HL 850E application question

[Texastutt]

I have just the Makita planer. I make a pencil line (scribe line) on the outside of the jamb so I can see it. I then set the planer to where it just bites the wood... and use it like a hand plane of old making several passes...I do nick the drywall but sheetrock 20 meant for trim carpenters... I don't know if the planer you mention is the bigger or smaller one, but I would think the smaller one would be easier to handle, but the bigger one would work.

 

[Chuck Kiser]

Darcy, do you really need to scribe these?  If your casing the windows why not just taper (instead of scribe) the extensions, you can use the TS55 for that.

I have always pre cut jamb extensions in the shop. I measure the 4 corners & lengths. In pre Festool days I free hand cut the tapers on the table saw. Now I do as Brice said & use a TS saw & guide rail. Then after installation I use a block plain to fine adjust if necessary. 

The exact method that I use. Unless the walls are very wavy from top to bottom and side to side, this method works great. Nice clean reveals, and once the casing is installed any small gaps on the outside edge are usually difficult to see. If it is paint grade they are filled and painted out. The problem with planing, as I see it, is the potential for gaps in the inner reveal where the casing meets the jam extension. YMMV

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

Darcy, do you really need to scribe these?  If your casing the windows why not just taper (instead of scribe) the extensions, you can use the TS55 for that.

The real issue is for me that the extension jambs will only be adding 3/8"+/-  to the depth of the window to bring the jambs out flush with the walls.

The extension jambs are 2" deep and I need to take it all off but 3/8", no way to cut that with my 55.

I just thought that ripping them to 1/2". gluing then up and then planning them flush to the walls seems easy.

I just really dont want to try and process those thin little strips through a table saw, then a planer or wide belt.

 

[Tinker]

Not being a carpenter, it has taken me til just now to figure out what y'all been talking about.  I was used to heavy hammers and stone chissels to make things fit when I was in construction.  If ya couldn't cut it with hammer & chissel, you just got a heavier hammer. (and maybe a Bud to lubricate the back, shoulders and arms  : )

So from a point of stupidity (on my part), wouldn't a set of parallel guides work to trim the pieces down before glue up.?
I have trimmed long pieces down to 1/2" with just a piece of wood to hold alignment.  For small stuff, I have cut to consistant width of 3/16" with ATF 55 on guide rail with a fence setup to keep the strips from flying into space.
Tinker

 

[chrisrosenb]

Darcy, do you really need to scribe these?  If your casing the windows why not just taper (instead of scribe) the extensions, you can use the TS55 for that.

The real issue is for me that the extension jambs will only be adding 3/8"+/-  to the depth of the window to bring the jambs out flush with the walls.

The extension jambs are 2" deep and I need to take it all off but 3/8", no way to cut that with my 55.

I just thought that ripping them to 1/2". gluing then up and then planning them flush to the walls seems easy.

I just really dont want to try and process those thin little strips through a table saw, then a planer or wide belt.

Darcy,

I am now very confused on what you are doing. 

 

[Holzhacker]

I usually use one of these steps to do what you are talking about.
- Take a 1x6, manageable size but large enough to work under a TS, jigsaw or table saw, butt it up against the jambs, pencil scribe the size along the wall, take out to work area, cut down to scribe line slightly positive, attach, sand slightly as needed
- Measure and rip extensions close to needed size, attach to jambs, hook vac to planer and plane to wall in place; couple notes on this technique, I use a couple #1 screws to attach the extension instead of nailing just in case I need to take it off; tape a couple formica samples along one side of the planer; the planer side with the formica samples rides along the wall without the planer eating drywall; other side takes the wood down to alignment with the wall.
- rip extensions to size, attach and sand even as needed with the DS or ETS
Hope that helps, Good luck.

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

Darcy, do you really need to scribe these?  If your casing the windows why not just taper (instead of scribe) the extensions, you can use the TS55 for that.

The real issue is for me that the extension jambs will only be adding 3/8"+/-  to the depth of the window to bring the jambs out flush with the walls.

The extension jambs are 2" deep and I need to take it all off but 3/8", no way to cut that with my 55.

I just thought that ripping them to 1/2". gluing then up and then planning them flush to the walls seems easy.

I just really dont want to try and process those thin little strips through a table saw, then a planer or wide belt.

Darcy,

I am now very confused on what you are doing. 

Sorry, the 4 9/16" jambs on the windows are 3/8" shy of flush with the plaster board.

I ordered extension jambs from Marvin that would make the windows 6 9/16" jambs.

I need about 5" jambs.  The marvin extension jambs have a wide grove that fits over a tongue on the window jambs.

Gives a little lip/reveal where the extension jamb meets the window jamb.

I just want a really nice finish on the extension jambs for stain and the reveal on my casings.

