HL 850E application question

[WarnerConstCo.]

I have a bunch of narrow extension jambs to install, about 3/8".

I want a nice finish on these for the reveal of my casings.

I was wanting to cut the jambs to about 9/16" and plane them flush with the walls.

Is there an accessory for the 850 planer to do something like this?

Other option involves several trips, including a run through a wide belt.

 

[Ken Nagrod]

Darcy,

Would you consider using a hand chisel plane and a block plane, probably good quality ones like Lie Nielsen has or other equally as good?

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

That sounds too much like work. [big grin]

You are right, that should be what one uses but, I like electricity and dust collection.

 

[tDot]

Using the 850 for this application is an interesting idea.  I've never seen an accessory that would do exactly what you are asking for.... but now that I think about it, couldn't you use the mounting plate from the optional bevel fence (that would only work if the top of the mounting bolt is flush with the top of the plate) or you could make a UHMW plastic plate that mounts in the same hole.  Set the planer depth to the depth of your plate; then that should operate as a scribing reference that would ride along the drywall.... you could use the rabbet depth fence to control the side to side movement of the planer, and guarantee that you'd only cut the jamb extension...  I think that might work, I'll have to look at the 850 next time I'm at my shop to be sure.

Of course you'd still have to finish the top and bottom of the jamb by hand.

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

Using the 850 for this application is an interesting idea.  I've never seen an accessory that would do exactly what you are asking for.... but now that I think about it, couldn't you use the mounting plate from the optional bevel fence (that would only work if the top of the mounting bolt is flush with the top of the plate) or you could make a UHMW plastic plate that mounts in the same hole.  Set the planer depth to the depth of your plate; then that should operate as a scribing reference that would ride along the drywall.... you could use the rabbet depth fence to control the side to side movement of the planer, and guarantee that you'd only cut the jamb extension...  I think that might work, I'll have to look at the 850 next time I'm at my shop to be sure.

Of course you'd still have to finish the top and bottom of the jamb by hand.

That was my way of thinking.  These are all windows, except for one door, so that would make it pretty easy not going to the bottom.
There will be a good sized stool on the windows as well. 
Then I have to think how to attach the extensions to the window jambs, maybe some 2P-10. 

 

[Brice Burrell]

Darcy, I work with a guy that has a Elu planer that has an adjustable foot on the side for exactly what you want to do.  Of course that's not much help to you. [unsure] 

 

[james burns]

how about using a router would that not work

 

[Ken Nagrod]

The guide bearing on the router bit would follow all of the undulations in the wall's surface making it difficult to attach the jamb extensions tight to the old, unless Darcy wants to do a lot of filling - assuming I understand what he's trying to accomplish.

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

Darcy, I work with a guy that has a Elu planer that has an adjustable foot on the side for exactly what you want to do.  Of course that's not much help to you. [unsure] 

Can I get one of those here?

 

[Ken Nagrod]

I used to have a Makita 1100 planer with that kind of foot, so if that's the way you want to go and you can't get the Elu, check out some other models.

 

[Brice Burrell]

Darcy, I work with a guy that has a Elu planer that has an adjustable foot on the side for exactly what you want to do.  Of course that's not much help to you. [unsure] 

Can I get one of those here?

Not likely, that planer is going on 20 years old.  You might want to try to track down the Makita Ken mentioned.

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

The guide bearing on the router bit would follow all of the undulations in the wall's surface making it difficult to attach the jamb extensions tight to the old, unless Darcy wants to do a lot of filling - assuming I understand what he's trying to accomplish.

A router may work, but I think the results would be lack luster.

I think you may be thinking backwards on what I am needing to accomplish.

I installed all new marvin windows in a house this year.   I could not get custom jamb depths with this line of windows.
The 4 9/16" jambs left me 3/8" shy of flush with the plaster board.  I have to rip down extension jambs for 2x6" walls to fill the void.

We all know walls dont plane out the same for each window.

I am just trying to make this job a notch above the rest.

Under promise, over deliver.

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

I am going to go have a good look at the 850 and see if there is a way I can co what I want to do with it.

I hate making jigs but, I could just hire my welder to do it.

 

[Ken Nagrod]

What about the time consuming method of holding individual narrow width boards against the existing jamb, scribing them to be flush with the wall.   Planing each board and then assembling the whole jamb extension?
I've actually done that same thing you're trying to do and I've done it in this method with individual jamb extension pieces and also assembling an extension jamb, scribing, then planing it off the window jamb.

Darcy, would it be possible for you to remove the existing jambs and make your own including the tongue to fit in the windows groove, then do the scribing and planing off the window so it's just one piece of jamb without the extra step (reveal) of the extension?

 

[Dongar]

I talked to a guy I was buying some used festools from a while ago. He also had an old crane jamb saw he was trying to sell. I almost bought it but it was from before the time they had a dust pickup and he said it made quite a mess.The interesting thing was he never used it for cutting doors. He only used it for cutting window extension jambs flush with the wall. He claimed it worked great aside from shooting sawdust into his face. Maybe this would be worth getting especially if you also used it for doors.
Don

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

What about the time consuming method of holding individual narrow width boards against the existing jamb, scribing them to be flush with the wall.   Planing each board and then assembling the whole jamb extension?
I've actually done that same thing you're trying to do and I've done it in this method with individual jamb extension pieces and also assembling an extension jamb, scribing, then planing it off the window jamb.

Darcy, would it be possible for you to remove the existing jambs and make your own including the tongue to fit in the windows groove, then do the scribing and planing off the window so it's just one piece of jamb without the extra step (reveal) of the extension?

I am trying to avoid that time consuming work. [big grin]

I dont really want to take apart brand new windows, the HO may give me a funny look.

I got to do something with that stack of extension jambs.

 

[Ken Nagrod]

The other POWER TOOL that might help you out is the Porter Cable 121 hand held oscillating spindle sander with the included guide adapter.  I've used that to do things like re-shape board edges going around a bookcase to restore them to square while planing an even amount all the way around by offsetting the guide on the infeed fence to the depth of material I wanted to remove.  It acts like a handheld jointer in that regard.

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

Plus, I want this to be as clean as possible, furnished house that he lives in.

That is what drew me to the 850.

I have a small old makita hand held somewhere, I thought it came with a foot or guide of some sorts.

All I really need is a perpendicular plate off the planer, about 3-4" wide.  The wider, the better.

I could cheat the finished edge/reveal by putting a small chamfer on them to hide the saw marks.

 

[Brice Burrell]

Darcy, do you really need to scribe these?  If your casing the windows why not just taper (instead of scribe) the extensions, you can use the TS55 for that.

 

[chrisrosenb]

Darcy, do you really need to scribe these?  If your casing the windows why not just taper (instead of scribe) the extensions, you can use the TS55 for that.

I have always pre cut jamb extensions in the shop. I measure the 4 corners & lengths. In pre Festool days I free hand cut the tapers on the table saw. Now I do as Brice said & use a TS saw & guide rail. Then after installation I use a block plain to fine adjust if necessary.