Home made Sysports

Wood_Junkie said:
I figure any lookie-loo scumbags wanting some spendy tools will need about 15 minutes with a crowbar, with the alarm going off… which is plenty of time to get my other ‘special metric’ (hint:  9mm) tools from a more at-hand location.
 

While I generally prefer the metric system, there are times that the imperial system are more appropriate in my circumstances, and I have a decided preference for the Imperial Rule of 4s - Any caliber is fine with me, so long as it begins with a 4 (.40 S&W, .45 ACP, .44 Magnum). 

Nice job on the Sys-Condos. 

[big grin] 
 
Just a small follow-up to the posting above.

I really have liked the dowels for positioning and securing Systainers on a sliding shelf.  The 1/4" dowels are just the perfect size.

However, I noticed a difference between the "Classic" systainers and T-locs.
Whereas the Classic had a reasonable loose fit, where you could just sort of set them in there and it'd find its position, the T-locs are a TIGHT fit on the dowels.

Comparison pics.

Classic Systainer.  About 1/8" of total play between the tabs.

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T-Loc:
Zero play between the tabs.  It is a mild friction-fit.

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I guess the more important revelation about this difference is that the positioning of the dowels has to be very precise for T-locs.  There was some allowable slop with the Classics.
 
Finished my Sysport last night.  The top and bottom are 3/4 ply, the sides are 3/4 MDF and the back is 1/8" peg board.  The pullout shelves are just open bottom trays for the systainers to sit in.  The guide rails are held to the back with peg board hooks and a bungie.  The slides are K&V full extension, self closing, so they stay shut. 
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I need a couple more tools to fill the remaining space !!!

 
sl_1800 said:
Finished my Sysport last night.  The top and bottom are 3/4 ply, the sides are 3/4 MDF and the back is 1/8" peg board.  The pullout shelves are just open bottom trays for the systainers to sit in.  The guide rails are held to the back with peg board hooks and a bungie.  The slides are K&V full extension, self closing, so they stay shut. 

I need a couple more tools to fill the remaining space !!!

Love the MNML approach.

Why different type sides (MDF) and top (ply)?
 
I made it from just crap lumber so that is what I had on hand that would get the job done.
 
sl_1800 said:
I made it from just crap lumber so that is what I had on hand that would get the job done.

What (if any) type of fillers did you use on the mdf and ply prior to painting? Top coat?
 
Primed it with Sherwin Williams ProMar 400 primer, two coats on the mdf edges and one on the rest.  Put the primer and paint on with a roller.
 
I have found an almost prefect paint match to the latches on a systainer while searching for a paint for all the interior trim in my house   [eek]:  Manufacturer:  Benjamin Moore     Color:  Sweet Pea

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Note:  Any color difference in the image is due to reflectivity.

Peter

 
Peter Halle said:
I have found an almost prefect paint match to the latches on a systainer while searching for a paint for all the interior trim in my house   [eek]:  Manufacturer:  Benjamin Moore     Color:  Sweet Pea

Awesome, I had planned on getting the local H-D to put a latch under their computer matcher, but this saves me the trouble!
 
Peter Halle said:
I have found an almost prefect paint match to the latches on a systainer while searching for a paint for all the interior trim in my house  

So, you're painting all the trim in your house to match your Systainer latches??  Does Mrs. Halle know of this plan????
 
fritter63 said:
Peter Halle said:
I have found an almost prefect paint match to the latches on a systainer while searching for a paint for all the interior trim in my house   [eek]:  Manufacturer:  Benjamin Moore     Color:  Sweet Pea

Awesome, I had planned on getting the local H-D to put a latch under their computer matcher, but this saves me the trouble!

I had tried HD colour match for both the grey and the green, and was not satisfied with their selection also.  Went to Ben Moore and the Sweet Pea 2031-30 was the match, but was selected via their very expert gal there, and the grey was HC-170 Brushed Silver, or AKA Stonington Gray.  Have not done my painting yet though, but the painted samples after mixing seem pretty bang on.

 
All,

I'm wondering if the 14" slides are going to be enough to open tops. For those of you that have built one, are the 14" slides sufficient?
 
adamdc said:
All,

I'm wondering if the 14" slides are going to be enough to open tops. For those of you that have built one, are the 14" slides sufficient?

Yup, absolutely! Just finished mine this week and 14" is perfect.

Just waiting for casters and paint, then I'll post pics in a new thread.
 
I'll make it three. 14" are plenty. In fact anything longer would be just wasted space in your cabinet/sysport.
 
OK, I just finished reading this thread and want to see MORE! Does anybody have any that haven't been posted here yet?

PUULLEEAAASSEE?
 
Paul Franklin said:
Dave

The casters I actually got from ebay, I have a spare set somewhere, I will dig them out and get you the information. The trays are adjustable, I used the Festool 32mm system (LR32sys) it is a great product.
The slides are full extension slides that I go from Gliderite (www.gliderite.com) but Westlund has them also.

Regards

Paul

Would like to build my own Sysports with adjustable shelving using the LR32 system. How would you attach the slides to make them adjustable?

Thanks.
 
Francisco DelValle said:
Paul Franklin said:
Dave

The casters I actually got from ebay, I have a spare set somewhere, I will dig them out and get you the information. The trays are adjustable, I used the Festool 32mm system (LR32sys) it is a great product.
The slides are full extension slides that I go from Gliderite (www.gliderite.com) but Westlund has them also.

Regards

Paul

Would like to build my own Sysports with adjustable shelving using the LR32 system. How would you attach the slides to make them adjustable?

Thanks.

You would use a LR32 (or similar) to drill the slide mounting holes. Then you still attach those to the sides with screws. Then when you need to adjust, you move them up or down and reattach with screws. Think ikea furniture.
 
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