Mike_Chrest
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Steve,
It's a great idea!
Mike
It's a great idea!
Mike
Homemade Systainer and Basis System
- Thread starter Steve Jones
- Start date
Matthew Schenker
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Everybody,
Here's an idea: I'll split this topic off starting at post #16 and put it in a new discussion in the "Jigs, Inventions, Tool Enhancements" board.
Matthew
Here's an idea: I'll split this topic off starting at post #16 and put it in a new discussion in the "Jigs, Inventions, Tool Enhancements" board.
Matthew
Matthew Schenker
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Dan,
OK, here it is. I gave it the name "Homemade Basis System." But Steve can tell me any other name he wants for it.
Matthew
OK, here it is. I gave it the name "Homemade Basis System." But Steve can tell me any other name he wants for it.
Matthew
Great idea guys! In the last year I've downsized from a Suburban to a PT Cruiser for my "work" car. This has caused me to think, and re-think space and weight efficiencies for kitchen installs. (One of the reasons I was drawn to Festool.) I'm already on my 3rd "proto-type" tool box system. I'm certainly looking forward to this thread, Steve's already stretched the toolbox model much farther than I ever could have on my own.
Thanks Steve!!
Dan
Thanks Steve!!
Dan
Steve Jones
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Finally got around to taking some pictures...
First pic is the locking casters (from woodcraft, but I think you can buy them all over) Make sure to get the kind that lock the casters and the swivel.
Second is the latches I use, They came from H/D, I like the fact that they have a little tab that keeps eveything lined up.
Third picture in this post is the end of a corner joint (hopefully, this will explain the text description in an earlier post) These joints are simple to make and very strong (and only take one setup. I use a radial arm saw for dados (in fact I leave the dado blade in it all the time) but you could set up a tablesaw the same way (once for all the joints on the boxes)
Setup is 1/2" wide dado, 3/8" from the fence, and 1/4" deep (the 1/2" wide is actually to hold 1/2" ply which isn't 1/2", but you know what I mean)
Sides are dadoed into the ends, then ends of the sides are covered with 3/4" stock finished off with a strip of 3/4" cut to 1/2" wide this makes the frame at the ends level with the inside of the sides to facilitate mounting the drawers (I mount the slides before assembling the box).
In the case of this box (a simple, single drawer box) I run thin dados for top and bottom panels by running the sides twice over the tablesaw (moving the fence enough to make the slot 1/4" wide).
Hope this makes sense, more to follow...
First pic is the locking casters (from woodcraft, but I think you can buy them all over) Make sure to get the kind that lock the casters and the swivel.
Second is the latches I use, They came from H/D, I like the fact that they have a little tab that keeps eveything lined up.
Third picture in this post is the end of a corner joint (hopefully, this will explain the text description in an earlier post) These joints are simple to make and very strong (and only take one setup. I use a radial arm saw for dados (in fact I leave the dado blade in it all the time) but you could set up a tablesaw the same way (once for all the joints on the boxes)
Setup is 1/2" wide dado, 3/8" from the fence, and 1/4" deep (the 1/2" wide is actually to hold 1/2" ply which isn't 1/2", but you know what I mean)
Sides are dadoed into the ends, then ends of the sides are covered with 3/4" stock finished off with a strip of 3/4" cut to 1/2" wide this makes the frame at the ends level with the inside of the sides to facilitate mounting the drawers (I mount the slides before assembling the box).
In the case of this box (a simple, single drawer box) I run thin dados for top and bottom panels by running the sides twice over the tablesaw (moving the fence enough to make the slot 1/4" wide).
Hope this makes sense, more to follow...
Steve Jones
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First picture here shows the front frame for the drawer boxes. I cut one end slightly taller than need, dado the ends as normal, then cut two 1" strips from top and bottom to make top and bottom frames....
Then cut two 7/8" strips from the ends of the scrap and cut them to length to fit (this last cut makes two "L" shaped pieces to fill in behind the solid wood frames.
Next two pics show the home made handles, these are fitted to the ends of each box 1" down from top edge (which lines up with top edge of drawer, so handles are the same. gives me handles for opening the drawers and carrying individual boxes at the same time (neat, huh?) and they cost me only the bits of scrap left after cutting dow 3/4" solid boards. (everything not wide enough for 2" cabinet frames gets kept for my own handles)
(Glued and screwed in place with 3/4" Kreg screws)
Third pic shows end profile of a handle, I run them over the router table with a radius bit to make a finger groove in the underside.
Then cut two 7/8" strips from the ends of the scrap and cut them to length to fit (this last cut makes two "L" shaped pieces to fill in behind the solid wood frames.
Next two pics show the home made handles, these are fitted to the ends of each box 1" down from top edge (which lines up with top edge of drawer, so handles are the same. gives me handles for opening the drawers and carrying individual boxes at the same time (neat, huh?) and they cost me only the bits of scrap left after cutting dow 3/4" solid boards. (everything not wide enough for 2" cabinet frames gets kept for my own handles)
(Glued and screwed in place with 3/4" Kreg screws)
Third pic shows end profile of a handle, I run them over the router table with a radius bit to make a finger groove in the underside.