 

[Brice Burrell]

Darcy, I've very narrow jamb extensions with my TS55.  The smallest was 5/16" to 0 over 82" for a door jamb.  As long as you've got some material the same thickness to support the rail you're good. 

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

Darcy, I've very narrow jamb extensions with my TS55.  The smallest was 5/16" to 0 over 82" for a door jamb.  As long as you've got some material the same thickness to support the rail you're good. 

They are not really crooked or tapered.

I just dont really like cutting and planing and sanding small little pieces.

Just trying to make it faster and cleaner.

 

[Chuck Kiser]

Darcy, I've very narrow jamb extensions with my TS55.  The smallest was 5/16" to 0 over 82" for a door jamb.  As long as you've got some material the same thickness to support the rail you're good. 

My thought as well Brice. I routinely use multiple pieces of stock to make up the width of the rail. Once they are aligned and the rail clamped there is no movement. Just subtract the width of the blade and cut away.

 

[harry_]

Darcy,

Slap some painters tape on the plate of the planer (so the plaster is kinder to the tool) and hold it at a skew. Do the best you can, but consider the blades sacrificial. I have had to do this on one or two occasions and it wasn't horrible. Made a hell of a mess, but I wasnt running a dust collector either.

Else get a lunchbox planer if the extensions are not pre-assembled.

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

The extensions are loose, I got a giant stack of them.

I really don't want to have to own a lunchbox planer, I hate those things.

I hate running small stock through things, makes me all nervous about my fingers and such.

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

I found a picture, not the best but, will get the idea across.

Basically it is that second piece of wood on the inside of the window.

I swear there is either a lip or a groove that these jambs register into.

 

[harry_]

yes, but are they loose as pieces or pre-assembled kits? I have seen them come both ways.

If you can get them ripped close then installed, just plane them, skewed, in-place. Odds are sooner or later you will hit the plaster with the blade but they are a consumable item. I saved my blades from when I had to do it, just in case I ever have to do it again.

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

The extensions are loose, I got a giant stack of them.

I really don't want to have to own a lunchbox planer, I hate those things.

I hate running small stock through things, makes me all nervous about my fingers and such.

[cool] [big grin]

 

[harry_]

yes, but are they loose as pieces or pre-assembled kits? I have seen them come both ways.

If you can get them ripped close then installed, just plane them, skewed, in-place. Odds are sooner or later you will hit the plaster with the blade but they are a consumable item. I saved my blades from when I had to do it, just in case I ever have to do it again.

[poke] [tongue]

 

[chrisrosenb]

I understand now.

I have had to trim jamb extensions in place, not by choice. I trimmed out a new home. The builder ordered the jamb extensions attached & to wide.
The builder told the owner after the drywall was hung that trimming the jamb extensions was part of the trim guys job.
 
To put it mildly. I would rather clean out a septic tank from the inside then to trim down a house full of jamb extensions in place.

 

[Texastutt]

yes, but are they loose as pieces or pre-assembled kits? I have seen them come both ways.

If you can get them ripped close then installed, just plane them, skewed, in-place. Odds are sooner or later you will hit the plaster with the blade but they are a consumable item. I saved my blades from when I had to do it, just in case I ever have to do it again.

You and I are talking the same thing but Makita has Carbide blades (actually mine are not Makatias any more), Hence my Sheetrock 20 to patch the plaster. but now he's saying the extensions are loose.

Darcey I'm not sure why you don't like "lunchbox" planers (if they are the portable planers from the yellow and blue-green guys). I think your making this harder than it is?

 

[harry_]

I had little concern for the plaster as I was covering it with casing. It's not like the sheetrock 'damage' is massive anyhow.

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

yes, but are they loose as pieces or pre-assembled kits? I have seen them come both ways.

If you can get them ripped close then installed, just plane them, skewed, in-place. Odds are sooner or later you will hit the plaster with the blade but they are a consumable item. I saved my blades from when I had to do it, just in case I ever have to do it again.

You and I are talking the same thing but Makita has Carbide blades (actually mine are not Makatias any more), Hence my Sheetrock 20 to patch the plaster. but now he's saying the extensions are loose.

Darcey I'm not sure why you don't like "lunchbox" planers (if they are the portable planers from the yellow and blue-green guys). I think your making this harder than it is?

I probably am over thinking it. [embarassed]

I don't own a lunch box planer.  I am looking for a big old stationary at this time, up to a 24".  I really don't want to spend $$ on a lunchbox, if this can be done with the 850.  I think I could get way more use out of the 850 then a lunchbox planer.

I do have a little makita hand held planer now though.  

I guess the big consideration for me is dust control.

Harry- It's just 3/8" plaster board, you know the small sheets they would put a skim over.  Not to hard on a blade, that is also why I think a nice foot or outrigger would be perfect.