HK85 vs TS 75 vs (Mafell) KSS80 for ripping timbers

[slowtah]

Well, there is some existing threads concerning the comparison between HK85 and TS75 (e.g.  TS75 vs HK85 in festtolownersgroup forum), but none concerning the specific use of these tools for ripping timbers.

For some reasons that I won't explain here, I DON'T have a "big" table saw (only a small one = CMS with TS55) and no band saw. Also, I DON'T have access to big ones. I am on my own. I need a rather big portable saw for ripping timbers directly at the lumber mill. In fact, the pieces of wood I am lurking on are available on a mill that will not rip the timbers for me (I'm living in a small country in Europe where this IS the case, I don't live in North America).

I want to target timbers with 60-75 mm of thickness (2"1/4 -> 3") or slightly more, and use a circular saw with a rail guide for ripping them directly on the mill site.

The deeper cut of the HK85 is attractive when compared to TS75. It also supports FSK rails unlike the TS75 but cannot be installed in CMS system. Since I got all accessories for the CMS system, and since the cost of the adapter board for the TS75 is not (hum hum) so expensive, the TS75 seems attractive. But the HK85 can directly cut rabbets (rebates) and I have heard a lot of good things concerning the Mafell KSS80 which is the original design that Festool copied for launching the HK85. So, I am in trouble and got few questions to festool owners:

1) can the HK85 be used (occasionally) for cutting stacked sheet goods on a MFT/3 using a rail guide (like with my TS55), and yielding a "rather" similar/good quality of cut when compared to the TS75? Or is this apples vs pears = the quality of cuts is not good enough for sheet goods?

2) is the HK85 any "good" compared to Mafell KSS80? I know that asking this question on a Festool forum will result in biased answers but... Since Festool has copied Mafell saw and its cross-cut guide (with some improvements?!?), the HK85 seems a good (and cheaper) contender.

3) has someone in this forum some experiments for ripping timbers with both HK85 and TS75?

The HK85 is pretty new and I can't find any good unbiased comparison on the net.

 

[Kev]

To be fair, stick a similar blade in a TS or a HK and you'll get a similar cut .. DC will be a difference and the TS is more as home plunging on a track.

The HK has the obvious advantage on being FSK track friendly and supporting the grooving unit. The TS has a home in the CMS.

My solution is to have both as I see their benefits to specific needs .. if you just want to do right angle rips down a rail, the HK would be fine.

I can't comment on the Mafell.

 

[PreferrablyWood]

When you already have a CMS, then I'd vote for the TS 75 as then you get more depth for further working your timbers on the CMS. I don't understand the need for the speciel FSK guide rails, as were talking about ripping timbers, the FSK guide rails are meant for crosscuts. For ripping you'd be needing the FS/2 1900mm a least.. Cutting things down to size you can always do that with a cordless jigsaw for example

If on the other hand you need the addition 15mm depth for rips then the HK85 is the one to get.

 

[slowtah]

as were talking about ripping timbers, the FSK guide rails are meant for crosscuts. For ripping you'd be needing the FS/2 1900mm a least.. Cutting things down to size you can always do that with a cordless jigsaw for example

The FSK will be extremely useful for crosscutting the timbers. I have not tested the FSK rail and I DO hope the 90 degree cut is pretty accurate. I could use a jigsaw but according to my experiences the cuts are not always straight and 90 degree accurate, especially when using a jigsaw on a rail + deep cuts. Festool recommends max 20mm or 30mm of wood thickness (roughly 3/4" -> 1"1/4 thickness - I don't remember precisely) for ensuring accuracy. I got some bad results sometimes... I could also use a jigsaw with a rail and a long blade for ripping but I want to set a straight direct reference cut for upcoming cuts (= downsizing).

[member=13058]Kev[/member] 

My solution is to have both as I see their benefits to specific needs .

I am more and more leaning toward buying the HK85, and _eventually_ _maybe_ _we'll see later__ also buy the TS75...
This way I solve my current problem (ripping/cutting timbers) and I can also use this saw for some other tasks, like cutting sheet goods, but with some hassle.

Thanks for your comments.

 

[PreferrablyWood]

as were talking about ripping timbers, the FSK guide rails are meant for crosscuts. For ripping you'd be needing the FS/2 1900mm a least.. Cutting things down to size you can always do that with a cordless jigsaw for example

The FSK will be extremely useful for crosscutting the timbers. I have not tested the FSK rail and I DO hope the 90 degree cut is pretty accurate. I could use a jigsaw but according to my experiences the cuts are not always straight and 90 degree accurate, especially when using a jigsaw on a rail + deep cuts. Festool recommends max 20mm or 30mm of wood thickness (roughly 3/4" -> 1"1/4 thickness - I don't remember precisely) for ensuring accuracy. I got some bad results sometimes... I could also use a jigsaw with a rail and a long blade for ripping but I want to set a straight direct reference cut for upcoming cuts (= downsizing).

[member=13058]Kev[/member] 

My solution is to have both as I see their benefits to specific needs .

I am more and more leaning toward buying the HK85, and _eventually_ _maybe_ _we'll see later__ also buy the TS75...
This way I solve my current problem (ripping/cutting timbers) and I can also use this saw for some other tasks, like cutting sheet goods, but with some hassle.

Thanks for your comments.

Oh, I didn't think you should use the jigsaw for rip cuts, just rough downsizing. I have the FSK rails, and they are quite accurate enough, and nice and compact. It would a nice setup for construction framing, for very accurate cabinet grade cuts it might disappoint..

 

[slowtah]

Oh, I didn't think you should use the jigsaw for rip cuts, just rough downsizing. I have the FSK rails, and they are quite accurate enough, and nice and compact. It would a nice setup for construction framing, for very accurate cabinet grade cuts it might disappoint..

I don't expect very accurate cabinet cuts but I want something quite straight = as straight as possible. I don't have access to a jointer / planer, so I eventually rely on hand tools (read "handplanes") for finishing the "job". If ripping by hand was easy, I would use a rip saw on the timbers, but for me this is definitely and absolutely _not_ the case. I "feel" the wood when handplaning and it's a nice/cool/wonderful feeling, but I feel nothing but pain and efforts when ripping wood by hands. Depending on the project, I use as much hand tools as possible when working with plain wood.

 

[PreferrablyWood]

Oh, I didn't think you should use the jigsaw for rip cuts, just rough downsizing. I have the FSK rails, and they are quite accurate enough, and nice and compact. It would a nice setup for construction framing, for very accurate cabinet grade cuts it might disappoint..

I don't expect very accurate cabinet cuts but I want something quite straight = as straight as possible. I don't have access to a jointer / planer, so I eventually rely on hand tools (read "handplanes") for finishing the "job". If ripping by hand was easy, I would use a rip saw on the timbers, but for me this is definitely and absolutely _not_ the case. I "feel" the wood when handplaning and it's a nice/cool/wonderful feeling, but I feel nothing but pain and efforts when ripping wood by hands. Depending on the project, I use as much hand tools as possible when working with plain wood.

Working with hand tools is satisfying in a way that working with electric machines can never be..Good going..

 

[slowtah]

Working with hand tools is satisfying in a way that working with electric machines can never be..Good going..

Yep! But not everyone agree with that!