Steve,
How much do you think each module weighs. Full or empty. Not exact, Just kinda-sorta. Weight is a big issue for me. I've been playing with 1/4" ply, secured with epoxy. (almost like a stitch and glue boat)
I know, Mr. Clark, PICS! I'll work on it this weekend! I just bought a digital cam. because of this site. I should thank you now for dragging me into the 20th century. (I'm not ready for 21st yet)
Dan
How much do you think each module weighs. Full or empty. Not exact, Just kinda-sorta. Weight is a big issue for me. I've been playing with 1/4" ply, secured with epoxy. (almost like a stitch and glue boat)
I know, Mr. Clark, PICS! I'll work on it this weekend! I just bought a digital cam. because of this site. I should thank you now for dragging me into the 20th century. (I'm not ready for 21st yet)
Dan
Steve Jones
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Next pic is a new Kreg joint table and router storage box (since there is lots of space left after the jig is installed, and the router accessories needa lot of space)
Boxes with removable tops (like this one) get moved to the top of the stack when in use, The tops allow access to the relevant tool (Boxes like this one hold the kreg jig (pictured) and Router table/Tablesaw/Jig saw)
Each box gets a frame (3/4" down from top) around the inside of the top (same saved scrap from 3/4" material used for the handles) to suport the 3/4 top.
The first version of the boxes, I simply made dividers and holders for the tools and glued them into the boxes, (It looks a little fussy maybe, but if I don't have a place for eveything, something ends up not being put away, this way i can see at a glance before closing the box or drawer if something is missing)
This time around (I learn from experience) I mounted all the storage bins to spare 1/4" panels which drop into the box (now when I change tools I can simply make new inserts).
The next two pictures show completed inserts ready to drop into boxes.
Boxes with removable tops (like this one) get moved to the top of the stack when in use, The tops allow access to the relevant tool (Boxes like this one hold the kreg jig (pictured) and Router table/Tablesaw/Jig saw)
Each box gets a frame (3/4" down from top) around the inside of the top (same saved scrap from 3/4" material used for the handles) to suport the 3/4 top.
The first version of the boxes, I simply made dividers and holders for the tools and glued them into the boxes, (It looks a little fussy maybe, but if I don't have a place for eveything, something ends up not being put away, this way i can see at a glance before closing the box or drawer if something is missing)
This time around (I learn from experience) I mounted all the storage bins to spare 1/4" panels which drop into the box (now when I change tools I can simply make new inserts).
The next two pictures show completed inserts ready to drop into boxes.
Steve Jones
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Dan , in answer to your question - I don't have a set of scales here, but as close as I can tell, the kreg box with inserts pictured here is about the same weight as the Bosch router (pictured later) that's going to live in it (I know someone here will look up the weight of that router and post it). Reason I went with 1/2" (yes, i was tempted to use 1/4" too) is because I'd be boosting up the thickness in so many places for framing (to support tops with tools mounted, drawer slides and sides, etc. One of these days, I'll make a prototype from 1/4" but don't know that I'll save much weight, it's one of my "back burner" projects stewing somewhere in the back of what's left of my mind.
Anyway, back to the ongoing saga....
Where was I?... Oh yeah, inserts (pic one and two), are them going into the box (am I doing too many pictures?), I just have an idea that anything I don't detail, someone's going to ask for more, so I'm overdoing it deliberately.
Anyway, back to the ongoing saga....
Where was I?... Oh yeah, inserts (pic one and two), are them going into the box (am I doing too many pictures?), I just have an idea that anything I don't detail, someone's going to ask for more, so I'm overdoing it deliberately.
Steve Jones
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And, one with all the stuff in place
Steve Jones
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Pic one, the top in place (with Kreg jig screwed to the top plate)
Pic two, flipping the top (notice the kreg jig still fits nestled nicely in with everything mounted in place)
Pic three, to other side of the top, with the small Kreg plate for making joints on site (The clamp lives inside the box, can be seen on the left in earlier pictures)
Pic two, flipping the top (notice the kreg jig still fits nestled nicely in with everything mounted in place)
Pic three, to other side of the top, with the small Kreg plate for making joints on site (The clamp lives inside the box, can be seen on the left in earlier pictures)
Frank Pellow
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Thanks a lot Steve! I am very interested in this and I expect that I will experiment with at least a couple of boxes based upon yours.
Steve Jones
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Thanks for the kind words, frank, more pics will follow, my digital camera is exhausted and the battery is charging as we speak.
For eveyone interested, I've taken to buying my 1/2" plywood in the 5' x 5' size since I can still get the good stuff in this size, the other advantage is that I can build a complete stack of cabinets from one sheet.
For eveyone interested, I've taken to buying my 1/2" plywood in the 5' x 5' size since I can still get the good stuff in this size, the other advantage is that I can build a complete stack of cabinets from one sheet.
Frank Pellow
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Are you refering to 12 milimetre Baltic Birch?Steve Jones said:
Steve Jones
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Frank, yes, it's actually 12mm i was trying to avoid using metric and imperial mixed sizes, and since I started specifying imperial for sizes above...
ned, 3/8 ply would probably be better (should be a weight saving of about 25%) haven't seen it around my usual suppliers, I'll look for some next time I'm doing my rounds.
ned, 3/8 ply would probably be better (should be a weight saving of about 25%) haven't seen it around my usual suppliers, I'll look for some next time I'm doing my rounds.
Steve Jones said:
I appreciate not mixing systems, but when we're talking about something like plywood, the size is kind of like the name of the stuff.
All the stuff sold as 3/8 plywood I've seen has been construction-grade. It's probably 9mm anyway. 9.5mm is a true 3/8", and plywood's usually undersized.
The good stuff seems to be called 9mm.
Ned
Frank Pellow
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A big aspect of Steve's design is the interconnected storage boxes and these are valuable even if one does not opt for the upside down saw mounting jigs. In order to reflect this, I suggest that the thread title should be changed to "Homemade Systainer and Basis System."Matthew Schenker said:
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