?topic=64483

DIYer from Europe (TS55, KS60, DF500, OF1010, FS1400, FS-WA/90, FS-PA-VL)

 

[xedos]

Not router based, but it's cheap, fast, and easy for a one off project:
https://www.fastcap.com/product/layout-tape-system

 

[woodferret]

The fence on the Kreg jig for the hole setback from the edge doesn't match the Sys AZ specification, so a little measuring is needed to position the jig. Once you've drilled a couple of holes, it's not a problem. Just make sure everything is straight as you go along.

My Sys AZ cabinet has quite a number of extra holes that were learning experiences. Happily, most of them aren't visible. [wink]

I like Mike35x95x1's solution the best, but if anyone is ever stuck with the Kreg jig, the far edge is at 66mm so reverse their included fence with a mod fence as per (below vid) and add a 8mm packer.  That'll bring the auxiliary fence to 58mm as spec'd - if you're not inclined to have to measure every time.  It's already a useful mod to get the 37mm on the closer edge.

 

[gvega9889@gmail.com]

I've used the Woodriver shelf pin jig for over 10 yrs and it has functioned without any problems.  It has screw-in pins to locate distance from both the edge and bottom.  The jig Is reversible to drill the second row of holes.  32mm jig is $24 and centering drill with stop is about $20.