Hose tangle on a MIDI

[amodernistman]

Hi everyone,

First post, so first of all thanks so much for all the advice and tips I've had so far.

I'd love to know if anyone has any advice for on site hose holding while using the MIDI extractor. Specifically while using the TS 55 rail saw. I will eventually upgrade to a higher end extractor which which will allow for a boom arm but in the mean time what do you guys do to stop the hose getting caught on the edges of your work/end of the rail?

I know the rail deflector is probably my first port of call.

Cheers

Greg

 

[SMJoinery]

Hi Greg

Welcome to the FOG [welcome]

I know exactly what you mean with the hose and I found it's even worse when using the rails with a router.
I tried the old "hose over the shoulder" technique and putting the midi up on the bench beside the workpiece 
The best thing I've found for me is to lightly stretch a cord or bungy cord between two points and then drop the hose and cable (I have mine velcro'd together) over the bungy. It slides over great and cause it's flexible it goes up and down a bit so never feels heavy.
I've found it best just above head height and nearer the side of the bench where you work. Keep the midi under the bench with controls facing front and the hose coming out the groove on the lid. Down there it's also a great rest for the saw between cuts.
I've attached a photo where you can see the bungy.
NB. Some people won't like this idea as they feel a cord with metal ends could snap under strain and hit you.

 

[amodernistman]

That's a fantastic idea, thanks for sharing it! I will definitely have scenarios where that would work, particularly if I'm at the workshop or in one position for the day. The trouble I have is mainly on site, where I'm often moving all over the place or in a space without walls or a ceiling I could attach a bungy to. I really need a boom arm don't I...

 

[SMJoinery]

Yeah I have the same issues. We are probably 50/50 workshop stuff and then out on installs (all domestic).
I haven't tried one of the rail caps but now and again we have used a small piece of foam pipe insulation on the end of the track which allows the hose to slide over great.
My only other option is to get an apprentice. I have one who keeps the hoses suspended for me.  [big grin]

 

[sicd_steve]

You would at the very least need a rail deflector, I also recommend some Velcro straps to hold the power cord to the vac hose it keeps it more neater and least it's easier than dealing with a hose and power cord seperate, also when I have them Velcrode  say every 300-400mm intervals, I throw the hose and lead over my left shoulder that way the lead is coming downward rather than from the ground coming upward. I know you can buy a Festool vac hose ring/ stand that you can attach to some vacs to keep the hose more higher. The Velcro is the go by keeping it more manageable.

 

[sicd_steve]

Ops by the time I wrote mine Sm joinery answered pretty much like I do it....oh well

 

[sicd_steve]

However in the shop I have a ceiling truss in pipe and I hook over the 2 hooks on the pipe allowing for the bungy cord loop to drape I then thread the vac hose and power cord through the loop and the bungy cord hooks slide along the rail bringing the hose with it. It's safer too as the bungy cord is not under tension.

 

[amodernistman]

Thanks SMJoinery, thanks Steve. I'll definitely try the velcro, and I will definitely keep my apprentice nearby!

 

[Nippychippy]

This is my solution its cable sleving called narex in festool green hopefully you can see my setup in the photo with the cable along side the hose it doesn't catch

Oh and I forgot to say I have the deflector and if your cutting sheet goods like ply at 1220 with 1400 rail it gets in the way  you will have to move your rail twice it's such a bad design the deflector I wound t bother buying it I used it once

 

[amodernistman]

Thanks Nippychippy this looks ideal. I'll definitely check it out. Also thanks for the deflector tip - a lot of my work is sheet rips just as you said.

Greg