Roachmill
Member
- Joined
- Jun 11, 2015
- Messages
- 325
I have an HK85 en route and I'm wondering about the practicality of the grooving unit; not for construction work where a few mm here or there is fine but I'm wondering how it would work like a dado stack on a table saw for things like cabinets. I'm in the UK where such things aren't at all common... and I don't have a table saw, so I'm all ears.
With my experience of blade Vs track splinter strip offsets varying due to different kerfs, does the grooving unit share the same offset as the stock 85 blade? I already have 2 sets of tracks for the TS 55 and 75 because of this (and an HKC which is more offset than either of those). So, were the grooving unit another offset to handle, it'd not be all that quick to align for precise dados.
From the videos I've seen, it appears to leave a pretty sharp and crisp edge on the face of whatever it's ploughed its way through. Here I'm wondering whether it's up to shelf housings and rebates (rabbets) in ply / MDF. I have a sneaky feeling this isn't the type of work it's designed for!
It wouldn't have anywhere near the precision for setting depth of cut as a router, which could be a bit of a problem but not insurmountable. Possibly. Any tips on precisely setting the depth of cut?
As I said, I'm looking at it for purposes it's not intended for. But any input from anyone with experience of using it would be appreciated either way.
With my experience of blade Vs track splinter strip offsets varying due to different kerfs, does the grooving unit share the same offset as the stock 85 blade? I already have 2 sets of tracks for the TS 55 and 75 because of this (and an HKC which is more offset than either of those). So, were the grooving unit another offset to handle, it'd not be all that quick to align for precise dados.
From the videos I've seen, it appears to leave a pretty sharp and crisp edge on the face of whatever it's ploughed its way through. Here I'm wondering whether it's up to shelf housings and rebates (rabbets) in ply / MDF. I have a sneaky feeling this isn't the type of work it's designed for!
It wouldn't have anywhere near the precision for setting depth of cut as a router, which could be a bit of a problem but not insurmountable. Possibly. Any tips on precisely setting the depth of cut?
As I said, I'm looking at it for purposes it's not intended for. But any input from anyone with experience of using it would be appreciated either way.